Disclaimer : This Pendour article may contain affiliate links. This means Pendour may earn a commission should you chose to sign up for a program or make a purchase using our links, with no extra cost to you. We love the companies featured on Pendour Living and are sure you will too!
LOVE YOUR LAUNDRY
Laundry seems to be a given in life. No matter how conscientious we may be, stains, frays and accidents regularly occur! So, to avoid adding laundry to your long list of ‘chores’ or ‘housework’, we’re pleased to have found the Clothes Doctor to put Love back into Laundry.
The Clothes Doctor offers a welcome alternative to feeling overwhelmed and overcome with the garment monster lurking in the basket. Find solace in the soak, the suds and the spin. It seems so much more constructive to embrace the process of caring for your clothes, revelling in the fresh scent of revitalised knits, polished lacy numbers and buttery smooth sportswear, rather than fighting what can be a pleasurable part of daily existence.
Clothes Doctor is your laundry saviour, elevating a once monotonous task to the realms of the glamorous and the chic. Their dedicated range of detergents and spray mists airlift your senses to the likes of Sicily, Provence, alpine hideaways or even a Silk Road setting. Further nifty products make caring for your clothes all the easier, banishing those tell-tale pills of wear and pro-longing the lifespan of your favourites. All this to keep you looking and feeling good so you don’t have to buy more to squeeze into your choc-a-bloc wardrobe!
Unlike conventional laundry detergents which blend polluting and dubious ingredients in plastic pods and jugs – ultimately damaging our waterways and seas – Clothes Doctor strives for sustainability. A small UK business integrating only eco-friendly ingredients, Clothes Doctor helps ensure that your wash is not a wash out for the planet.
So let’s get to it, bring on the scented suds and soaking saviours!
ORDER & DELIVERY
I first found Clothes Doctor when searching for a special detergent to wash my shimmering pillowcases and eye mask from The Silk Collection. Used everyday, these items require regular washing to keep them top notch, especially as they can become a little discoloured from oils and face creams applied at bedtime.
Impressed by the Clothes Doctor’s website and sustainable credentials, I spotted exactly what I was looking for, a PH neutral detergent to maintain the delicate lustre of silk without potential allergens or toxic additives, all packaged without excessive plastic.
There is a minimum spend of £45 for free delivery. This may sound like a lot but it’s quick to get your basket up to this threshold… yes, the products are rather on the pricey side compared to supermarket standards. But this is what it costs to develop and manufacture wonderful products with the power to transform ‘doing a wash’ to prescribing just what the Doctor ordered!
Credit : The Clothes Doctor
Since my first purchase, Clothes Doctor have introduced an Everyday range, working out at just 30p a wash! Although these detergents and fabric conditioners are not specialised for particular clothing requirements, they are highly concentrated and have a lower price on subscription. Refillable glass bottles with metal nozzles mean there’s less spill and wastage once you’ve added some water. Delivered to your door, the Basil and Mandarin scent sounds as though doing the laundry will be a form of aromatherapy from now on!
PACKAGING
The products arrived in a cardboard box surrounded by noodles or nuggets. These completely dissolve when wet. The noodles reduce the need for polluting polystyrene or plastic-based packaging whilst offering the same amount of protection from bumps and jumps as the products work their way to save my silks!
Upon opening the box, I realised that the bottles of detergent were also wrapped in tubes of textured cardboard. Hugging the products tightly, they protect the delicate folds of the aluminium bottles near the base and follow the curve of the slightly tapered top. One of the aluminium bottles had received a bit of a dent on its merry way, but thanks to this cardboard sleeve the magical liquid remained intact!
The cardboard casings and a slight dent in one of the products.
All of the products – the Silk & Delicate detergent; the Knitwear Mist and Eco Liquid Baby Detergent – are packaged in rather cool-looking aluminium bottles. Endlessly recyclable and far more valuable than recycled plastic, aluminium replaces those toxic pods which leach chemicals into your skin as you handle them – and your clothes. The use of aluminium also reduces the need for giant plastic jugs of laundry detergents which either end up in landfill, the UK’s waterways or are shipped and burned in Asia!
Only the cap is made of plastic. Whilst these are great for measuring out just the correct amount of detergent, it would be wonderful if an alternative could be sourced, such as cork or another plastic-free stopper. Let’s hope the Clothes Doctor can find a way forward so we can entirely pass on plastic.
SLEEK N' SEXY
Not just better for the environment, the sleek and modern-looking aluminium bottles are also an upgrade for your home! Far more visually sophisticated than the giant plastic jugs with built-in handles, or goofy looking plastic tubs of pods, these products make classy additions to any kitchen or laundry room shelf!
The label design is clean and eye-catching and they’ve used some rather trendy symbolism, almost like ancient runes which continue onto the pattern of the scented drawer liners! This is a good move and matches Clothes Doctor’s commitment to sustainability and the idea of caring for and repairing our clothes, which of course dates back to our earliest history.
In addition to detailed instructions, the labelling also offers little rhymes and reveries, linking your laundry to the destination which inspired its scent! This is sure to add a smile and a little charm to loading your machine or agitating that bowl (for the second – no wait – THIRD time today, what mucky pups!).
CRAFTED IN CORNWALL
Upon closer inspection of these products I was amazed to realise that although Clothes Doctor is a London-based company, their products are manufactured in Cornwall! The land of our namesake and raison d’être, you’ll also find that the Clothes Doctor will make a special appearance on our Crafted In Cornwall post, coming soon!
IRRESISTIBLE INGREDIENTS
Clothes Doctor prides itself on using essential oils in their detergents and clothing mists. These are carefully selected to enhance the natural beauty and properties of fabrics such as cotton, wool and cashmere whilst reducing creases and offering protection from months. Natural oils such as lavender, cherry, bergamot and sandalwood are combined with slightly more surprising ones like cardamom and clove leaf oil. Blissfully combined, these crafted scents blend into a fragrant bouquet of pure intoxication!
Whilst industrially produced detergents often contain skin-irritating chemicals, the Clothes Doctor offers an opportunity to treat your skin, nose and clothes to the thrill of Nature’s pure aromas.
Years of testing, refinement and research has resulted in a range of products which care for what we already own. Over washing our clothes can lead to premature ageing of the fabric and the need to replace them too soon. The Clothes Doctor’s process of careful and considered development has resulted in a range of highly concentrated and super effective detergents and mists. A little goes a long way! Instead of harsh surfactants and sulphides, which damage both our clothes and waterways every time we load our machines, Clothes Doctor’s selected essential oils ensure a more natural approach.
Every formula offered by The Clothes Doctor is ingenuously mixed to gently clean without damaging fibres. This promotes that ‘nearly new’ feeling, maintaining the shape and colour of your cosy jumpers, poolside dresses and business shirts. The spritz and scented drawer liners also keep your clothes fresh between wearing so there is less need to wash certain items so regularly! A revolutionary idea: products that are designed to care for clothes, and not just clean them!
Each product is 100% vegan and cruelty free and the full list of ingredients can be found on the specification for each product.
A FIGHT AGAINST FAST FASHION
The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of all carbon emissions, more than that of aviation and maritime shipping combined! And to top this off, one truckload of clothes is discarded every second…. What an inefficient system!
Extending the life of our garments by nine months can reduce their footprint by a surprising 30%. This is where Clothes Doctor helps ensure that products are cared for and looked after, maximising the times you can wear that gorgeous blouse and one-of a kind jacket you picked out on your last travel adventure!
Have a special something requiring a repair? In need of new zips, buttons, patches and more? The Clothes Doctor have developed a network of clothes-caring seamstresses looking forward to putting some TLC back into your well-worn looks. Simply request a quote online and pop your clothing in the post and Clothes Doctor will take care of the rest! Repairs are expected to take 7-10 working days depending on the nature of what is required.
SEASONAL SCENT & PROTECT
Credit : Clothes Doctor
Clothes Doctor have recently introduced a quarterly subscription service. Every three months their subscribers – or patients! – receive a limited edition box of detergents, moth repellents and other accessories carefully curated to suit the season! Tuck away your chunky knits and warmers in the Spring with a spritz of Cedarwood and Vanilla Knitwear mist to protect against over zealous moths until the Autumn. Squirt some crease release over your chinos or favourite linen trousers as part of their Summer Edition collection. Await your Winter box, featuring another scentalicious range of goodies to preserve and protect your favourite looks. Alter and adjust to suit your style!
SPECIAL DISCOUNTS
Clothes Doctor also offers a range of exclusive offers :
NHS Discount
Senior Discount
Teacher Discount
Maternity Discount
So that those uniforms and ‘off-duty’ outfits can work as hard as you do!
Simply register on their website to secure your well deserved discount, just as the Doctor ordered!
(Of course we’re looking out for The Cultural Worker’s Discount to relieve our paint-splattered, mud covered, dust coated, loose fitting creative dress code! 😀 )
RETURN & REUSE
Clothes Doctor offer a 20% discount for returning their empty aluminium bottles. These can be mailed free of charge. For every 1 – 4 parts returned to the Clothes Doctor’s ‘surgery’ you can receive 15% off your next order, or 20% off for returning five or more empties. There is no limit to the number you can send back in one go, but to help improve efficiency, the Clothes Doctor encourages customers to collect at least five parts before sending back.
Although this information is relatively easy to find on the website, it would be helpful for customers to have these instructions on their order confirmation email, or a little message included with their Clothes Doctor products. Afterall, who doesn’t like to be rewarded for helping to reduce waste and embracing more sustainable practices!
A SOAPY SUCCESS?
So how well do the products I purchased from The Clothes Doctor scrub up?
Overall, the two detergents and Knitwear mist seem to cleanse and freshen effectively. I’ve also noticed a newfound super-smooth texture when retrieving my clothing from the washing machine, as though the fabrics have been magically purified and conditioned! This must be thanks to the essential oils which push back the clock on your style to that ‘nearly new’ phase!
SAVE YOUR SILKS
A silk eye mask from The Silk Collection
The Silk and delicates detergent boats a blossoming scent of sandalwood and bergamot. This eco-friendly detergent has a neutral pH to preserve the delicate fibres of silk fabric.
I went for the larger bottle, as I have rather a lot of silk – some from the bazaars in Pushkar – needing some TLC! This larger size has apparently been discontinued due to the plastic cap of the bottle cracking during transit, but the smaller quantities are ideal for travelling, whether in Tulum or Italy, especially if you don’t go anywhere without some goodies from The Silk Collection!
I found that the Silk & Delicates detergent successfully lifted oil and grime from my eye mask and mulberry silk pillowcase. I sometimes do a ‘double soak’ to remove discolouration. It’s an extra bonus to drift off to sleep breathing in the delicate scent of sandalwood and bergamot!
This product also freshened up some silk from my time in India, which was certainly in need of a good cleanse. The Clothes’ Doctor Silk & Delicate Detergent really works to enliven the lustre of silk and prolong its luxe appeal!
Note : Since first trying out this detergent, the formula has been updated and renamed as Liquid Detergent for Knitwear and Delicates though the fabulous scent still stands true!
PENDOUR PRO-TIP
If you are handwashing your silks and delicates, or treating a stain by soaking, you can keep the water (if it’s not too dirty!). Grab a reusable cloth and wipe down your surfaces or even hard floors. Although not designed for cleaning or sanitisation, the scent of this Sandalwood & Bergamot detergent is too good for the drain – you’ll have your home smelling like a bouquet of nature’s most prized for full on olfactory bliss. You’ll also save on artificial fragrances in the forms of scented candles and air fresheners!
your KNITWEAR KNIGHT
In the video above you can watch as I spray the Lavender & Thyme Knitwear mist on one of my favourite jumpers, a cashmere high-neck from Sezane!
Beautiful weather prompted me to pack away my winter wardrobe a little earlier than usual – though a longer time in storage of course mans more potential damage from moths!
So is this spray mist a knight in shining armour for your favourite knits?!
Yes, it’s been a hit!
Upon application the mist smells absolutely divine; the lavender and thyme transport you to the Mediterranean. See the fields of luminous blue lavender basking in the sun in your mind’s eye, as the fragrance of earthy thyme offsets the sweetness. The mist lands subtly on the fabric. . . . I must admit, I was a tiny bit concerned about discolouration, but if anything, the mist actually enhanced the mustard yellow shade of the top! The spray is pure and not too diluted by water – the cashmere did not get too damp and instead felt soft and fresh to the touch.
When taking my cashmere out of Summer storage I was both relieved and impressed to see that the lavender and thyme worked really well as a moth repellent! No holes at all, despite living next to quite a large forest where moths are a familiar sight. Spraying the mist regularly in the clothing cupboards has been highly effective.
However, it seems that the spray mechanism was not quite up to the job and I did have to transfer the beautifully scented solution to an alternative spray bottle. Perhaps this detail can be improved?
Not only a knight in scented splendour – armour strong against those pesky moths – the Knitwear Mist is a soak and scrub saviour, helping to reduce the need for regular washing. The essential oils seem to refresh the fabric, conditioning and rejuvenating the cashmere filaments. I think this jumper will last many years now thanks to the Clothes Doctor!
BEYOND BABY
The Eco Liquid Baby Detergent is specially formulated for sensitive skin. As this product was a free gift from the Clothes Doctor, I gave it to one of my best friends who recently had a baby. Apparently it cleans like a dream!! The cherry scent is nice and sensory, just right to leave all of Baby’s belongings sweetly scented and softened, ready to be put through their paces once again.
This detergent also turns out to be another one for scenting more than just what is says on the bottle! My friend loved the essence so much that she admitted to using it for her own bedding (sorry Baby!), sheets drying on the clothes horse as cherry tones waft throughout her home. The cherry scent is evocative of Springtime in Japan – you can just picture the delicate pink cherry blossoms! A moment and a place, captured in a bottle. This detergent is a perfect touch of luxury for any baby – and beyond!
JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED
In conclusion, we are pleased to support The Clothes Doctor in their commitment to the environment by caring for the clothes we already have! Beautifully scented products in streamlined aluminium bottles not only cleanse but protect your treasured favourites. Although a little more expensive than the usual supermarket detergent brands, which strip fibres and can damage clothing over time, the Clothes Doctor offers far superior products helping to prolong the life of your styled attire, meaning you spend less in the long run.
Generous discounts and a closed loop system show that Clothes Doctor really are opting for progress rather than profits!
And those pesky moths? So far the deterrent mists have been the only products that truly work!
The option to send in your beloved items to be repaired and revitalised is also a refreshing approach to reducing waste.
Overall, we’re so pleased to have discovered Clothes Doctor and if you’ve already purchased from them we’d love to hear about your experience in the comments.
We can’t wait to see how the Clothes Doctor will enable you to Love your Laundry like never before!
The Synopsis ‘Architecture of Silence’ by Linda Bell explains some of the inspirations behind Steve Joy’s exhibition of abstract paintings.
Steve’s exhibition was presented by Lynch Eisinger Design Architects (LED) and Amy Barkow and installed in the Architects’ studio on Grand Street, New York City.
The opening event was held on Friday 7th November 2025 to a contemplative and engaged audience. The artist Steve Joy gave a short speech and Linda Bell’s Exhibition Synopsis was available for audience members to read.
A few photographs from the Opening Reception.
Coming Soon – A Catalogue of photographs of Steve’s paintings will soon be available to purchase in our online Shop, The Pendour Parlour! Linda Bell’s Exhibition Synopsis will accompany the images. Proceeds from every sale go to the artist and writer – our way of giving back and supporting the makers of culture today.
A few photographs from the opening event.
EXHIBITION SYNOPSIS : 'aRCHITECTURE OF SILENCE'
Hush –
and hear
the Architecture
of Silence:
a sigh
that echoes
across the Ages.
The timeless light of Byzantium gold finds contemporary awakening in Steve Joy’s structured paintings. His luminous, signature glow draws influence from the materiality of Medieval icon paintings – surfaces cracked, timeworn and weathered by the centuries. Joy’s repertoire of golden radiance is gently diffused by layers of varnish and beeswax veiled over abstract geometries. Yet these new works presented here by LED Architects reach beyond Cimabue’s distorted planes of perspective and the flattened forms of Giotto’s arched buildings.
Exhibition installation view
This exhibition heralds the fresh direction of newfound influence. Joy’s first New York solo exhibition since the early 2000s leads on from steadfast dedication to a practice split between Long Island, Nebraska and Europe. In these recent paintings Joy merges the appeal of ambitious American Abstraction with traces of ancient architecture. Angles, lines and structural forms fuse with poetic references, ideas borrowed from film and the artist’s own travels.
Desert Poem (Maroc)
2022 – 2025 Mixed Media on Canvas, 152.5 x 122 cm, 60 x 48 Inches
A voice cries out in the desert, revealing the silence of the sand. Joy’s painting ‘Desert Poem (Maroc)’ is sung in harmonies of iridescent, regal red tones. Evoking the loneliness and majesty of the expansive Algerian desert, this work is inspired by the artist’s own journey by camel near the Moroccan border. In another painting, thin transparent layers of blue recall the sea and sky viewed through the ‘whoosh’ of an open window in Nice. Stripes and luminous washes of varnish allude to Matisse’s Mediterranean interiors and the sea-salt scent of the waves.
A Window In Nice
2025, Mixed Media on Canvas, 152.5 x 122 cm, 60 x 48 Inches
In contrast, the shimmering, silver hues of ‘Queen’s Mirror’ suggest a cooler, almost industrial presence. This work is inspired by an ornate, royal mirror Joy encountered whilst retracing the steps of Lord Byron in Sintra, Portugal. Silver leaf, ink and oil imply the image of a faded reflection. The tarnish of Time. A vacuum of vanity to rival Sylvia Plath’s poem. Memory and materiality become one. Instability reigns.
The Queen’s Mirror
2021 – 2025, Mixed Media on Canvas, 122 x 91.5 cm, 48 x 36 Inches
Architecture of Silence (Foundation)
2025, Mixed Media on Canvas, 91.5 x 61 cm, 36 x 24 Inches
Several paintings in this exhibition are formed around a cross-shape structure. Joy’s recurring motif is inspired by the subterranean churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia. Carved deep into the earth during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, these hand-hewn sanctuaries are architectural hymns in stone. Shrouded in mystery, they are believed by some to be the handiwork of King Lalibela built with the help of Angels from on high.
Architecture of Silence (Gravity)
2022 – 25, Mixed Media on Canvas, 152.5 x 122 cm, 60 x 48 Inches
In ‘Architecture of Silence (Gravity)’ a golden form resembling a Doric column appears tethered by delicate lines of ink – like the giant bound to the earth in ‘Gulliver’s Tales’. Influenced by sci-fi films such as ‘Interstellar’ and ‘Gravity’, Joy’s floating form hovers as though a floating structure of light. Weightless yet constrained, variations in the gold leaf suggest movement, as though the imprint of sunlight streaming in through an unseen window.
Joy also draws inspiration from Medieval Cistercian Abbeys dotted throughout France, such as Sénanque. Resplendent in their plain, restrained ornamentation, the minimal aesthetic of these architectural wonders holds profound stillness. Echoes of their floor plans appear in Joy’s compositions, evoking the deep sense of contemplation still present in these buildings. Joy’s palette and choice of materials recall the balance of sunlight and shadow around the cloisters which once guided the monks’ introspective transformation in their oath of silence.
Icon Byzantium Lionheart
2023 – 25, Mixed Media on Canvas, 152.5 x 122 cm, 60 x 48 Inches
While ‘Icon Lionheart’ references Fontevraud Abbey, resting place of Richard the Lionheart, the silent stones of Mayan temples re-emerge in the diptych ‘Architecture of Silence (The Mayan)’. Here, Joy engages with the remains of an ancient civilisation lost to the jungle following his frequent visits to Mexico. This work resonates with the haunting painting ‘Ozymandias’ inspired by Shelley’s poem where a ‘colossal wreck, boundless and bare’ lies on the ‘lone and level sands’ beneath a vast sky in an ‘antique land’.
Architecture of Silence (The Mayan) & The Mayan (Moongold)
Diptych, 2024 – 5, Mixed Media on Two Canvas Panels, each 122 x 91.5 cm, 4 x 3 ft
If a civilisation falls, who is left to hear its crash? The collapse of its architecture?
Shadow lines of history are cast upon canvas as meditations on light, time, memory and the sacred geometry of silence.
Ozymadias
2025, Mixed Media on Canvas, 152.5 x 122 cm, 60 x 48 Inches
With thanks to Lynch Eisinger Design Architects and Amy Barkow
A wheel of silvery night steers us towards dawn and newborn light in Heath Hearn’s ‘Helm’. Guided by the wisdom of the dark, icy blues wrap their quiet magic over the spinning disc of the Earth as the Sun pauses along its ancient, arcing path.
And when the shadows are at their longest, the rich effervescent tones of Katy Brown’s ‘Sienna’ are kindled by the golden glow of first light. A shimmering serenade to the Sun’s transition and the beauty of the promise of growing light.
HAPPY WINTER SOLSTICE !
Heath Hearn, ‘Helm’, Oil on Panel, 60 x 60 cm
Katy Brown, ‘Sienna’, Oil on Panel 20, 20 x 25 cm
From Cornwall’s Tamar to London’s Thames, read more about Heath’s riverine inspired work:
Discover Katy’s spellbinding paintings in Linda Bell’s editorial for ‘enchanted’, Katy’s solo exhibition presented by the Russell Gallery earlier this year:
Here’s our brief guide of hints and tips about how to get to Tulum in Mexico. This dreamy travel destination has featured in several other Wanderlust posts by Linda Bell, our Founder! Think tropical pristine beaches stretching out from verdant jungle; lively night life; cultural and historical sites; culinary flair and inventive architecture with inspirational decor. Tulum is a place like no other . . . .
Our suggestions here will help to ensure your transition from worldwide wanderer to Tuluminati is as dreamy as it can be!
Disclaimer :
This article may contain affiliate links. This means Pendour may earn a commission should you chose to sign up for a program or make a purchase using our links, with no extra cost to you. This helps to fund Pendour’s online presence and our culture, travel and lifestyle suggestions. We love the companies featured on Pendour and are sure you will too!
CUSTOMS & VISAS
Citizens of most countries do not require a visa to visit Mexico for 6 months or less.
Upon entry to the country, the immigration official will ask a few simple questions about where you are staying, how long for and whether or not you have been to Mexico before. They will then stamp your passport.
Even if you can not speak Spanish fluently, the staff tend to be especially friendly if you can at least attempt some everyday phrases – Hola, Gracias and Adios!
Following immigration and collection of any checked baggage, be prepared to have all of your handbags, coats and suitcases x-rayed. You will also be searched by sniffer dogs as quite rightly there is zero tolerance on any illegal substances. Additionally, there are often spot checks on luggage, so don’t be scared if you’re invited over for a quick inspection.
ARRIVAL AT CANCúN AIRPORT
Most visitors will travel to Tulum via Cancún airport. Cancún is a major city on the Yucatán Peninsula and about a 2.5 hour drive away from Tulum. (By car the journey often takes longer due to traffic!) The airport serves national flights to and from many destinations in the USA, Canada and Europe, though these flights may not be every day.
If you are arriving in Cancún, it’s best to arrange transport to Tulum directly with your hotel, as they can ensure a seamless experience. For example, Zamas Hotel ensures a relaxed fare all round with good communication via Whatsapp. Staff in uniform are easy to spot in the hustle and bustle of arrivals and provide cool water as soon as you take your seat in their vehicle. Face flannels are a welcome treat in the heat after a long flight – you’re now on your way to Paradise!
You may also like to hire a car. It’s best to go to the desks and barter for the best deal. Don’t be nervous, it’s a great way to get to meet people! Suss out your favourite company – with your gut feeling – oh and it’s fun! Mex and America are often been the cheapest, but it can depend on how many days you are looking to rent for and whether or not you intend to return the vehicle to the same location.
It’s important to check that the car is fully covered as many car rental companies do not accept insurance from your credit card company. Smaller cars are ideal especially with a higher chassis if you really want to go exploring.
Check out our detailed Guide to Driving In Mexico for more suggestions and what to look out for! (Coming soon. . . . )
ARRIVAL AT TULUM AIRPORT
Courtesy of Travelling Lifestyle
This wonderful new airport serves flights predominately to and from the USA, through it’s sure to expand soon!
Located close to the National military school this huge undertaking has resulted in a beautiful contemporary style airport. Quick processing times, lots of natural light and decorative features bring the jungle vibe indoors!
This small airport is much easier to navigate than Cancún with fewer queues, waiting times and no large cruise or coach groups! Again as with Cancún, it’s a good idea to book transport directly with your accommodation – then look out for the drivers holding signs bearing your name or the name of your hotel!
TAXI FROM TULUM AIRPORT
Taxis from Tulum airport to Tulum Pueblo or Zona Hotelera tend to be on the extortionate side, sometimes costing as much as taxis from Cancún to Tulum! In this way they are quite pricey but of course a great way to begin your stay, especially if you are a larger group, with little pre-planning required.
When you exit customs at Tulum airport, staff from the taxi companies will call out at you. If you fancy it, you can haggle a bit to ensure you get the best rate!
After any flight delays, red eyes or early mornings, this is probably the quickest route to mezcal by the waves!
CAR HIRE AT TULUM AIRPORT
Upon exit of customs, head past the initial car rental desks and check out the very last stand in the corner of the Arrivals hall.
So far America offers the best rates with inclusive insurance. You can return the car to Tulum or Cancún Airports and there is also a depot on the road between Tulum town and the Playa for any issues, or if you only plan on having a car for a few days’ exploring. As recently as the end of 2025, an eight day hire with a different drop-off location for a small car is about 400 USD, with no pre-booking.
AUTOBUS TRANSIT FROM TULUM AIRPORT
A red ADO bus in front of Tulum Airport
Travelling by bus perhaps refelcts most closely the adventurous spirit of Tulum! Once you have secured your ticket, approximately 11 dollars per person, be sure to head over to the red ADO busses with plenty of time! Grab a carton of refreshing coconut water on the way from one of the cafes in the Arrivals Hall as it’s a good 40 minute ride to the depot in Tulum Pueblo.
Enjoy the scenery and smooth new road – all traffic free and lined by the beautiful green and verdant jungle. Several little villages will whizz right past your window, a glimpse of how locals live.
Look out for Cenotes Escondida and Cristal on the approach to Tulum as these are well worth coming back to for a refreshing swim!
Once you get to the main ADO depot in Tulum it can be a tad chaotic as there isn’t much space and lots of luggage to offload. Outside the depot is a taxi rank along the main road, but don’t let them take you for a ride with their higher rates!
Instead, cross over the road to the restaurants and (after a chilled cerveza!) hail a cab. You will find the rate significantly less than on the opposite side directly outside of the bus depot.
AND NOW YOU'RE IN TULUM
The beach at Parque del Jaguar
We have a whole suite of Pendour Picks highlighting the most authentic places to stay, go and eat during your visit to this upscale, boho beach-meets-jungle scene.
Check out our Pendour Picks for a Traditional Trip to Tulum. Discover classic beach clubs, restaurants and music spots not to be missed!
Connect with the past – catch our article Descending gods and Jaguars and learn about Tulum’s new Archaeological Museum, nestled deep in the jungle.
Read our Driving Guide to Mexico for more thoughts about getting around Tulum during your stay.
The view from Zamas Hotel Restaurant
NEED TO KEEP CONNECTED IN TULUM?
Hoping to work remotely or keep up to date whilst you’re in the jungle?
You may need an e-SIM! eSIMania offer a range of programmes to keep you online. With no additional roaming fees, worldwide coverage and instant delivery, there’s a programme for every destination and wallet! A seven day plan in Mexico starts from just $6!
EXPLORE MORE WITH AN ORGANISED TULUM TOUR
If you like the idea of a relaxed and friendly guided tour, taking in your personal interests, GoWithGuide is the service to choose! Their bespoke offering means you can select a local guide who actually lives in the Tulum area. Your GoWithGuide will work with you, developing an adaptable programme to help turn your dream Riviera Maya itinerary into reality! Follow this link for Tulum’s local guides who are ready to welcome you as friends and share some of Tulum’s blissful and most coveted spots!
A PENDOUR P.S.
If you’ve found our Pro-tips helpful for planning your arrival in Tulum please consider treating us to to a coffee by following the link below to Ko-fi! Your generosity helps us to keep all things Pendour up and running, supporting artists, small businesses and highlighting cultural and travel gems. We thank you for your kindness!
This Pendour Wanderlust article may contain affiliate links. This means Pendour may earn a commission should you chose to sign up for a program or make a purchase using our links, with no extra cost to you. We love the companies featured on Pendour and are sure you will too!
Note : Contact details of hotels and restaurants are regularly updated but please let us know in the comments if you find any details require a refresh!
Famed for its crystal-clear Caribbean waters, Mayan ruins and jungle vibes, Tulum has grown from a secluded tropical hide-out to one of the world’s favourite travel destinations.
Despite its newfound Instagram appeal – celebrating everything from trendy accommodation and refined restaurants to scenes of revellers dancing barefoot upon silken sands – Tulum still retains much of its quintessential alternative vibe. Perhaps it just takes a little more searching to discover the special atmosphere of Tulum’s hidden gems.
Our Pendour Picks have been selected by our Founder Linda Bell. A frequent visitor to Tulum’s sandy shores since 2016, her curated list features wave-worn, original jungle hide-outs that are not necessarily on the Instagrammers’ watchlist. Hand picked, these chosen hang-outs testify to the Tulum of yesteryear, still very much alive.
Read on (or perhaps jump in!) to discover where you can experience Tulum’s authentic, chic atmosphere with our Pendour Picks!
From where to stay to where to go,
our Pendour Picks share aspects of Tulum’s history,
recent developments and
authentic beachside spots!
WHERE IS TULUM?
Tulum is located on the eastern shore of the state of Quintana Roo on the Yucatán Peninsular in Mexico. It is about 80 miles south of Cancún and the ancient city of Cobá lies inland, around 25 miles to the north west.
What language is spoken? What currency should I carry? When is the best time to visit Tulum?
Find answers to these questions and more on our Tulum Wanderlust Wishlist FAQ! (Coming Soon)
MAYAN MAGIC TO GLOBAL GETAWAY
There’s so much to explore now in Tulum!
Where to Stay? Where to Go? What to Pack?
If you’re thinking of heading to Tulum:
Good news – it’s always a good idea!
The main reason for going to Tulum is to savour the bo-ho atmosphere oozing with historic connectivity to the the ancient Mayan Civilisation. That’s right – no matter what you may have heard, Tulum is not just a place to take selfies in jungle bars and beach clubs! It offers SOO much more than that!
The Castello at the Tulum Ruins
In a state of never-ending transition, Tulum has gone through many changes. It’s a place that never stands still!
In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Tulum was a major trading hub in Mexico and the Ruins of the ancient city still remain today. In the early 1990s Tulum Pueblo, a few kilometres from the Ancient Mayan Ruins, was a small, quiet town, just a few shops and not even a bank! A handful of grass-roofed cabañas constructed in the traditional Mayan style stretched along the gorgeous beaches, all framed by the blue sky and swaying coconut groves.
Since then the population of Tulum has bloomed to about 33,000 with many more amenities for tourists and locals alike. The town is now made up of several distinct zones:
Tulum Centro – the heart of Tulum! A busy area with shops, supermarkets, hostels, rooms to rent and a few live music spots.
Tulum Zona Hotelera – A stretch of around 70 beachfront hotels, offering a mix of traditional boutique style or more controversial concrete constructions.
Aldea Zama – a completely new neighbourhood offering condos, second homes and restaurants mixing the beauty of the jungle with modern living.
La Valeta – another new development with villas and rental properties and direct access to the beaches via a brand new road.
There is also the Ancient Mayan Ruin district to the north in the National Parque del Jaguar with a variety of restaurants, hotels and resorts.
Sian Ka’anBiosphere lies to the south to the of the Zona Hotelera and is a prized area for conservation with little development.
Along with all of the recently built infrastructure – from new roads connecting La Valeta to the beaches; real estate for AirB&B rentals; the addition of a train station; supermarkets and even a (sort-of) nearby airport – have come price hikes, traffic, minimum spends and the like.
However, my most recent experience of Tulum in November 2025 suggests that steps are being taken to ensure that Tulum retains its magic as it joins the global getaway map.
ROSSEAU RUSTIC
Henri Rosseau's 'Exotic Landscape', 1908, Oil on canvas, 116 x 89 cm, 45.6 x 35 Inches. Private Collection
Tulum is surrounded by lush, vibrant jungle and tropical forest life. Waking up to the sound of birdsong, the tatter of palm leaves in the breeze and the earthy scent of morning dew is intoxicating. Perhaps you’ll even be lucky enough for an unexpected glimpse of a Coati through the foliage?!
Being in Tulum can often feel a bit like being inside a Rousseau painting – even down to the snake plants!
CHECK IN & UNWIND - AT ZAMAS HOTEL
This boutique oasis was one of the first along these jungle shores! Still family-run today, Zamas has welcomed many repeat travellers over the years and offers a flavour of that original hippy appeal. Sunrise-style décor echoes the luminous palette of dawn, an apt move considering ‘Zamas’ in the Mayan language translates to ‘sunrise’ or ‘dawn’.
Palapa crowned, low rise cabañas all integrate traditional building methods with minimal use of concrete and radiate ‘Swiss Family Robinson’ inventiveness. Zamas is a chic, family-friendly place to stay with tonnes of personality!
No trip to Tulum would be complete without a Celosa sipped in barefoot bliss on Zamas’ sand-floored restaurant – one of the last along these shores. Happy Hour is a crowd favourite from 3 – 6 pm daily.
promotion : book directly on Zamas’ website for an exclusive 25% discount with the code CLUBZAMAS
PEEK INTO THE PAST
Chichen Itzá, Cobá, Ek Balam. A number of ancient Mayan ruins surround Tulum so visiting at least one site is an absolute must during your stay!
These remarkable historic sites evidence the sophistication of the ancient Mayan civilisation and offer a unique opportunity to connect with the past. Whilst the Tulum ruin is located in Parque del Jaguar and accessible by bicycle, on foot or electric cart once you’re in the Park, others are further afield so you’ll have to organise transport.
The taxis in the area are about the most expensive in the world, so ideally you need organise a trip with a local guide or rent a car – either upon arrival at the airport or in Tulum Pueblo. Check out our Guide for Driving in Mexico with hints about where to rent a vehicle!
Tulum Ruins
Located on a cliff overlooking the turquoise waters of the Caribbean, Tulum was one of the last Mayan settlements to be abandoned. Find out more about this sacred settlement in our post Descending gods and Jaguars.
Chichen Itzá
Probably the busiest and most spectacular ruin to visit. This UNESCO world heritage site lies to the west of Valladolid and is of course a popular spot for big coach tours.
Cobá
The next closest ruin to Tulum. Coba was the centre point of a network of roads, or sacbe, indicative of its status as an economic and social nuclei. Along with well preserved ballcourts, many stelae have been discovered here.
Ek Balam
A spiritual site honouring the ‘black’ or ‘star’ jaguar. Impressive relief carvings on the Acropolis of ruler Ukit Kan L’t Tok. Climb to the top for mesmerising views of the jungle!
Most of the historic sites offer guided tours for an extra fee, or you can connect with a local guide via GoWithGuide. These friendly guides live near Tulum and can create a bespoke schedule for you, your group or partner.
Find out more about each of these sites in our Wanderlust article Day Trips from Tulum.
Linda Bell's new friends at Ek Balam
A GRAND DAY OUT - AT PARQUE del JAGUAR
Don your sun hat and glasses and take to the waves in the the new Parque del Jaguar!
Ancient Mayan Ruins overlooking the beach in Parque del Jaguar
Tulum is one of the rare places in the world where you can swim and relax on golden sands in the presence of a major historical site. The Mayan Ruins are situated in the Parque del Jaguar atop an easterly facing cliff, basking in the sunlight and overlooking the open sea. The only way to see and experience this Mayan Magic first hand is by gaining entrance to the Park.
Parque del Jaguar is the latest development in Tulum. In an attempt to protect local wildlife, historical sites and landmarks and preserve the beauty of the surrounding beaches, there have been many changes to the Park. Once a tropical hang-out – a bit on the wild side with live music, large gatherings, local crowds and countless refreshment kiosks cradled by swaying palms – the Park has now been transformed into a salubrious attraction.
Plush new roads with night-time lighting, signage, shower and toilet facilities line the once simple track, connecting the ancient Mayan Ruins with a stylish new museum, viewing platforms and a grand entrance foyer.
The new entrance foyer to Parque Del Jaguar
The introduction of an entrance fee alongside a drastic ban on massages, music and unregistered beach bars has been quite controversial. However, the enforced ban on plastic bottles is of course very welcome!
Despite these changes, Parque del Jaguar is still integral to that all important Traditional Tulum experience. There’s something for everyone, whether learning about the ancient Mayan civilisation in the Museum, gazing in wonder at the Ruins, hiking around the lush forest, boating out to the reef or sipping cervezas from a beachside bed!
And don’t just stop at dusk – the offering of restaurants and hotels in Parque Del Jaguar provides an unrivalled experience and opportunity to enjoy the vibrant romance and magic of Tulum beneath the stars! To gain entrance after hours, bring your phone or a print out of your restaurant reservation to show to the guards at the entrance.
The sea, the sea. At Parque del Jaguar
The Old Sign Posts at the entrance to the Park before it became a major attraction in Tulum
Entrance fee : 400 pesos (for non-Mexicans) Free on Sundays.
Want to find out more about Parque Del Jaguar? Check out our post Descending gods and Jaguars for more hints and tips about organising an unforgettable day out in Tulum!
And don’t miss our special article about the new Archaeological Museum!
TAKE TO THE WAVES - ON TULUM'S PUBLIC BEACHES
Minimum spends, beach hoarding by resorts and the entrance fee to Parque del Jaguar have all made access to the playa extremely limited in recent times. On one occasion, I couldn’t actually leave the beach! Even after buying a drink in a hotel I wasn’t allowed to pass though to return to the jungle road as I was not a paying guest! (No worries, the establishment in question clearly hasn’t made our Pendour Picks!)
Thankfully, issues such as this have now been resolved by opening up access points, linking the road to the waves and helping to reclaim what Tulum is all about!
Find public access to the beach via a dedicated, palm-lined walkway close to Orchid Beach House. There are also public toilets in a shaded shack close by.
Punta Piedra is another small public beach worth checking out. The entrance is directly opposite Potheads cafe.
REACH OUT - TO THE REEF
Explore the colourful coral reefs of Tulum, teeming with marine life!
Tulum’s proximity to the Mesoamerican Reef – also known as the Great Mayan Reef or Great Maya Reef – means you can discover the (literally) breath taking beauty of Mexico’s underwater world during your stay. Catch sight of vibrant fish species and get up close to timid turtles. The second largest reef system in the world, the Mesoamerican Reef stretches for over 700 miles and is home to more than 650 coral species, 500 fish species, five different turtles and even the docile whale shark.
Mexi Divers
A traditional Tulum adventure! Sign up to a full PADI course, early morning dive or reef snorkelling tour at Mexi Divers, just strides away from Zamas Hotel’s crescent shaped playa. Try out ‘friendly’ fishing and watery eco-tours too!
With over twenty years of experience, the team’s passion for nature and community ensures a personalised, safe and enjoyable adventure offering for all.
And if you’d like to connect your breath through diving and yoga, check out Tribal Tulum’s transformational Dive & Yoga Retreat. Deepen your connection to Nature and Self through a bespoke course combining cenote dives with yoga stretches in Tribal’s fully equipped studio.
Pricing starts from $1489 USD (single) and $2164 (double) including dives, yoga sessions and 6 days / 5 nights accommodation.
Location : on the road between Tulum Pueblo and Zona Hotelera
One of my favourite beach clubs in Parque del Jaguar!
A calm and welcoming spot, Zazil Kin radiates soul and simplicity. A picturesque coconut grove provides generous shade for tables and sunbeds whilst drinks flow from the old bar. The beach here is wide like a golden ribbon, leading to the tideline of aqua-licious ripples.
Zazil Kin’s original beach shack vibe ensures no minimum spend, complimenting the whole laid-back ambience! Enjoy a cerveza in the cool of the shade and stay just an hour. Or chill out all day – dip into turquoise waves between tucking into freshly prepared desayuno, lunch and cena. The food and drinks are a little cheaper here than at other beach clubs in Parque del Jaguar.
If you’re already on the beach, look out for the impressive star-like entrance portal, springing Mayan-rustic energy. Otherwise, if you are coming from the road, Zazil Kin is part of Alito Hotel, where you can park your car or bicycle. Saunter through the hotel and out towards the jazzy, sun-inspired tunnel, channelling coastal charm.
Over the years, staff known from elsewhere seem to have migrated to this tiki-inspired beach club. The service is always polite and friendly; they tend not to disturb or hassle you so you’re free to relax at your leisure!
Don’t miss a classic photo opportunity in the Zazil Kin Throne!
Location : Situated in Parque del Jaguar as part of Alito Hotel (formerly Don Amandos) Rooms in the coconut grove are available from $ 80 a night.
Beach cabanas in the coconut grove. The traditional Tulum way!
PAUSE THE PACE - AT POCNA
This Mediterranean inspired locale is another favourite in Parque del Jaguar. The chill vibe welcomes boho beaching; lounge on the beanbags or sway in the restaurant swings as cobalt waves roll in along the shore.
Boasting two restaurants, Ramon for culinary delights, and Kogure for Japanese purist-style dishes, Pocna is the perfect place for a waterside culinary journey. Delectable menu choices elevate beachside dining to a new level!
Immerse yourself in this tropical oasis. Striped towels contribute to that laissez-faire feel reminiscent of the Côte d’Azur, harmonising with Pocna’s Mexican origins. Staff are professional and dedicated – ensuring your beachside experience is as perfect as can be!
And if you’re just stopping off to take in the chill vibe for some shade, savour an alcohol-free Pina Colada to mix up your repertoire: swim:drink:swim:repeat!
Location : Parque del Jaguar
address : Carr. Tulum a, Av. Boca Paila Km. 1.5, Zona Hotelera, 77780 Tulum, Q.R.
Admire the ocean from the tranquility of this classic Tulum look-out. If al fresco dinging is your thing, then Mezzanine is a must!
Relish in the bold flavours of Thai-style cuisine, from zesty spring rolls to refreshing soups and zingy salads whilst unforgettable views of gorgeous golden sandy beaches and topaz surf unfurl around you. You may even catch sight of sting ray in the shallows, a few meters below.
Sensuous and suave, Mezzanine offers a little more of a luxe ambience, from its curries served in coconut shells to cocktails with a Thai twist. An elegant alternative to the usual Mexican fare! Just don’t feed the iguanas, cute though they may be!
The gentle trickle of a fountain echoes around the graceful pool. Cross the stepping-stone bridge in the serene presence of the buddha, framed by exotic mangrove trees. Scents of lemongrass, coconut and basil seduce. This truly sumptuous spot entices all of your senses.
If you’re out late, enjoy a romantic dinner in the welcome cool of darkness, served under the Yucatán’s stars, shining in the firmament above. It’s as close as can be to echoes of the ancient Mayan era.
And if you still can’t get enough . . . Mezzanine has several rooms where you can stay, tucked up above the restaurant, cuddled by traditional grass roofs and blessed by the ocean breeze.
It’s a little known Tulum Tale that Diamonte K is on an ancient Mayan burial site! This undoubtedly adds an edge of mystery and richness to any overnight stay or cocktail hour.
The little art trail of sophisticated sculptures adds poignant charm to this holistic-style get away cocooned by the Jaguar Parque and embraced by verdant ferns. Turquoise waves gently lap the secret, secluded Diamonte swimming Cove – a picture perfect view.
Stay in Nature's Embrace - a grass roofed cabana at Diamonte
There’s a hush. An intoxicating sense of the exotic veils this sacred place. Diamonte K is a reminder of the Ancient Mayan’s timeless influence along this jungle coastline.
A Buddha in the Restaurant emits calm and tranquilty, elevating the spiritual feel of Diamonte. With walls fashioned from wooden wagon wheels and natural stone, the Restaurant is a little dark perhaps, but welcome relief from the intense light reflected by the sand and sea.
As evening grows, so does the ambience. Soft lighting illuminates this atmospheric paradise which feels oh so from another time, an ancient world!
A Mayan style statue lit by candle light at the entrance to Diamonte K
Sunset Views
recommendation : Quench your thirst with a Strawberry Horchata, the taste of Diamonte’s mystical-meets-tropical aura!
A mellow jungle hide out offering a range of delicious breakfasts and daytime snacks. Sway in one of the swings and watch the world go by. From ginger infused wellness shots to quinoa bowls, Potheads is a great way to start your day! Mexican classics meet brunch favourites, all day, every day from 7 till 7.
Popular with locals, this family run space also boasts a happy hour on beers during the afternoon. Punta Piedra public beach is directly opposite so you can always pop in here for coffee or desayuno after an early morning dip!
Feel transported to Naples with the crackle and pop of the wood fired oven and the aroma of gloriously fresh ingredients. Boccanera’s hand crafted pizzas with abundant toppings are sure to put a smile on any fellow traveller’s, teenager’s, child’s or date’s face!
The staff here are wonderful and like to know where you’re from. Join their regular visitors – cats and racoons – and embrace jungle living as you peace out with pizza.
The reasonable prices and wonderful alcohol free beer will mean you’ll want to come back!
recommendation : try the Yucateca for full-on Mexican-ness!
Popular with locals, this casual yet jovial rendez-vous is spread between the circular restaurant at Maya Tulum and the beach. Grab a table and peruse the menu for your favourite flavours and pick your potion. The cocktails are pretty strong here (as I found out!) and the taco portions generous – you’ll get three of each filling which is fantastic value, but it’s easy to over-order!
The inexpensive menu and less fancy atmosphere make for a great break from the more upscale beach clubs left and right.
note : I think they also do Mexican wrestling in the trees here . . . .
This intimate and rustic beach setting is the ideal base for a quiet day spent lounging on the powder-soft sand and dipping into the aquamarine surf. Escape from the crowds in this tranquil retreat. It’s an idyllic spot to take life easy!
With no minimum spend, warm hospitality such as this this can be hard to find. Decorative mirrors, swings and seats crafted from driftwood all add to the chilled atmosphere and cast-away, jungle-meets-beach aesthetic.
Dishes are beautifully presented – delicate, like an orchid! – and celebrate the fresh flavours of Mexico.
An afternoon at Orchid Beach House completely recharges the soul. Immerse yourself in the luxury of this refuge amongst the palms.
And if you can’t get enough of this boutique abode, check out their rooms featuring plunge pools and traditional Mexican detailing.
Orchid also have another boutique hotel in the jungle with an exclusive sky nest for a romantic dinner nestled up in the tree tops.
location : Zona Hotelera, beach side
address : Carretera Tulum Boca Paila Km. 8.5, Tulum Beach, 77789 Tulum
Zee-haw! A Small Luxury Hotel of the World, this wave-front hangout is a Tulum classic. Upbeat tunes and attentive staff make this salubrious spot a Mexican Paradise. With no minimum spend, you’re welcome to lounge and enjoy a colourful cocktail or refreshing horchata in the shade of their palms or comfort of the open-sided grand palapa.
Enjoy the soupa de lima – a regional speciality. Taste the fresh flavours of tacos and even the La Zebra burger. With coffee served on a decorative slate with miniature meringues, everything is like a little performance.
Meanwhile, The Frida Kahlo style decor and mesmerising ceiling of floating hand-made angels ensure Zebra is a place you’ll love to come back to!
The swimming here is also wonderful, some really fun waves that toss and turn you. In addition to an outdoor shower, there’s eco-friendly sun-cream dotted about so you can have a good time in the sun without disturbing the reefs!
Located just off a side street in Tulum’s lively Pueblo district, Gloria de Don Pepe offers an extensive range of dishes, tapas style.
Posters of Barcelona adorn the stucco walls as patrons enjoy hearty Spanish croquettas, paella (with or without the squid ink!) along with oodles of crisp wine and margheritas!
A cosy ambience adds to the Spanish flavours presented by this lindo restaurante. A little touch of Catalonia in the heart of Mexico’s jungle.
The best mojitos are always served from a converted VW right?!
Enjoy the tropical taste of freshly crushed cane sugar in your cocktail as you take in the energetic atmosphere of this trendy music venue. Find a chair or table through the crowds to order tacos and snacks and let the jazz infused tunes drift over you. I’ve been lucky to hear some excellent groups playing here over the years, Batey never fails to impress!
It can get a tad busy, with dancers on stage and the party vibe spilling out onto the street so be prepared. As one of the few free music spots, Batey has a completely down-to-earth feel. Hands-down, this is where the REAL Tulum is at!
Believed by the Ancient Maya to be gates to the underworld, cenotes are water-filled sinkholes and caves. It is thought there are around 10,000 cenotes dotted throughout the Yucatán Penninsula and many are connected by deep aquifers, forming the largest underground freshwater system in the world!
With their milky, inky blue tones, cenotes make wonderful alternatives for your swimming fix, especially during the months of high Sargasso in the sea.
Whilst many of these awe-inspiring pools are sometimes hidden deep in the jungle, others have evolved into popular day clubs. Each one is a little different so it’s not a case of one cenote, all cenotes!
Linda Bell swimming in Cenote Cristal
We’re gradually compiling a list of favourite cenotes in the Tulum area and we look forward to sharing all the details with you in our forthcoming post.
PENDOUR PRO-TIP
If you’re visiting a cenote, wear only eco-friendly, reef-safe sunblock! Chemicals in usual sun cream can cause DNA damage for aquatic life (and won’t do your skin any good in the long term either!) You can purchase Kiin Sun (a personal favourite when in Tulum) in the OXXO shops for about $ 8.
Most cenotes have showers so you can wash off any pollutants before you submerge into the gloriously refreshing waters.
Or better still, invest in a Solbari which will keep your skin fully protected as you can wear it in the water after your shower.
WELLNESS WONDERMENT
Much of Tulum’s favour has been in part to its credentials as a mecca for wellness and rejuvenation. From Mezzanine’s charcoal bowls, to the bikini bootcamp, Temezcal rituals, smoothies by the roadside in La Valeta, beachside massages and countless opportunities for yoga classes or meditation retreats, your journey to revitalisation begins in Tulum’s peaceful sanctuaries
JOIN THE TRIBE - AT TRIBAL TULUM
One of Tulum’s first purpose-built yoga studios and a classic for that all important Traditional Tulum experience!
Whether you are a dedicated Yogi or yoga first-timer, the experience of going to a class at Tribal is like no other! Boasting a spacious, well equipped studio with panoramic views of the jungle canopy, Tribal celebrates and integrates all that is necessary for a uplifting experience. Glance through the window during your class – it’s like doing vinyasa flow high up in the trees! Feel weightless and grounded.
Experienced instructors offer a range of yoga styles daily, catering for all abilities and levels. From restorative yoga to Ashtanga, the weekly schedule makes effective use of the wall ropes and hardwood floors for a truly tribal time connecting with yourself.
Combine your yoga focus with dive or writing sessions too, as Tribal also offers a variety of specialist retreats. Accommodation is provided in their upstairs studios, or at Zamas Hotel’s Casa Vallejo for a larger group!
The Studio is on the road between Tulum Pueblo and Hotelera Zona, so perfectly placed if you’re staying in the town or beachside!
From laughing Yoga to regenerative poses, there are so many opportunities to join classes. Here a few more suggestions along the beachfront :
Maya Tulum :
Has been offering yoga classes and on and off through the years. Classes tend to be rooted in pure principles, in palapa roofed studios – no fancy businesses here!
Enjoy a class in the purpose built studio with floor to ceiling windows offering idyllic views of the blue sea and sky! This is a favourite if you’re willing to pay a little more for the pleasure of an unforgettable class!
With so many new developments in Tulum, it has never been more important to consider the environmental impact on the jungle, native wildlife, beaches and local resources. The Mayans lived in harmony with nature and it’s important to attempt to echo their sentiment during the environmental crisis of our contemporary age. Tulum lies in an area of exquisite beauty; if this is destroyed and Tulum becomes like everywhere else, then there will be no reason to visit!
Here’s a few thoughts to consider when planning your visit or enjoying your stay :
Water :
Most establishments in the Zona Hotelera and Parque del Jaguar are not connected to mains water supply. This means water for showering and bathroom use is brought in on the back of a large truck. This water is desalinated but not suitable for drinking, so it’s recommended you find accomodation that includes filtered water so you’re not purchasing plastic bottles! Why not invest in a funky bkr bottle? The spiked ones seem perfect for the jungle!
Please remember that shipping this water to each and every hotel and unloading it by a pump system is very carbon intensive, so make every effort not to waste water when showering or brushing your teeth!
WCs :
You will notice many signs asking you (in various languages!) to please not flush paper down the loo – only human waste! This is because most establishments have only septic tanks and being in the jungle there are no sewage pipes! It’s a bit strange at first but you soon get used to placing all paper in the basket provided. Don’t worry, they are emptied very regularly! As many toilet paper companies bleach their products, this also helps prevent the bleach and dyes from entering the waterways.
And on that note – the same everywhere else – do not flush wet wipes or any other toiletries during your stay. Such items will enter the waterways of sacred cenotes and won’t be good for the turquoise waters!
Rubbish and waste :
Effective waste management does not fully exist in the Yucatán, if you drive out of the tourist areas you will see locals often burn their waste, which includes plastic items.
From toothpaste tabs to organic cotton rounds, reusable and biodegradable is the only answer here! Check out our Pendour Living page for sustainable options and make every effort to take any trash such as unwanted clothing, daily contact lens blisters, back home with you, rather than using Tulum as a dump site!
Sun Cream :
Many chemicals in standard suncream and sunblock are highly toxic to aquatic life and in the long term not very good for your skin. Some chemicals found in siuncreams can stay in the human bloodstream for many moths after initial application. check out our Sun Cream article for our receommendations, coming soon!
Sign the Pledge!
If you are serious about helping to protect the natural environment of Tulum during your stay, please sign the Tulum pledge!
MAKE A JOURNEY - TO NEARBY TOWNS
Valladolid Cathedral
If you’re feeling adventurous there’s a whole range of towns and cities just waiting for you to discover and explore – a car or train ride away from Tulum.
Marvel at Valladolid’s stately churches and monastery, take a dip in the exquisite waters at Solomon Bay or pick up the pace with a trip to Merida, the Yucatán’s vibrant capital city.
Explore our suggestions in more detail on our separate post, Day Trips from Tulum.
A Colourful street scene in Valladolid
We advise renting a car so you have total flexibility on your schedule and destination, take a look at the Pendour guide for driving in Mexico, coming soon!
Pelicans at Solomon Bay
A PENDOUR P.S.
If you’ve found our Pendour Picks helpful for getting to know the authentic side of Tulum, or you’ve enjoyed reading this insight into Mexico, please consider treating us to a coffee! Follow the link below to Ko-fi where you can make a donation. Your generosity will help to keep all things Pendour up and running – supporting artists, small businesses and highlighting cultural and travel gems. We thank you for your support and kindness!
The exhibition ‘Art & Life’ at Fondation Maeght commences without the conviviality of a raised curtain, the spine-tingling sound of an orchestra tuning or even a resounding applause at its close. Yet this special exhibition of the work of Barbara Hepworth feels like a performance. One wherein the audience themselves move across the stage between elegant performers of poise, balance and energy.
From a portrait of Hepworth painted by Ethel Walker to some of her most celebrated pieces, many of the artworks in this show are on loan from the Hepworth Wakefield and private individuals. Curated by Eleanor Clayton, this well-presented display demonstrates how Hepworth was inspired by life events, her surroundings and deep respect for ancient history.
Ethel Walker, Portrait of Barbara Hepworth c.1920, Oil on canvas, 76.5 x 64 cm, Wakefield Permanent Art Collection
Located in sunny St-Paul-de-Vence – a stone’s throw from the Matisse Chapel and well-appointed La Colombe d’Or – Fondation Maeght first exhibited Hepworth’s sculpture as part of ‘Ten Years of Living Art 1955 – 1965’, presenting ‘Two Forms in Echelon’ (1961) and ‘Figure (Walnut)’ (1964). Hepworth donated the latter sculpture to the foundation, its oval form and highly polished finish now a highlight in this current exhibit.
Figure (Walnut) 1964, Bronze, 184 x 76.5 x 62.5 cm,
Collection of Fondation Marguerite et Aime Maeght
STAGE SET : AN ARCHITECTURAL BACKDROP
Fondation Maeght was completed in 1964 to Josep Lluís Sert’s design. Just like his later 1975 project, the Miró Foundation in Barcelona, this architectural masterpiece is completely in tune – in quick-step – with the artworks displayed upon its Mediterranean-warmed walls and balmy terracotta floors.
Slivers of water dotted throughout the interconnecting gallery spaces reflect majestic pine trees above. Sky-high, their bushy green needles seem almost cloud-like in these minty reflections. The gentle chirp of cicadas mimics the rustle of programmes in this, the domain of the ‘upper circle’.
And then the prelude, the opening scene. Giacometti’s make their sinewy presence known upon the open-air stage just beyond the foundation’s glass-trimmed entrance foyer. There is something of the feel of a Greek amphitheatre about the way the architecture frames and melds around the artwork.
Sculptures by Giacometti at Fondation Maeght
Meanwhile, each vaulted gallery ceiling of elegant white half-domes gives the impression of spotlights and follows the lead of Hepworth’s curvaceous forms. These semi-domes not only recall sun bleached cupolas atop salt sprayed chapels in Greece (Hepworth visited Greece twice during her lifetime) but from the outside conjure the impression of funnels on a steam ship. A backdrop then for ‘Anything Goes’ or even ‘Sailor Beware!’. One moment we are sailing westwards in the Atlantic, the next looking to dock in St Ives, Cornwall.
Beneath these unforgettable roof-top sails – concrete appears to billow as though the whole building is being swiftly pulled along by a trade wind – the gardens of Fondation Maeght spread out like a promenade deck. Complete with café and shaded seating areas, there is also a chapel boasting some of the most sophisticated Stations of the Cross and a dazzling stained-glass window by Raoul Ubac. Whether you do imagine yourself out at sea or feel reassuringly tucked up in Colline des Gardettes, this stage set fosters the mood for clarity of thought, freedom of feeling and focus for looking.
Like the funnels of a ship . . .Josep Lluís Sert’s Fondation Maeght
Up in the shadows cast by these impressive sail-like forms a panoramic view – so entirely different to Hepworth’s native Yorkshire and beloved Penwith – evaporates in a haze of heat. Not just the most divine location for an art foundation but entirely part of the viewing experience. These curving whitewashed parabolas are performers too in the choreography of this sculptural spectacle.
The landscape evaporates in a haze of heat
Fondation Maeght is therefore a harmonious setting from which to stage this comprehensive exhibition. Greeted with a larger-than-life portrait of the artist (not too dissimilar from billboards of movie stars or their likeness as cardboard-cut outs) we can sense Hepworth’s keen eye – her look for tone, form and line – and imagine the feel of the sculptor’s hands which gave life and movement, dance, to stone.
MOVEMENT & MEANING
As we wind ourselves around each sculpture their arrangement leads us in an improvised pattern of ‘enchaînement’ steps. A fluid trail instigated by the curvature and very loops of Hepworth’s creations. Between this well-toned troupe of stretching, turning, leaping principles and chorus members, we the audience are privileged to participate through the act of looking.
More than just a biographical account or a survey of Hepworth’s artistic finesse, this exhibit tells the story between artistic practice and the artist’s life. We watch as the two blur and morph into one, a fine pas de deux of dizzying complexity.
CURVES OF RENEWAL
The show really gets going after Hepworth’s early experiments. We find her in her stride by the time we sashay towards the juggernaut ‘Corinthus’. Information panels (which take on the role of Narrator throughout the entirety of this ensemble) inform us that this heavyweight player was made following the death of Hepworth’s eldest son Paul in an air crash.
A lament for her son, ‘Corinthus’ possesses a dense volume like a gravitational force, sucking all air, light and emotion into its cavernous, carved-out heart. Evoking birth and death – the empty womb, the empty cradle and the spirit leaving the body – the work broods on the torment of tragedy and the cycle of life.
Installation view of Corinthus, 1954 - 1955, Guarea wood, part painted, 104.1 x 106.7 x 101.5 cm, Collection of Tate
To overcome her grief, Hepworth visited Corinth in Greece where there is both a Roman amphitheatre and an ancient Greek theatre. Upon her return, Hepworth received a gift of enormous logs of Nigerian guarea from a friend. The resulting sculpture is a confluence of art and life. ‘Corinthus’ is a twisting, nebulous form where the artist’s sorrow meets the influence of deep history and traces of ancient civilisation.
Much later in 1970, Hepworth said :
‘My sculpture has often seemed to me
like offering a prayer at moments of great unhappiness.
Whenever there has been threat to life . . .
My reaction has been to swallow despair,
to make something that rises up,
something that will win.
In another age. . . .
I would simply have carved cathedrals.’
In the dance of art and life, ‘Corinthus’ affirms Hepworth’s early allegiance to Christian Science and her later Anglian beliefs. This sculpture is a living soloist, a performer fashioned from wood. A powerful, grounded and contained stance transcends the material world to that of the spirit, revealing the artist’s anguish.
Detail of 'Corinthus'
OPEN LINES - TENSION & RELEASE
Sculpture with Colour (Deep Blue and Red), 1940, Plaster, paint and string, Private Collection UK
Transfixed, we almost fall headlong into the deep, limitless blue of ‘Sculpture With Colour’ (1940). The work’s hypnotic Azul shade is as electrifying as Yves Klein’s (1928 – 62) take on the cobalt blue Nicoise skies above and as divine as Giotto’s chapel of lapis lazuli.
Hepworth’s hue is heightened by the presence of dusky red strings. Reminiscent of diazomas these also serve to accentuate the sloping sides of the void within. The sculpture seems improbably, Tardis-like deep! Set at taught diagonals across the opening, Hepworth’s use of string alludes to musical instruments, from harps to cellos and guitars. She may also be referencing fishermen’s lines and lobster pots – once familiar sights along St Ives’ harbour – thus indicating the artist’s deep connection to her Cornish community. A factor which could have been explored further in the curative contextualisation of this exhibition.
The modest scale of works such as ‘Sculpture With Colour’ is due in part to the war and Hepworth’s domestic responsibilities as a mother to young triplets at the time. She was only able to work in the evenings, producing ‘child-friendly’ scale sculptures alongside numerous drawings. ‘Art & Life’ includes prints and drawings from this period to demonstrate how Hepworth explored complex forms in 2D on a flat surface. Several, such as ‘Forms (Brown, Grey and White)’ (1941) are soft and radiate a sense of delicacy, presented here as an adagio to counterbalance the virtuoso sculptural forms.
Forms (Brown, Grey and White), 1941, Pencil and gouache on paper, 50.3 x 35.3 cm, Wakefield Council Permanent Art Collection
However, the candy-coloured screenprints installed upon the walls in the final gallery space are mostly a distraction from the real stars of the show. As flat and unflattering as the clog dance in ‘La Fille Mal Gardée’, these framed works do not attest to Hepworth’s great vision or sensitive materiality. In the context of this exhibition this range of lithographs from ‘Delos’ to ‘Cool Moon’ seem somewhat superfluous, like an over-use of stage props.
Photograph from the Midsummer Marriage
Following on from ‘Sculpture With Colour’ we observe how Hepworth’s integration of string develops across time and motifs. Costumes from ‘The Midsummer Marriage’ (premiered 1955) are presented as a suite of photographs and show the white lines like archer’s bows, recalling the structure of ladies’ Victorian hoop skirts or even the interior ‘string-scape’ of a piano.
Orpheus (Maquette I), 1956, Brass and string, 54 x 22.5 x 18.9 cm, Wakefield Council Permanent Collection
We see how Hepworth’s lines develop into intricate networks in pieces such as the sublime ‘Orpheus (Maquette I)’ and ‘Stringed Figure (Curlew) (Maquette I)’, both from 1956. The eye refuses to rest on these criss-crossing vibrating lines; the sensitive form of a wing, a bird in flight, materialises. A swan about to leave the watery world to join its wedge up in the sphere of the sun and moon.
Stringed Figure (Curlew) (Maquette I), 1956, Bronze and String, 27 x 33 x 23.5 cm, Collection Rachel Kidd
Like a ballet dancer en pointe, these strings are an attempt to defy the laws of physics. Just as dancers leap through the void of the air, a sensation of strain and pressure is induced and made visible by these criss-crossing tracks. Indeed, Hepworth explained that the addition of string represented
‘tension between myself and the sea,
the wind or the hills.
A connection between figure and landscape
and what happens when the two unite.’
The strings therefore tether Hepworth’s performers, pinning down her abstract forms like the Giant in ‘Gulliver’s Tales’. Even the coiling construction of ‘Curved Form (Wave II)’ is doubled over, steel rods suggesting both weightlessness and tensile strength. A breaking wave becomes a solid mass like the smooth hollow of a shell or deep cave.
Curved Form (Wave II), 1959, Bronze, part painted with steel rods, 50 x 60 x 35 cm, Collection Rachel Kidd
THEATRICAL TONE
As the exhibition proceeds and we lose ourselves in each undulating form, void and pierced plane, we study Hepworth’s performers closely. The works seem to move before our very eyes. Energy becomes visible as abstract forms emerge not just from the block but from rhythmic, musical folds. We witness their contortions as though a celebrated Big Top circus legend; feats of flexibility; ‘impossible’ gravity-defying balance and superhuman endurance. Instead of spotting beads of perspiration rolling from the forehead, caked behind the veil of a made-up face, we spy instead indents of the chisel, the veins of marble and even a crack like a streak of lightening spears ‘Tides II’.
Tides II, 1946, Wood, 34.5 x 46 x 27.5 cm, Collection Rachel Kidd
Highly influenced by dance, Hepworth took over the Palais de Danse in 1961. The site of the first cinema in St Ives, the building was once owned by William Pole-Tylney-Long-Wellesley, husband of Britain’s wealthiest heiress. Within this luxury of space, complete with a stage and long mirror reflecting each sculpture, Hepworth could literally ‘dance’ her work around, each piece on wheels to perfect the formation. A dance of wood, stone, marble and bronze.
Much larger than her studio at Trewyn, the Palais de Danse enabled Hepworth to complete works such as her public commission ‘Winged Figure’ for the John Lewis Oxford Street store in London. The maquette for this is displayed as part of ‘Art & Life’ though it would have been more impactful if a photograph of the final version were readily accessible for audiences to study. Perhaps that is what is missing from this exhibit – a showstopper, a larger-than-life outdoor sculpture to firmly justify Hepworth’s legacy.
Maquette for Winged Figure, 1957, Brass, Isopon and metal strings with concrete base, 55.9 x 24 x 27 cm, Wakefield Permanent Collection of Art
PERFORMATIVE QUALITY
We raise our eyes then to take in the leering form of ‘Torso I (Ulysses)’, one of the larger pieces in this show. Another connection to Greek classicism, it appears this work has been cast as the villain in this Act. The torso rises from its plinth as though a wavering ghost cast by a magic spell. Its bone-like hulk takes on the form of a blacksmith’s anvil, a Medieval artefact, or a primeval relic from a lost lair in the Dune franchise. Brooding over all, ‘Torso I (Ulysses)’ evokes the presence of Rothbart or Petipa’s Carabose. Complete with a hunchback-esque form, the surface of indents and pitted texture evokes volcanic pumice and may be considered akin to the warts and wrinkles of a classic stage ‘baddie’. A performative quality in striking contrast to Lluís Sert’s white arena.
Torso I (Ulysses), 1958, Bronze, 90 x 58 x 31 cm, Hepworth Estate
‘Curved Forms (Pavan)’ from 1956 rests close by like a flower opening or a piece of bleached coral. A Sleeping Beauty. Yet movement resides; repeating curves and harmonic folds in frothy white spin out in swirling loops from the centrifuge, like Odette performing her breathtaking fouettés.
Curved Form (Pavan), 1956, Impregnated plaster, painted, on an aluminium armature, 55 x 37 x 83 cm, Wakefield Council Permanent Art Collection
UNIVERSAL RHYTHMS & A CORNISH CODA
The show continues with ‘Singe Form (Chûn Quoit)’. Displayed against a backcloth of gently swaying plants in silhouette through a window, this sculpture evokes the Cornish landscape so influential for Hepworth’s practice and vision. The minimal oblong shape of this piece is a clear reference to the standing stones dotted throughout the southwest of England. Named after one of the best-preserved examples of Neolithic dolmens – the top ‘caps’ of the structure associated with a legend of giants playing quoits – this sculpture of guarded stillness resounds with the idea of a figure standing in a landscape.
Single Form (Chûn Quoit), 1961, Bronze, edition of 7
‘Art & Life’ shows us how Hepworth was inspired by the first moon landing and advances in technology but it is works like ‘Chûn Quoit’ which echo her sentiment:
‘ A totem, a Talisman, a kind of touchstone
for all that is of lasting value . . .
Something that would be valid at any time,
or would have been 2,000 or even 20,000 years ago.’
‘Single Form (Chûn Quoit)’ confirms how the Cornish landscape, its history and spirit is inherent to Hepworth’s handiwork. Once again, perhaps it would have been helpful to include photographs of dolmens or standing stones for the benefit of international visitors.
The calm and mysterious presence of ‘Single Form (Chûn Quiot)’ is echoed by the little assembly ‘Three Magic Stones’. These not only relate to ‘Corinthus’ and the idea of motherhood – a stone for each of the artist’s triplets with Ben Nicholson – but again show how Hepworth would draw influence from Cornish tradition.
These curiously slanted cubic-flanked stones of silver seem of cosmic origin. Placed in a vitrine they become artefacts from another world with an inexplicable magic force. Indeed, their polished silver surfaces reflect each other for eternity, like an otherworldly epilogue to ‘Alice Through The Looking Glass’. Alchemy is afoot. In a corner of England where folklore festivities are still celebrated; a land frequented by pirates, giants, and supposedly even King Arthur, a tale can be spun as to the mystical powers of these sacred charms. Is this piece evidence of a narrative behind all of the dancing dramatics?
Group of Three Magic Stones, 1973, Silver, 12 x 37 x 31.6 cm, Private Collection
A FITTING FINALE
In the closing scene ‘Sea Form (Porthmeor)’ makes its entrance. A fitting finale to this show prepositioned in the gentle hillside above Nice, the Cote d’Azur glinting in the distance. Rather like a piece of seaweed, this bronze looks about to dive in – we somehow believe it is sure to float! Gaping holes and curled edges recall organic strands of kelp, dried by the sun and wind, whether washed up along the Cornish tides or released from the Mediterranean’s ebb and flow.
Provence’s unmistakeable glow and Fondation Maeght’s proximity to the sea seem to rhyme with Hepworth’s working practice in St Ives. As she explained:
‘Every work in sculpture is …
either a figure I see, or a sensation I have,
whether in Yorkshire, Cornwall
or Greece, or the Mediterranean’.
Perhaps this is why this exhibition works so well. We feel the pull of the sea, the rush of the waves, perhaps even the cry of the seabirds and the sorcery of the stones – a universal connection to landscape.
Amidst turbulent times Hepworth’s primordial sculptures present a true escape from challenging events. ‘Art & Life’ is a unique opportunity to consider how the life of an artist is locked in a flowing waltz with Nature, death and ancient history. This exhibition is a dance, a swaying ring we can step into for an hour or two – a circular carole in the screeching square of unjust times.
The Yale Center for British Art (YCBA) heralds an unexpected duet following two and a half years of renovation. The refreshed third floor of Louis Kahn’s (1901 – 1974) sun-filled museum of planed wood, poured concrete and veiled Dutch linen is devoted to an orderly and mesmerising display of treasures by Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775 – 1851), highlights from Paul Mellon’s collection.
Yet visitors to the YCBA are welcomed into the impressive entrance foyer with a neon yellow script proclaiming ‘I Loved You Until The Morn Morning’ in a loose and slightly scribbled hand. This glowing remark or confessional statement is a fluorescent text piece by British artist Dame Tracey Emin (b. 1963). With the word ‘Morning’ first misspelt and crossed out, this artwork bears the title of Emin’s solo exhibition at the YCBA on the second floor.
Presented on a semi-industrial backdrop, Emin’s glowing fluorescent piece recalls sweethearts’ messages left in lipstick on a mirror, while the script itself the kind of graffiti we’d expect to see in school bathrooms or American locker rooms. A perfect spot for a cheeky selfie, this textural work of light also alludes to all the fun of the fair. Visitors from the UK may associate this piece with the sea-side vibe of amusement arcades, lighting up the esplanades of resorts all along the coast, gleaming like colourful pearls through grey mists and reflected in the ocean’s breath.
The nineteen large-scale paintings of Emin’s exhibition ‘I Loved You Until The Morning’ are autobiographical, referencing the artist’s recent battle with cancer as well as her experience of rape and abortion. Despite Emin’s exploits as one of the ringleaders of the Young British Artists championed by Saatchi in the ‘90s – along with her earlier controversial works ‘Everyone I have Ever Slept With’ of 1995 and ‘My Bed’ of 1998 – this exhibition demonstrates Emin’s commitment to painting.
ROMANCE & REALITY
Meanwhile, the ‘Romance and Reality’ exhibition follows the evolution of Turner’s work. In the 250th year of the anniversary of the birth of Turner it is only fitting that the largest collection of British art outside of the British Isles has opted to present a special exhibition of this master’s legacy.
We marvel at the extraordinary detail of Turner’s early works demonstrating the European influence of Claude Lorrain (1600 – 1682). His masterpiece ‘Dort or dordrecht: The Dort Packet-Boat from Rotterdam Becalmed’ of 1818, is a focus of this exhibition which also encompasses the artist’s only complete sketchbook located outside of the UK and a series of exquisite mezzotints. Finally, we are introduced to some of Turner’s later works, his seemingly abstract visions of light, smoke and water in paintings such as the somewhat amusingly titled ‘Squally Weather’ created between 1840 – 1845.
J.M.W. Turner, 'Squally Weather', 1840-5, Oil on paper laid on canvas
MARGATE, THE MUSE
However, during a visit to the YCBA, visitors may struggle to comprehend why Turner’s sublime works are presented in tandem with Emin’s emotionally charged canvases. Is it intentional that the Master of Margate is paired with our Dame, or it is merely a calendar cross-over? Although there appears little connection between Turner and Emin, even less to bridge the span of centuries, could it be that more than the salt streamed vista of Margate Sands unites this duo of exhibits?
Turner declared the skies of Thanet to be the ‘loveliest in all of Europe’ and this perhaps helps to explain his frequent visits to Margate. Within easy access of London, first by boat and then by train, Turner’s ‘love affair’ with this Cinque Port began in 1786. Aged 11, Turner was sent to live with his uncle, a fishmonger in the seaside town. Turner attended Thomas Coleman’s School until 1788; a Blue Plaque celebrates the formative years Turner spent here. Later, in the 1820s, Turner would make frequent visits back to Margate, staying at The Ship Inn owned by Mrs Sophia Booth.
Situated on Cold Harbour, Mrs. Booth’s guesthouse offered direct views of the expansive skies and sea. The Turner Contemporary museum, by David Chipperfield, was built in 2011 and is located on this very site. Following the death of Mr Booth, Turner and his landlady became long term companions. Local artist Ann Carrington’s sculpture ‘Shell Lady’ has looked out from the esplanade to the sea since 2008 – not only a nod to Margate’s mysterious shell grotto beneath its streets, but a meaningful tribute to Mrs Booth and her love for Turner.
Ann Carrington’s Shell Lady Sculpture 'Mrs Booth’ in Margate
The small watercolour simply titled ‘Margate’ from the series ‘Picturesque Views of the Southern Coast of England’ is displayed in the ‘Romance and Reality’ exhibition. This detailed watercolour demonstrates Turner’s deep connection with the town. Beneath an Azul sky of sprawling transparent clouds – a blue echoed in the cobalt patina of Carrington’s sculpture – the slight arc of the Georgian seafront frames the harbour and scores of men hauling a shipwreck onto the sand.
JMW Turner, 'Margate' (For Picturesque Views on the Southern Coast of England), c.1822, Watercolour.
You can spot windmills and the lighthouse on the Harbour Arm, which still stands today, whilst another merchant ship seems to lurch in the shallow water of the Bay. To the left, tall chalk white cliffs appear on the horizon, almost like the cliffs at Botany Bay, perhaps revealing Turner’s artistic license in this maritime scene?
The crumpled sail of a stricken ship appears strewn across the tideline. Saturated with brine, it lies like the scaly skin of a dead sea monster as the wreckers hastily salvage the galleon’s goods. Turner may have been illustrating the risks taken by sailors and merchants as they ensure the amenities expected by middle-class visitors are readily provided, thus hinting at Margate’s status as a fashionable destination. The seaside town is forever captured by Turner’s brush, the scale of this piece reminiscent of a sepia photograph. A historical moment captured in paint for William Bernard Cooke’s special publication.
Detail of 'Margate' (For Picturesque Views on the Southern Coast of England), c.1822, Watercolour.
'MAD TRACEY FROM MARGATE'
Like Turner, Emin was also born in London. She grew up with her twin brother Paul in Margate where her father owned a hotel on the seafront above the Winter Gardens. A manipulator of her own public image, Emin’s mythology as an artist is intertwined with Margate, as expressed in her 1999 ‘Mad Tracey From Margate’ documentary and memoir ‘Strangeland’.
A sense of nostalgia radiates from Margate; a postcard vision of Georgian charm pasted over with violence and decline parading as glamour. The town’s recent seedy seaside past – the once salubrious esplanade adorned with a beguiling clocktower and lido, awash with sex shops, anti-social behaviour and brash vulgarity – is synonymous with Emin’s own self-invention. Her boozy self-parody may be considered akin to that of Andy Warhol’s cunning act. Margate is more than just a muse to Emin. Margate is paramount to Emin’s identity, her raison d’être as much as her ability to place the spotlight on herself. Margate is Emin.
'I wanted to be Clean', 2020, Acrylic on canvas
For the most part, the works included in ‘I Loved You Until The Morning’ depict lone females in crawling, sitting or standing poses. Whilst the figure’s face is scrubbed out in ’Black Cat’ these females often seem unaware of the viewer, their gaze cast down at the suggestion of blood pouring form their bodies. They often seem caught unawares, such as in ‘I wanted to Be Clean’ where a nude figure stands under a shower spouting a red shroud enveloping the nude as though the membranous outline in a Medieval Icon. This perhaps contributes to the unsettling sense associated with these paintings; have we unintentionally stumbled upon the figures during very personal and emotional moments or are we creeping up and spying on them?
In a slightly similar fashion, Turner’s figures are depicted absorbed in various activities. His great merchant ships often seem to sail off into the distance, almost dissolving into the luminous seas and skies of the artist’s vision, off into the very weft and weave of the canvas itself.
'A Rose', Acrylic on canvas,
Emin’s painting ‘A Rose’ was once fondly titled ‘Turner Eat Your Heart Out’. Emin’s use of impasto and layers of thin acrylic creates an almost snowy appeal. The effect becomes synonymous with Turner’s atmospheric effects on the 3rd floor. However, there is a sharp jolt of red remaining from an earlier stage of the painting process. This appears like a stuck out tongue – an allusion to a sexual act – or indeed a fragile rose petal, swirling in a mist-clothed garden.
Taking centre stage, this smear of red may recall Turner’s antics at the Royal Academy in 1832. To the astonishment of the crowds Turner added a bright red buoy to his cool toned ‘Helvoetsluys Seascape’ so as not to be upstaged by Constable’s cadmium rich bridge scene hanging in close proximity. This moment is interpreted to great effect by Timothy Spall in Mike Leigh’s 2014 film ‘Mr Tuner’. The addition of the red spot brought Turner’s entire seascape into new focus and it certainly seems like Emin was inspired by this story! Here, her reference to Turner is a playful one, welcome light-hearted relief from the frankness and unsettling honesty of some of the other paintings presented in the exhibit.
Detail of 'A Rose'
‘A Rose’ indicates there may be more at play between the ‘Masters of Margate’ than just the time each artist has spent in a historic fishing town. ‘Romance and Reality’ juxtaposed with ‘I Loved You Until The Morning’ enables us to see how Turner’s painting technique and ability to make a statement has inspired Emin – a factor which certainly could have been emphasised in the contextualisation of these con-current exhibitions.
ALLURE OF aMERICAN ABSTRACTION
'From the Mountain to the Lake', 2022, Acrylic on canvas
We are perhaps caught a little off-guard by Emin’s ‘From the Mountains to The Lake’. With no hint of red, this work strikes a different chord. It is as though the female form becomes the landscape, the light watery wash reminiscent of Turner’s thin layers of glaze, echoing how he would often thinly apply oil paint as though handling watercolour. Whilst the limbs and buttocks of Emin’s figure are outlined in deft brushstrokes, the upper body merges into the landscape beyond.
Detail of 'From the Mountain to the Lake'
Meanwhile, the title of this work may reference the American abstract painter Helen Frankenthaler’s (1928 – 2011) ‘Mountain and Sea’ of 1952 – an interesting interpretation considering ‘I Loved You Until The Morning’ is Emin’s first Museum show in the United States. Mountains are often associated with transcendence and the notion of receiving a ‘higher wisdom’. Emin’s figure appears to crawl towards this vision, perhaps emerging from the depths of a lake and the tangle of pondweed to the majesty and serenity of the mountain; is this the artist on her own journey towards enlightenment?
But it is not just echoes of Frankenthaler we see in Emin’s paintings. Undoubtedly there is a strong connection to the work of American artist Cy Twombly (1928 – 2011). From Emin’s whitewash effect and colour palette to her definite – confident – brush marks, there is a strong resemblance to Twombly’s own paintings inspired by Greek classicism. Even the text embedded into Emin’s canvases, sometimes half hidden behind ghostly layers of paint, as in ‘I Followed You Until the End’, where the bride’s dress becomes a sea of prose, reminds us of the daily ritual of ‘journaling’ and can be considered a direct reference to Twombly’s own inclusion of written prose.
'I Followed You Until the End', Acrylic on canvas
With influences of Frankenthaler and Twombly alongside inspirations of Turner, it’s clear that ‘I Loved You Until the Morning’ has been curated with the expectations and visual language American audiences can readily connect with. This enables a sympathetic reading of Emin’s work and her personal struggles in spite of her ‘Mad Tracey of Margate’ persona.
Installation view of 'Hurricane'
POETRY & PROSE
Writing is an integral part of Emin’s practice and the special publication for Turner’s ‘Romance and Reality’ exhibition contains a fold-out love letter from Emin. Almost like a secret pact between the two artists, Emin emotionally, melancholically, writes about the magnetic pull of Margate, its ‘grey sky’, ‘Prussian blue deep’ sea like ‘walking on flat ice cold sand’. A beautiful and meaningful way to tie these two exhibitions together, it would have been more impactful and successful if Emin’s ‘Love Letter’ was actually part of the display rather than hidden in the gift shop.
Despite T.S Eliot’s (1888 – 1965) belief that he cannot connect one thing to another on Margate Sands, it seems that both artists transform intense personal experience into paintings with universal appeal. Eliot composed a section of the ‘Wasteland’ whilst taking refuge from the bright sun at the Nayland Rock shelter along the seafront at Margate and presents us with a fragmented, fractured vision of civilisation. Margate appears as a broken and dysfunctional place in his portrayal of declining human history. An abandoned place where nothing quite adds up. However, it would seem that the work of Turner and Emin does share a common spark, a thread of connectivity across two centuries.
SOAP SUDS
'Staffa, Fingal's Cave', 1832, Oil on canvas
Turner’s dramatic painting ‘Staffa, Fingal’s Cave’ is another highlight of the ‘Romance and Reality’ exhibition. We are presented with the artist’s personal experience of Scotland’s infamous caves, the ancient geological marvel of vertical basalt stacks glowing in the sunset as a reminder of its volcanic origin. We can almost hear the wistful melody of Mendelssohn’s (1809 – 1847) ’Overture from the Hebrides’ or ‘Fingal’s Cave’ as we take in the scene. With the timeless appeal of the low-lying sun and geological wonders, there is a sense of spiritual connection to the Natural world – the clouds appear to part as if a divine light radiates from the saturated sky.
These towering clouds dwarf the silhouette of a steamship which most likely brought visitors such as Turner to this very site. However, soot and smoke belch from the ship and stain the sky as though in an effort to rival Nature’s own creations – a symbol of the Industrial Revolution. The first work of Turner’s to have entered an American collection in 1845 when purchased by the New York collector James Lennox, Turner almost prophesies today’s climate change crisis.
'Stormy Sea Breaking On A Shore' 1840 - 5, Oil on canvas
Once derided by critics as ‘soap-suds’, Turner’s 1845 oil painting ’Stormy Sea Breaking on a Shore’ captures the moment a single wave crashes across the horizon, sending spray flying through the cloud-thronged air. We can almost taste the salt on our lips and feel the cool brush of the wind as we study each fleck of froth. Bemusing critics and the public alike, Turner sought to faithfully render the grandeur and power of nature, rather than offer a beautified or purely romanticised version. The turbulent layers of paint show a deep sense of respect for the wild, uncontrollable power of the sea, whilst hinting at human frailty and insignificance.
Meglip may have been added to provide a sculptural quality to the piece, though evidence of this would have been lost during early restoration work. The painting would have been completed around the time that Turner is believed to have tied himself to the mast of a ship for four hours to experience stormy conditions firsthand. This act of extreme research enabled Turner to find a universal truth in this personal experience – we can only imagine how terrifying this must have been!
However, as an unlikely feat for someone in their sixties, no solid evidence has been found to confirm Turner’s experiment. Either way, this famous narrative of British art history does set Turner apart from his contemporaries. Is this story an act of self-mythologising? An added layer to a life lived in paint? A strategic way to bolster the critics’ claims that Turner was a madman?
MASTERS OF MARGATE
'A Ship Approaching Margate Harbour In A Stormy Sea', c.1840, Watercolour and graphite
Both exhibitions remind us that painting is always full of stories. As the great ecological emergencies of our time plunge us into a challenging and uncertain future, Turner’s paintings are a stark reminder of the beauty, the power of Nature and the natural world upon which we rely.
'You Kept It Coming', 2019, Acrylic on canvas
As we watch genocide unfold in the middle east, Emin’s exhibition also comes at a crucially timely moment. Her use of red becomes the blood and gore, the pain and suffering of war as well as a record of personal trauma. In ‘You kept It Coming’ a female figure crawls on her hands and knees as though through an abyss. Do we feel helpless in front of these works? We may wish to run up and embrace Emin’s figure, vulnerable and alone, or blot out the toxic smokestack beside Turner’s Fingal’s Cave, to save humanity and Nature from the trauma of the brush.
Installation view of 'I Loved You Until The Morning'
At a time when the very principles of democracy are threatened and the rights of women are eroded and curtailed, it is admirable that the YCBA has staged this exhibition of Emin, an artist who has very publicly shared her experiences of having an abortion. The abortion, of course, being the very birth of Emin’s art practice – her gift to us – rather than becoming as she once put it, ’another single mother’.
Viewed in its entirety ’I Loved you Until the Morning’ could be considered a transfiguration of the artist’s 1998 unmade bed: strewn panties transposed into poetical prose; the dribble of an empty vodka bottle now the drops and drips of paint. Creased and crusty bed linens resurrected as scrubbed brush marks of generous layers of acrylic. The imprint of the artist’s own body, once laid amongst the detritus of pain and turmoil, is now present in the form of Emin’s own fingerprints and faint signature – displayed at the bottom of each work in light pencil. If Emin’s bed was the cocoon for a moth drawn to the flame of fame, these canvases are chrysalides for a kaleidoscope of butterflies. A metamorphosis of rebirth. We witness figures struggling to emerge from the paint, female forms being born from the womb of violence and loss into the realm of the spirit.
The turbulence and frantic brush marks of Emin’s nudes also allude to the moody, atmospheric effects of Turner’s paintings. Figures crumple like the clouds above Turner’s landscapes; pools of blood spread like the glowing light in sunset depiction. Emin’s emotional works mirror the weather and the tension of Turner’s paintings, possibly highlighting our human connection to the natural elements of sea, light, sky and air. An expression which is perhaps physically experienced in a place such as Margate, where expansive skies meet a seemingly endless spread of sea.
Installation View of 'Romance & Reality'
With the success of ‘Mr Turner’ (though not actually filmed in Margate but Cornwall’s Kingsand) surely it will soon be Emin’s turn to make her debut on the silver screen? After all, Emin’s story has it all – rebellion, trauma, a dance with death and the hope of an incredible recovery. Furthermore, Emin’s story even offers An American Happy Ending, of candy cotton fuzz as she becomes a ‘hometown proud’ pillar of the community of Margate.
Pouring their lives into their work, both Turner and Emin somehow ‘fit’ our ideals of what an artist should be. Visionary, daring and generous in spirit.
At the time of his death, Turner bequeathed over 100 finished paintings, almost 200 unfinished works and around 20,000 sketches to the British public. Emin of course has established her Foundation, two artist residence programmes, the TKE studios as well as gifting properties to local businesses in Margate. She has been largely responsible for the uptick of cultural flair the town currently has to offer. With its entertainment park ‘Dreamland’ riffing off the United State’s Coney Island, Margate is now a place for dreaming, for cultural connections. A muse rising from the ashes of its own nostalgia.
Only in the USA is there the cultural foresight for such an exciting duet of exhibitions. This con-current spark of curatorial brilliance illustrates how the YCBA is already leaving the political and identity concerns which have befallen the art world of late. Displayed in tandem, the work of Turner and Emin reveals how Britain’s painting legacy continues to go from strength to strength.
Linda Bell was invited to write an Introduction to ‘Enchanted’, Katy Brown’s solo exhibition of new abstract paintings presented by the Russell Gallery in Putney, London. This exhibition runs from 29th May – 21st June 2025.
Where a winding river meets the turbulent tides of a vast Ocean lies the Earldom of Mount Edgcumbe. Above secluded beaches and smugglers’ coves formal gardens of yew and rose intersperse mystical oak and camellia forests. Verdant terrace lawns sweep down from the pink-hued ancestral Tudor home to the waters’ edge. Open skies, wind, war and waves have all left their mark upon this ancient kingdom. And it is here, nestled within the parkland of deer and duckponds, alpaca, butterfly, bat and bee reserves that Katy Brown casts her magic on to canvas.
Claude Lorrain 'Capriccio with Ruins of The Roman Forum' 1634, Image Courtesy of Obelisk Art History
Katy’s influences can be traced back to the varnished grandeur of epically proportioned landscape paintings by Claude Lorrain (1600 – 1682) and Nicolas Poussain (1594 – 1665). Depicted in luminous vistas, ruins of Rome and ancient antiquity allude to classical, formal perfection. Katy revisits such Arcadian portrayals; only instead of expansive landscapes punctuated with doric-pillared follies to shelter frolicking gods – Apollo, Diana, Minerva – we instead perceive the impression of lush meadows, bronze-toned puddles, silent mists and wave-worn pebbles.
In works such as ‘Sacred Trees’ and ‘Where The Nymphs Play’, Katy reimagines the tradition of landscape painting and captures fleeting, ephemeral moments. She elevates and enrobes the contemporary estate of Mount Edgecumbe in the majesty of antiquity.
Where The Nymphs Play
Blue Cadence (Ode To Frankenthaler)
Meanwhile, ‘Blue Cadence (Ode to Frankenthaler)’ pays tribute to the seminal 1955 painting ‘Mountains and Sea’ by Helen Frankenthaler (1928 – 2011). Katy’s turquoise blue is thin, like a wash of aquamarine watercolour imbuing Frankenthaler’s ‘stain technique’. However, Katy’s handling of colour is more intense, her experiences of coastal living possibly echoed in the work. A wave rushes up, as though a giant swell of paint about to crash within the dimension of the canvas. Even the sparse layering of ‘Promise Of May’ displays echoes of Frankenthaler’s style, whilst Katy’s fresh tones and composition allude to the opening of buds and the breath of new life. A close-up of a plant unfurling, yet an entire landscape proposed within a single brush mark.
Promise Of May
Yet how should we interpret
the scale and proportions
of this painterly world?
Katy’s focus into the little details of her surroundings is almost Ruskinian in approach. She delicately renders the twists of overhanging branches in ‘Leafy Boughs (Mount Edgcumbe)’; a dense network of individual brushworks becomes a lively thicket in ‘A Gentle Breeze’ and a lush flower border in ‘Amongst the Starflowers’ all seem akin to John Ruskin’s (1819 – 1900) elaborate Victorian studies of rocks and ferns. Flecks and clouds of ochre in these pieces are inspired by tones of Jersey Granite, geological charms collected from Katy’s birthplace.
Amongst The Angels
Even tufts of grass-like marks make a sort of fairy ring or entrance portal in ‘Amongst the Angels’. Whilst golden shades take on a soft yet subversive, divine disposition, the mineral rich sheen of a miniscule chip of Cornish Amethyst lends its lustrous appeal to the glistening path and pearlescent flower-like forms of ‘The Earl’s Garden’. Katy scrutinises quiet little details easily overlooked in everyday existence. Forms, colours and textures are explored to become the nuclei of new, painterly worlds.
The Earls Garden
Such delicate details make their presence known, rising up to the surface through iridescent hazes of colour as in ‘Fairy Realm’. It is from these brush marks, the way one colour layers over another in a nuanced fashion that the whole tapestry of each painting is woven. From one incidental mark Katy conjures a whole kingdom with its own identity and rules and physical place in space – an actuality in the fabric of existence.
Fairy Realm
We crawl through the undergrowth of ‘In The Glen’, a dense grove of layered golden greens, shadows cast with rich umber. We wade through the suggestion of rock pools in ‘Enchanted (Mount Edgcumbe Parklands)’, then criss-cross the impression of sunlit gardens beyond, shifting pale rustic pinks in the distance. We can almost breathe in the vapourish essence of ‘A Gentle Breeze’ and ‘Mercurial Patterns’, streaks of frost and dew reminiscent of damp mountain mists settling upon the craggy slopes of Oriental scrolls.
In The Glen
We venture through shimmering brushstrokes in works such as ‘Earth In Tones’ and ‘Mercurial Sky’ where seemingly endless veils of tonal contrasts radiate softly, as nuanced as a sea-mist sunrise. The activity of ‘inhabiting’ Katy’s paintings enables the inner life of the work to emerge. Unification of sublime grandeur and intense detail gives an identity to each painting. We navigate these hybrid worlds, these Chopin Nocturnes conducted in paint, ripples of sound now a wash of cerulean or carnelian, delicate lullabies on canvas.
Mapping out historic gardens, atmospheric skies, plant-like forms and eldritch coastlines, we too can join Katy in the familiar terrain of her native Jersey and her Cornish home; a shared appeal of place. An appeal of wild beaches, sea-salty air and misty forest glades festooned with swathes of incandescent bluebells.
Mercurial Patterns
Even Katy’s studio, the Old Cricket Pavilion of Mount Edgcumbe, becomes an extension of such loci and tiny incidences; flowers lilting on the breeze gathered under a gnarly tree; kelp forests swathed by a fog-bound tide; water eddies gushing out from behind a moss-laden, sun-dried stone. Katy’s work is a portal to such kingdoms of existence and memories of specific moments across the vast plane of the changing of seasons.
These are tangible places. Believable and actual in their painterly physicality – where the feel of the brushy texture of grass, the silk of catkins and the spike of hawthorn and rose are evident; yet seemingly as fragile as a dreamscape in our subconscious.
Katy’s paintings are places where fairies and mermaids could well dwell, where giants may hurl islands for stepping stones and perhaps nymphs can play in the cool, sparking waters of ‘Leafy Banks’.
Leafy Banks
Yet these apparitions are only ever suggested, just as the legends and folklore alluding to such sightings wander into the otherworldly and the frontiers of the undocumented. Katy’s paintings fill this void: a void which abstraction can sustain.
Just as the stars hung in the night sky are more than mere decorations sparkling in a velvet dome, these are paintings which enthral our imagination. The fluttering of fairies’ wings is perhaps implied, the lair of a frog prince evoked, whilst watery reflections and a symmetrical elipse in ‘Earthen Portal’ may remind us of a mirror –
‘Mirror, Mirror upon the wall. . .’
Earthen Portal
Katy’s search through layers of paint uncovers the possibility of a mystical awakening and glimpses of folklore. Layers of glazes, smudges of pigment and traces of what has been rubbed away – like the ghostly watermarks on a tide line – invite us into a world that feels strangely familiar and yet oddly new. With her brushes and mediums, the tools of her sorcery, Katy lifts the veil from what is absent in our everyday. She reveals what is and has always been there, beyond the reaches of our quotidian prism.
We enter a secret, even sacred realm.
A realm of the Enchanted.
Could there be a more happily everafter?
Katy Brown‘s solo exhibition ‘Enchanted’ continues at the Russell Gallery until 21st June. All visitors will be made very welcome!
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We’ re thrilled to feature The Silk Collection in this Pendour Living post! Linda Bell recently took a fancy to their sumptuous silk eye masks and pillowcases; here is her Pendour Purchase review.
Watch her unbox her silky new arrivals in the video below!
HYPNOS HYPE
Forget The Sandman, Ole Lukoje and Wee Willie Winkie!
The latest Hypnos (the kindly Greek god of sleep) is The Silk Collection!
A sculpture of Hypnos, the Greek god of sleep, courtesy Shrine of Hypnos
“O, Hypnos,
divine repose of all things!
Gentlest of the deities!
Peace to the the troubled mind,
from which you drive the cares of life.
Restorer of men’s strength
when wearied with the toils of day.”
~ Ovid, Metamorphoses, Book XI (1 AD)
Far from the ambience of a dark, silent grotto of poppies surrounding a bed of ebony (Hypnos’ lair on the Greek Island of Lemnos), The Silk Collection reinvigorates our daily journey through the Gates of Horn and Ivory and into the world of dreams. . . . . .
The Silk Collection’s wonderful products elevate the everyday ritual of sleep so that in our contemporary age a good night’s rest is something we can take great pleasure and indulge in!
FROM SLUMBER WITH LOVE
An independent, London based luxury lifestyle brand, The Silk Collection offers high quality products at affordable prices to aid rest and relaxation.
Established during the Covid Pandemic, The Silk Collection enabled friends and family to send special self-care gifts to one another to show their support during lockdown. Fast forward to 2025 and The Silk Collection is having a moment to shine as lustrous as their silk hair ribbons and robes!
Indulge in the soft splendour
of sublime silk :
A safe-care essential!
With a well curated online presence, I discovered this wonderful company when researching the benefits of silk for skin and even the environment, compared to non-compostable synthetic fabrics.
Showcasing an array of stylish eye masks, hair bonnets, pillowcases and more, I instantly admired The Silk Collection’s overall, no-fuss image and outstanding reviews. A 10% welcome discount also helped to seal the deal!
I had previously ordered an eye mask and pillowcases from another online company, but they never updated me as to the delay in receiving my order which then never arrived. I had to keep chasing them to receive a refund. As such, I was a little nervous at first to purchase these products, but I’m so pleased to say that The Silk Collection has far exceeded my expectations in absolutely every single way!
The Silk Collection very quickly dispatched my order and when tracking with Royal Mail I realised it was due to arrive at my home address before I was! I was able track and delay delivery easily but it just goes to show how organised and efficient The Silk Collection is when it comes to customer service. Small independent businesses like this really go the extra mile with the added personal touch!
PRESENTATION PACKAGING
Two gorgeous boxes of duck-egg blue safely cased my lovely new products – a look fit for royalty! The minimal aesthetic of these slim line boxes displays The Silk Collection logo. Inside, the silk mask and pillowcases were protected by a sleeve of crisp tissue paper. The colour and overall feel oozes luxury and refinement – even the experience of unboxing your silky new arrival is elevated and special, a moment to be enjoyed!
This presentation packaging is perfect if you wish to treat a friend or family member to a little self-care something, but be warned! You may fall in love with this gift yourself. . . .
The Silk Collection offers a variety of Gift Bundles, as well as a handpicked Bridal offering, so you can mix and match your favourite products but also save a few pennies too!! I wonder if they may soon release silk hair ribbons for children too?
The graceful blue boxes were placed in a larger cardboard delivery box and cushioned by little ‘foam’ noodles. These packaging noodles are water soluble and easily dissolve – much kinder to the environment than any plastic or polystyrene based packaging!
Overall, I was very impressed by The Silk Collection’s highly manicured and eco-friendly packaging choices. The complete absence of plastic stresses the luscious appeal of this brand and highlights the quality of its wonderful products.
AS SOFT AS SILK
The Silk Collection predominately uses 22 momme, 100% mulberry silk for its stylish goods. This type of silk is very highly quality and it really shows!
I was first struck by just how smooth and soft the silk felt lightly running my fingertips over the mask. The fine weft and warp of this fabric is so delicate!
The silk really shimmers in the light, it’s so captivating and a delight to admire! Both the lustrous look and touch owe their beautiful appeal to the high weight, or momme, used to weave the silk for this mask.
Anything under 20 momme is usually considered lightweight silk and The Silk Collection‘s use of 22 momme is a midweight weave. Anything over 28 is categorised as heavy silk; the higher the number, the thicker the yarns and the more yarns have been used per square cm in a tighter weave. 22 Momme uses 16% more silk than 19 momme, making it more durable and luxurious.
My silk eye mask in pearl white feels plush and exquisitely made. I had previously used a silk eye mask several years ago, but the stitching and lustre would have been no match for The Silk Collection’s offering!
The silk eye mask really is perfect – the shape fully covers your eyes and much of your cheeks and also wraps around the side of the face. The amount of silk padding is generous, cushioning your eyes for beauty sleep without being too restrictive or feeling too heavy on your face!
Matching the look and feel of the eye covering, the elastic head band is also enrobed in soothing silk. Initially a little tight for me when lying down, I noticed after about a weeks’ wear that it started to expand slightly. I also think a gentle handwash using The Clothes Doctor silk and delicates detergent helped to loosen this up a little!
As you can see, I went for the timeless snowy pearl white shade, but The Silk Collection’s eye mask is available in a whole rainbow of colours – from emerald green to champagne, French navy and even pistachio – so there’s a shade to suit every personal taste and style!
Boasting the same high quality as the eye mask, the pair of silk pillowcases are also expertly crafted and feel just as luxe! With no zipper, the pure silk can be slipped over your pillow and lightly secured with a little sleeve, precenting your pillow from gliding out during the night.
Even the little duck egg blue label continues the branding and presentation packaging theme, which is a very sophisticated touch! Carefully stitched and placed, it does not disrupt the streamline aesthetic of the product.
Gloriously soft, the silk feels so sumptuous against your skin – cooling and smoothly delightful!
THE SILK ROUTES
Favoured across the centuries for its shiny shimmer and lightweight, floaty quality, entire kingdoms and civilisations have been shaped by the trade of silk!
From around 130 BC a network of trade routes between X’ian in China and Rome in Italy enabled silk to be transported westwards from China and for wool, spices, gold and silver to travel east. Silk became a highly sought after textile – China was even known as ‘Seres’ by the ancient Greeks, which means ‘the land where silk comes from’!
Spanning over 6,400 Km across the Takla Makan Desert, the Pamir mountains, Afghanistan and even the Mediterranean Sea via ships, these routes helped to shape the modern world. The trade of silk encouraged the sharing of ideas and traditions, the cross-fertilisation of culture, music, architecture, art, religion and language across different civilisations. The trade of silk broadened our understanding of the world.
Even the the closure of the ancient Silk Routes in 1453 by the Ottoman Empire at the fall of Byzantium initiated the Age of Discovery. Tradesmen began to take to the Oceans to transport goods instead of across land, leading to the discovery of the Americas and ‘The New World’.
It is impossible to imagine the development of the modern world without the impact and demand for silk!
HYDRATED SKIN
Silk has so many benefits for your skin!
Its smooth, almost slippery texture means that your skin easily glides over the surface of the fabric as you move in your sleep. This significantly reduces the amount of friction compared to a standard pillowcase, which can cause abrasion and the delicate skin on the face to crease. Wearing a silk mask or lying on a silk pillowcase reduces skin tugging and so can help to prevent wrinkles developing over time.
Silk fibres are protein based and so less absorbent than the cotton or synthetic fabrics used in standard pillowcases. They absorb less moisture from your skin whilst you sleep, helping to keep skin hydrated and looking firm and plump in the morning!
And as silk is less absorbent, it helps to keep any face creams or oils, such as Ella Organic’s Overnight Treatment, from soaking in to your pillowcase. This means skincare products can work their magic on your face rather than all the goodness of your routine being rubbed into your pillow!
Hypoallergenic, silk is a natural fibre and favoured by dermatologists. It’s great for sensitive skin so you can rest easy, knowing you’ll look radiant and hydrated in the morning!
Healthy Hair
The hydrating properties of silk don’t just do it for your skin, they also help to banish ‘bed-head’!
As silk is less absorbent than cotton or synthetic materials, it helps to retain moisture in your hair as you sleep, stopping it from drying out and getting its frizz on!
The smoothing properties of silk also enable hair to glide over the surface, reducing tugging and pulling as you move in your sleep. All this friction can cause hair to become tangled, leading to the hair shafts becoming weak and damaged. The Silk Collection’s 100% mulberry, 22 momme silk pillowcase and cutesy hair scrunchies help to prevent friction to reduce frizz and damage. Your hair stylist will thank you!
The Silk Collection also offers hair bonnets to help keep your new style in tact as you enjoy some shut-eye. Their heatless hair curlers come in two different sizes and enable hair to be styled without the use of damaging blow dryers or curlers. Meanwhile, The Silk Collection’s scrunchies and head bands stop hair breakage throughout the day.
enhanced sleep
The new Hypnos of slumber, The Silk Collection softens skin and hair for a sumptuous sleep!
Naturally thermo-regulating, silk is light and breathable, helping to regulate body temperature and moisture. Silk can offer cooling properties in the summer and comfort during the winter. This all helps towards a good night’s sleep, whatever the season!
For those with sensitive skin, silk is hypoallergenic, meaning it does not cause irritation or discomfort. Unlike synthetic fabrics and cotton, it is naturally resistant to dust, mites and mould.
The luxurious feel of silk offers unparalleled comfort. Its soft and smoothing texture aids relaxation and elevates your sleep routine, perhaps to match that of the god of sleep and dreams!
OEKO-TEK & ECO
All of The Silk Collection’s products are OEKO-TEX® approved. This means they have been validated by a set of third-party certifications to ensure that they do not consist of any harmful chemicals that are toxic for humans or wider eco-systems.
Displaying the STANDARD 100 label and logo means that every component of The Silk Collection’s pillowcases have been succesfully tested for the absence of harmful substances. The chemicals tested for are both regulated and un-regulated and in many cases the limits are more stringent than any national thresholds. New scientific knowledge and requirements are taken into account, helping brands to stay on top of the latest fabric toxicity data.
Using an outside body for valuation gives confidence to consumers so that they can sleep easy, knowing that The Silk Collection’s operations and products have been checked against a strict set of regulations. The Silk Collection’s customers can therefore be assured that they are buying a safe product which has a ‘transparent value-creation chain’ with improved sustainable production.
Ahimsa Silk, courtesy of Her Zindagi
However, it would be good to know more about the Silk Collection’s production and manufacturing processes, such as how their silk is harvested and the working conditions for those who manufacture their delightful products.
Ahimsa, or ‘Peace Silk’ is a method of harvesting which enables the silk worm to complete metamorphosis into the moth stage of its life cycle. Unlike traditional silk production, whereby the cocoons are boiled as soon as the cocoon is completed, killing off the paupe, no insects are harmed in the Ahimsa method, the cocoon harvested only after the moth has hatched and flown away! Of course Ahimsa silk does come with a loftier price tag, but the manufacture of silk is a complex process dating back thousands of years. It would be wonderful to think that The Silk Collection use this method of harvesting silk, but no information on this is provided on their website.
Similarly, no information is given as to where the products are actually made and the working conditions for those who made them.
Furthermore, there is no suggestion that The Silk Collection off-set their carbon footprint in any way, which is always an important consideration when shopping online!
silk care
Each product comes with a little card offering tips on how to wash The Silk Collection’s luxury self-care items. It is recommended to use a silk-friendly detergent – I always use The Clothes Doctor because of their plastic-free and eco-friendly credentials!
I have also found that after hand washing it’s beneficial to squeeze out any excess water, though it’s important not to twist or wring the fabric, as this can disrupt the protein based fibres of the silk. Placing the wet silk on top of a clean towel may help to absorb the moisture and speed up in-shade drying!
Note : Don’t leave your silks to dry on any wooden furniture or chair arms, as this seems to leave a stain on the silk!
I’ve also read that adding a few drops of white wine vinegar can help to maintain the lustre of silk, I’ve never tried this, but if you have, let us know how it worked in the comments below!
A 'MIND'FUL MOMENT
5% Of all of The Silk Collection’s profits are donated to the mental health charity Mind. Therefore, every self-care purchase helps to raise awareness for mental health and helps others in need!
FRIZZ & FRICTION FREE
So how have I got on with my silky new arrivals?!
Well I have found that wearing the silk eye mask has been helping me to drift off much more quickly with fewer tosses and turns. As I do travel quite a bit the eye mask has become a reassuring element to my sleep routine – no matter what kind of room, bed or even country I’m in it offers a sense of familiarity and continuity, contributing to a more restful bedtime!
Wearing the mask has also enabled me to fall asleep even if my partner is still reading with the light on!
Even after a short time of dosing off with the mask on each night I have noticed that the creases around my eye area are not quite so prominent. I do think that the silk helps any creams and ointments to soak in and stops my skin from tugging or being ‘weighed down’ by sleeping on my side.
The silk pillowcase has definitely reduced the knots in my hair and I’ve certainly noticed less need for my frizz-ease shampoo lately!
Overall, I feel my skin appears smoother and plumper since elevating my sleep routine!
A PENDOUR PAMPER P.S.
Ready for some serious sleeping?!
Hit snooze and embrace the the silk! The Silk Collection’s gorgeous eye masks and pillowcases really make you feel like royalty or a film star as you drift off!
Sleep becomes something sacred, aided by the healing powers of silk : adorn yourself with the sumptuous eye mask, lay your head on this magical fabric. Such preparations and rituals have quickly become paramount to ensure total rest – to recover, unwind and dream!
The Silk collection really highlights the importance of sleep and celebrates the joys of this daily ritual. I can’t wait to shop with them again and try out some of their hair scrunchies and curlers!
PENDOUR PAIRING
Liang Shaoji
Beds/Nature Series No.10
1993-2018, Charred copper, silk and cocoons. Dimensions variable.
Of course we had to pair The Silk Collection with Liang Shaoji’s ongoing exploration of the silk worm. Not only a creative medium for his mystical installations, the silk worm is Laing’s spiritual guide.
In this piece, the delicate bed-shaped structures of twisted copper from old generators are swathed in translucent drapes of silk, like babies’ cradles of swaddled blankets, or sheets wrapped over injured soldiers. Whilst the theme of bed and hence the allusion to sleep align perfectly with The Silk Collection’s ideals, Liang’s use of silk taps into the rich reservoirs of ancient art and ancient Chinese traditions, offering an interplay between materiality, light, time, life and death.
Do silkworms dream? Perhaps Hypnos also leads their journeys through the gates of the dream world?
(Gentleman’s House with tower in the fashion of a palace’)
AN ITALIAN WELCOME
Skip back to the 15th century and enjoy a night or more of Italian luxury at Villa Rucellai!
Through the gates and up the winding levels of the hillside this turreted mansion transports guests to the fuzzy realms of a sepia photograph.
That, or the lucid mirage of a creased and dog-eared watercolour study on the back pages of a European Grand Tour folio.
Draped in wisteria the large windows, chimney stack and sand-coloured walls are haloed by a rooftop belfry. Arranged in a rough ‘L’ shape the entrance is shielded from the strong summer sun.
Ferns and plants with curling leaves unfurl wabi sabi up the ancient stone staircase. A set of glass doors leads into the imposing vortex of the entrance hall. Akin to the honey-coloured hue of a beehive’s heart, a rustic gold warms and refreshes. Illuminated leaves of a lemon tree dance in piercing shafts of light as bands of white slide down in diagonals, contrasting the curving vaults of the historic ceiling high above the harpsichord and harp. These first impressions magically transport you to the vision of a bygone age.
Your time travelling expedition into this lair of Renaissance Italy is consummated with a fine Italian welcome. No photocopier or computer in sight, your details and passport number are manually entered by hand into a yellowing, deep bound ledger, seemingly from another world. Revel in the scratchy patience, the calligraphic loops of each letter inviting you deeper into this dream of decadence.
And in the spirit of oldy-world-y time keeping, be sure to note your arrival time as accurately as you can when you make your booking to ensure preparations are finished in your personal part of this palace!
CAMERA DA LETTO
Spacious and cooling rooms are ornately furnished with antique and traditional marquetry furniture. From the grandiose vanity tables enlayed with ormolu detailing to the chaise longue, the bedrooms sparkle with opulence and Italian charm. Magnificent looking-glasses will make you wish you had diamonds and Cinderella slippers for the leading role in a period film or mysterious novelette!
With no televisions to ruin the look and sense of escape from the 24/7 stream, even the wifi is a tad patchy so you can finally finish that chapter in your book or write postcards to tell your friends all about staying in a palacial hotel!
As the velvet of night begins to fall, the gentle sounds of the water jets outside merge with the soft ambient lighting, a stately setting for sweet slumber!
EXPLORE THE ROOMS & GROUNDS
The open space of the entrance hall contrasts with the decadence of Villa Rucellai’s lounge. From the chandeliers above to the carpets below, there is a feast for the eyes!
Gasp in wonder at treasures from days gone by. Framed engravings and watercolours all add a personal, human element to the opulent finery. Intaglio prints and limited edition portraits all tell stories of Italian life and culture.
Help yourself to a drink from the mini-fridge honesty bar!
Sip as you slip outside to sit on the historic balcony and admire the views framed by the ancient stone archways. Feel like a duke or duchess from long ago as you survey the rolling hills stretching into the distance. Under blue skies this reverie into a bygone age is broken only by the rattle of a passing train in the distance beyond the proud, sentinel Cyprus trees.
Take a stroll through the gardens, admiring the Del Tovaglia coat of arms still displayed above the door on the southern facade. Elegant statues intersperse the blossoming roses and lemon trees, all thoughtfully arranged. Gateways and viewing platforms lend an essence of majesty and hint towards secrets of romantic rondez-vous as though fleeting memories.
Garden View
View of the Villa's Garden
Look out for statues adorning the garden's walkways
SILENCIO
An elusive sense of soft, still silence eminates from Villa Rucellai. A sense of silence which rests in the creases of the curtain drapes and shifts with the shadows, sweeping across one framed mezzotint to the next.
A sense of silence which hides in the backs of chairs and the arches of a stringless harp. A silence which follows the curves of the picturesque archways on the balcony before vanishing into the manicured landscape below.
PENDOUR PRO-TIP
Take the bus into Firenze for a further history boost! Staying a little further away from the city saves navigating so much traffic, and you can still enjoy the peace and quiet of the Italian countryside – the best of both worlds! Plus, you get to enjoy the view of the city, rather than just the views from within the city!
Flixbuses depart from Prato Piazzale Del Museo frequently throughout the day, it’s only a 15 minute ride into Florence! If you don’t have a car rental for this Park & Ride, take a taxi into Prato, or enjoy the hour and a half walk from the villa to the bus stop!
Excited to make the most of your time in the ‘flourishing’ city of Florence? GoWithGuide offers the chance to connect with a local travel expert who can organise a bespoke itinerary for you! From the influence of the Medicis to a tour of the Uffizzi, religious landmarks, Art, food and even a trip around the city on a vintage motorcycle, you’re sure to find a travel experience to make your time in Italy incredible!
SWIM & RELAX
The wonderful swimming pool at Villa Rucellai
Dive in to Villa Rucellai’s inviting pool to cool off!
This is one of the best pools I’ve enjoyed in a historic hotel! Once a fish hatchery, the water is wonderfully deep. All signs of fish have long ago vanished, so you can get your lengths – tumble turns included! – without interruption in these sparkling turquoise waters!
Emerge from the water refreshed and ready to catch some sun in the nearby deckchairs. Matching tasselled umbrellas enhance the aesthetic and ensure the poolside offers a serene experience!
Pool side style
RESTAURANT
There is a delightful looking converted out-building opposite the pool, Villa Rucellai’s restaurant. This perhaps gives an almost ‘village life’ appeal to the grounds but unfortunately was closed on the day of my stay due to a National Holiday.
*Do check before making your booking!*
As an alternative, the staff offered the chance of a freshly prepared picnic dinner to take out at sunset and enjoy the gardens or little seating areas dotted about the gardens and olive grove of Villa Rucellai. However, they did not seem to know quite what the picnic consisted of, so I ended up going to the outskirts of Prato in search of a locals’ friendly little restaurant!
PENDOUR PRO-TIP
Don’t miss an opportunity to crash land back into the twenty-first-century by visiting the Centre for Contemporary Art in Prato! Designed by Italo Gamberini, this futuristic exhibition space has a wonderful permanent collection with over 1000 works of art dating from the 1960s to the present day (don’t miss the Julian Schnabel); an archive; library; bookshop and restaurant with regular temporary exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, film and installation.
If you don’t have a car rental you can simply order a taxi from reception for a few euros and enjoy a trip down to this vibrant and dynamic art hub!
The Breakfast Room at Villa Rucellai
I did of course sample the breakfast buffet which was rather more hearty than the usual Italian affair! Served in the airy morning room with a delightfully rustic feel, you may take your meal out to the Villa Balcony if (unlike me!) you get up early enough and take in the crisp blue skies.
Enjoy breakfast with a garden view!
Villa Rucellai also harvests and presses its own wonderful olive oil. Be sure to sample at breakfast time, poured over fresh breads, eggs and salad! If they have not run out and you have space in your luggage, you can even purchase a bottle to take home with you. . . . A little taste of the Villa’s sumptuous appeal!
A PALAtIAL P.S.
Admittedly, this incredible place to stay may need a little attention here and there – understandably a never ending task – but this in no way affects the queen-like quality of your stay!! The overall feel and spirit of the property is evidently well cared for by the Pique family, so as to ensure an exceptional and memorable stay of palatial proportions!