Wanderlust Archives -

Villa Rucellai, Italy

‘Casa da Signore
con torre a
modo di palagio’

(Gentleman’s House with tower in the fashion of a palace’)

AN ITALIAN WELCOME

Skip back to the 15th century and enjoy a night or more of Italian luxury at Villa Rucellai!

Through the gates and up the winding levels of the hillside this turreted mansion transports guests to the fuzzy realms of a sepia photograph.

That, or the lucid mirage of a creased and dog-eared watercolour study on the back pages of a European Grand Tour folio.

Draped in wisteria the large windows, chimney stack and sand-coloured walls are haloed by a rooftop belfry. Arranged in a rough ‘L’ shape the entrance is shielded from the strong summer sun.

Ferns and plants with curling leaves unfurl wabi sabi up the ancient stone staircase. A set of glass doors leads into the imposing vortex of the entrance hall. Akin to the honey-coloured hue of a beehive’s heart, a rustic gold warms and refreshes. Illuminated leaves of a lemon tree dance in piercing shafts of light as bands of white slide down in diagonals, contrasting the curving vaults of the historic ceiling high above the harpsichord and harp. These first impressions magically transport you to the vision of a bygone age.

Your time travelling expedition into this lair of Renaissance Italy is consummated with a fine Italian welcome. No photocopier or computer in sight, your details and passport number are manually entered by hand into a yellowing, deep bound ledger, seemingly from another world. Revel in the scratchy patience, the calligraphic loops of each letter inviting you deeper into this dream of decadence.

And in the spirit of oldy-world-y time keeping, be sure to note your arrival time as accurately as you can when you make your booking to ensure preparations are finished in your personal part of this palace!

CAMERA DA LETTO

Spacious and cooling rooms are ornately furnished with antique and traditional marquetry furniture. From the grandiose vanity tables enlayed with ormolu detailing to the chaise longue, the bedrooms sparkle with opulence and Italian charm. Magnificent looking-glasses will make you wish you had diamonds and Cinderella slippers for the leading role in a period film or mysterious novelette!

With no televisions to ruin the look and sense of escape from the 24/7 stream, even the wifi is a tad patchy so you can finally finish that chapter in your book or write postcards to tell your friends all about staying in a palacial hotel!

As the velvet of night begins to fall, the gentle sounds of the water jets outside merge with the soft ambient lighting, a stately setting for sweet slumber!

EXPLORE THE ROOMS & GROUNDS

The open space of the entrance hall contrasts with the decadence of Villa Rucellai’s lounge. From the chandeliers above to the carpets below, there is a feast for the eyes!

Gasp in wonder at treasures from days gone by. Framed engravings and watercolours all add a personal, human element to the opulent finery. Intaglio prints and limited edition portraits all tell stories of Italian life and culture.

Help yourself to a drink from the mini-fridge honesty bar!

Sip as you slip outside to sit on the historic balcony and admire the views framed by the ancient stone archways. Feel like a duke or duchess from long ago as you survey the rolling hills stretching into the distance. Under blue skies this reverie into a bygone age is broken only by the rattle of a passing train in the distance beyond the proud, sentinel Cyprus trees.

Take a stroll through the gardens, admiring the Del Tovaglia coat of arms still displayed above the door on the southern facade. Elegant statues intersperse the blossoming roses and lemon trees, all thoughtfully arranged. Gateways and viewing platforms lend an essence of majesty and hint towards secrets of romantic rondez-vous as though fleeting memories.

SILENCIO

An elusive sense of soft, still silence eminates from Villa Rucellai. A sense of silence which rests in the creases of the curtain drapes and shifts with the shadows, sweeping across one framed mezzotint to the next.

A sense of silence which hides in the backs of chairs and the arches of a stringless harp. A silence which follows the curves of the picturesque archways on the balcony before vanishing into the manicured landscape below.

PENDOUR PRO-TIP

Take the bus into Firenze for a further history boost! Staying a little further away from the city saves navigating so much traffic, and you can still enjoy the peace and quiet of the Italian countryside – the best of both worlds! Plus, you get to enjoy the view of the city, rather than just the views from within the city!

Flixbuses depart from Prato Piazzale Del Museo frequently throughout the day, it’s only a 15 minute ride into Florence! If you don’t have a car rental for this Park & Ride, take a taxi into Prato, or enjoy the hour and a half walk from the villa to the bus stop!

SWIM & RELAX

Dive in to Villa Rucellai’s inviting pool to cool off!

This is one of the best pools I’ve enjoyed in a historic hotel! Once a fish hatchery, the water is wonderfully deep. All signs of fish have long ago vanished, so you can get your lengths – tumble turns included! – without interruption in these sparkling turquoise waters!

Emerge from the water refreshed and ready to catch some sun in the nearby deckchairs. Matching tasselled umbrellas enhance the aesthetic and ensure the poolside offers a serene experience!

RESTAURANT

There is a delightful looking converted out-building opposite the pool, Villa Rucellai’s restaurant. This perhaps gives an almost ‘village life’ appeal to the grounds but unfortunately was closed on the day of my stay due to a National Holiday.

*Do check before making your booking!*

As an alternative, the staff offered the chance of a freshly prepared picnic dinner to take out at sunset and enjoy the gardens or little seating areas dotted about the gardens and olive grove of Villa Rucellai. However, they did not seem to know quite what the picnic consisted of, so I ended up going to the outskirts of Prato in search of a locals’ friendly little restaurant!

PENDOUR PRO-TIP

Don’t miss an opportunity to crash land back into the twenty-first-century by visiting the Centre for Contemporary Art in Prato! Designed by Italo Gamberini, this futuristic exhibition space has a wonderful permanent collection with over 1000 works of art dating from the 1960s to the present day (don’t miss the Julian Schnabel); an archive; library; bookshop and restaurant with regular temporary exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, film and installation.

If you don’t have a car rental you can simply order a taxi from reception for a few euros and enjoy a trip down to this vibrant and dynamic art hub!

I did of course sample the breakfast buffet which was rather more hearty than the usual Italian affair! Served in the airy morning room with a delightfully rustic feel, you may take your meal out to the Villa Balcony if (unlike me!) you get up early enough and take in the crisp blue skies.

Villa Rucellai also harvests and presses its own wonderful olive oil. Be sure to sample at breakfast time, poured over fresh breads, eggs and salad! If they have not run out and you have space in your luggage, you can even purchase a bottle to take home with you. . . . A little taste of the Villa’s sumptuous appeal!

A PALAtIAL P.S.

Admittedly, this incredible place to stay may need a little attention here and there – understandably a never ending task – but this in no way affects the queen-like quality of your stay!! The overall feel and spirit of the property is evidently well cared for by the Pique family, so as to ensure an exceptional and memorable stay of palatial proportions!

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ZAMAS HOTEL, TULUM, MEXICO

If you want to experience the real Tulum,

look no further than Zamas Hotel!

Conceived during a honeymoon romance, Zamas was one of the very first hotels upon these jungle shores. This oasis has welcomed musicians, writers, playwrights, bohemians and artists to its inspirational setting for the past 30 years. Models, techies, ocean-lovers and family groups in search of a peaceful yet chic getaway have all found their place in this luscious hideaway.

Still family-run today, guests return again and again to savour the warm hospitality and sunrise-style décor, easing into the laid-back beachy charm of this little stretch of paradise.

From the moment you step off the road and onto the path flecked with seashells, coral and a dusting of light golden sand, you will notice how Zamas – unlike so many newer developments – have maintained their natural coconut grove, the palms gently swaying above you in rhythm to the ocean shoreline just strides away. Feel the seclusion and tranquillity as they shade your escape to the Tulum of yesteryear – still very much alive!

With no high-risers and minimal use of concrete, Zama’s low density, eco-conscious array of unique beach front cabañas and hand-crafted palapas are a far cry from the recent block-shaped developments that provide a more contemporary experience akin to that of Cancun or Playa del Carmen.

The hip, wave-worn beach essence of Zamas Hotel not only ensures this boho boutique is the coolest waterside hangout in Tulum but provides a reminder of what it really means to come to as special a place as the Mayan Riviera.

Slowly sip your welcome drink as Abigail, Daniel and Fernando check your reservation and ensure you have everything you need. You are part of the Zamas family now! Luggage is whisked via wheelbarrow to your home from home – bordered by jungle plants and delicate bursts of hibiscus flowers.

Born from the twists and folds of natural driftwood and ancient jungle timber, each of the bungalows and cabañas radiate Swiss Family Robinson vibes – the ultimate get away from everyday life. Colourful stucco walls mix with playful tile mosaics in the traditional Mexican manner heightening that cast-away, avant-garde appeal.

This is a symbiosis with Nature. A chance to connect with the ocean and forest. All of the rooms are spacious yet highly intimate and each one a little different from the one next door. Feel cocooned in the Jungle Garden or Coconut Grove Bungalows, or revitalised from a night in the sea-sprayed beach front cabañas. (Wake up and start a dreamy day with a dip!) Stay for longer and try out different rooms to discover which is your personal taste and style!

Every room offers filtered water, a security safe and mosquito nets, spotless white towels and flannels to partner the crisp white sheets of the gloriously cosy beds. Want complete escape from interference of the outside world? The total absence of TV at Zamas is powerful, allowing you to devote every moment of your stay to ‘me’ or ‘us’ time.

Awaken to the glow of sunrise, a gradual crescendo through the soft flowing curtains and white veil of mosquito nets. Even the patterns of bed runners and hand weaved cushion covers compliment the hues of the morning light. Everything is carefully designed and chosen, from a soap rest ledge fashioned from sea-smoothed wood to inventive cupboard latches and curving shelves.

It’s the details that illustrate the love and care

the owners have for this retreat out of time.

Many of the rooms boast sun blushed balconies or shaded terraces, the perfect private space for your stretch routine, personal work-out sesh or pensive pre-desayuno café. Every room comes equipped with a kettle and generous stash of herbal teas, organic coffee and whitener, for a little ‘pick-me-up’ at any time of the day (or night!)

Restless sleeper? Star gazing is highly recommended from the timeless, round-backed Zamas chairs which characterise your exclusive outside space. You’ll notice how the celestial star-speckled heavens are that much more enchanting in Tulum.

Connect to high-speed Wi-Fi – yes, even in the jungle (!) – as each room has its own network, along with deeply cooling AC to help you acclimatise to the humidity during those hot-season dazes!

All of these modern amenities in no way detract from the originality of the Zamas vision. The thoughtfully orchestrated blend of natural materials still closely resembles the Tulum experience before the blitz of concrete construction, the authentic hippy groove has not yet been completely lost.

Shower with the windows open wide – there are no neighbours – only rustling jungle with the delightful call of birdsong. Lather Zama’s honey bee shower gel, shampoos and conditioner before softening your skin with the delightful lemon and lime moisturiser after a day hitting the waves (or tequila!).

Immaculately cleaned each day by the most attentive of staff, every grain of sand (you will get sand between your toes in Tulum – trust!) is swept, the bed smoothed and beautified for afternoon daydreams and heady siestas. . . .

Idle away the hours. . . . Relax and sway in one of the colourful hammocks outside your room. Feeling hungry? Then head over to the restaurant!

Fringed with greenery and a craggy outcrop, the open sides of the restaurant palapa not only woo the sea breezes, but offer exquisite, unforgettable ocean views. The Zamas restaurant is like no other.

From avo sourdough toast to yogurt and fresh fruit with Mexican honey, eggs your style to bottomless coffee and even zingy mimosas, Zamas is the place to start your day!

The soft silky sand floor of the restaurant holds sway – one of the last few remaining along these shores. You’ll feel oh so at home. Kick back your shoes and enjoy a blissful barefoot breakfast like a true contemporary cast away. You will barely wear shoes during your stay here!

With chill mellow music playing, the restaurant is the place to be seen with your newfound Tulum tan and the social hub of this tropical escape. Read a book; get to know fellow guests and compare notes on where to visit; chat with Zamas’ friendly staff (you’ll know them all by name by the end of your stay!); sip a freshly harvested coconut or take pics for your social profiles from Zamas’ iconic colourful tables and chairs.

With table footie and more seating inside, you can also brush up your Español from the multi-lingual library or sit in the cool shade of the bar, surrounded by mural paintings and impressive sea-combed finds.

Time changes at Zamas. Embrace the pace. Watch the clouds drift by and the waves roll in. Their mesmerising pull is hypnotic to the eye as you ponder your menu choice. With a range of curated cocktails (don’t miss the cayenne punch of Celosa), national beers, tequilas and mezcals, refreshing hibiscus and pineapple coolers, you’re spoilt for choice! Enjoy yours from the restaurant or from the cover of a beach palapa, just tip-toes away.

The crescent-shaped beach is a bit unusual and so special to this area, a real picture postcard. And last year home to 27 turtle nests with several hundred baby turtles starting their life here at Zamas. The restaurant’s sunrise-coloured chairs and shaggy grass roof look even more exotic when viewed across the azul surf. A few rocky patches mean it’s easiest to get in and out for a swim at the far end, before a popular spot where local families take to the waves and enjoy their well-deserved down time, meaning Zamas’ stretch of beach retains that all important true Tulum experience.

Plentiful loungers and chairs provide table space for that Happy Hour spritz (from 3 – 6 pm . . . why limit to one hour when you can have three?!) meaning you’ll never have to rush or reserve! Solely for the pleasure of hotel guests, you can take up your beachfront position for some serious swimming and waterside wonderment at your leisure.

And with the Mexi Divers school next door, its easy-peasy to organise a watery excursion to the reef or further a-wave if you’re feeling adventurous!

If you’re an early riser, don’t miss the breathtaking sunrise, the yellow red glow of the sun coming into focus on the blue horizon line across the water. Inspired by the Mayan word for sunrise, ‘Zamas’ reflects the excitement of another day in paradise through the choreography of colourful design.

Spot the timid iguanas, scurrying squirrels, graceful butterflies and chit-chacks. You may also be lucky to catch a twilight glimpse of a bat. From the restaurant, marvel at the acrobatic prowess of the local pelican squadrons, skilfully diving to catch their fish. Embrace the laid back jungle-y vibe and appreciate the simpler things in life.

And talking of fish… The afternoon Restaurant menu features hearty ceviche and a range of tacos, from super fresh pescado to small-farmed chicken. Spice up your Playa salad with a serving of Sikil Pak and tasty hummus with fresh jungle veg croutons of shapes, colours and tastes you can’t get back home!

Cool off from the afternoon heat in the Zamas swimming pool. Located in a quiet corner of the Jungle Garden, the pool is exclusively for hotel guests. Emerge from the cooling waters to the colourful poolside lined with murals, loungers and the classic z-chairs, all shaded by the sway of palms for a glass of punchy Celosa, with or without the Mezcal – both hit the spot! Order drinks and snacks poolside or in the cool and quiet of your room from the QR codes at each location.

Thinking of heading to Tulum as a large group? Or even hosting a beautiful beachside wedding? Are you looking for a photoshoot location? Consider booking out Casa Vallejo with its imaginative, unique design for your celebration or gathering. Featuring its own secluded garden, yoga space, and sumptuous en suite rooms, the Zamas villa comes with its own pool and is located just across the road from the beach. Step into this playfully decorated abode for a truly memorable experience!

And for a special event? Treat your clients, team or patrons to a bespoke soirée. The expertise of the event staff will ensure your entourage experience the magic of Zamas, whether you’re planning a full on party or have something else in mind. . .

Whatsapp is a favourite here at Zamas and so you can easily contact Reception for anything even if you’re out of phone signal in Mexico. Fancy a yoga class or deep tissue massage to get over your flight? Not sure about a ride back to the airport? The Front Desk can arrange all of this at your request, nothing is too much trouble.

With Alfonso to help guests cross the road should the traffic become a tad busy, there is also designated parking available for guests and restaurant patrons. The watchful gaze of the nighttime security staff means you can relax and unwind and not worry about a thing!

As the soothing dark of night comes to the fore, candles glint and glimmer on the Zamas restaurant tables in Victoriana style lanterns. Savour the delightful evening flavours freshly prepared by the restaurant team.

The romantic hot spot for an ocean view dinner, your every wish is accommodated by Zamas’ attentive waiting staff. Dine barefoot on a range of scrummy Mexican dishes under the moon and stars. From the pineapple jams to nutritious chaya, each ingredient is carefully sourced to bring guests the pure clean flavours of Mexico – and probably the creamiest guacamole in all of Quintana Roo! And if you like meat.. don’t miss the Dannyburger, honouring Zama’s founding father (now a grandfather!). Round it all off with another cheeky Tibble, or for something sweet there’s banana supreme, vanilla ice cream and divine chocolate cake, you’ve got to sample them all!

As the moon rises, and sleepiness sets in, laze beneath the palapa-crowned roof of your jungle or beach abode and drift off to sleep. You’ll be accompanied by the nocturnal symphony of the rustling trees and percussive beat of the rolling waves ‘till sunrise.

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Pendour Picks for Visiting Pushkar

One of the slightly more difficult places to get to in Rajasthan, Pushkar is definitely worth the journey!

This idyllic town is one of the most important sites of Hindu pilgrimage in India. Over 400 temples encircle the holy lake, or Sarovar, as delicate white ghats lead down to the water’s edge. The most important of these temples is the Brahma Temple, also known as Jagatpita Brahma Mandir. It is one of the very few Temples in India dedicated to the Creator-god Brahma.

The town’s laid back, alternative atmosphere caught Linda Bell’s curiosity – here are her top Pendour Picks for Pushkar!

EXPERIENCE THE SERENITY OF A BLESSING

There are 52 Ghats to choose from where you can receive a blessing in Pushkar though of course I’d advise going around the entire lake and visiting each one as it’s so beautiful!

You’ll have to leave your shoes at the top of the steps, or carry them with you when you enter the Ghats as this is holy ground. Feel connected to the Earth, to this sacred place through the very soles of your feet.

Just watch your footing – there are many steps, some quite sharp and of course like anywhere in India, there is rather a lot of cow dung! Although it’s an important religious symbol in India, it’s probably best to avoid pacing into… You may also find the steps and marble walkways get surprisingly warm underfoot due to the hot sun!

You will likely be approached by one of the priests who are watching out, often sitting crossed-legged nearby in meditation. Have a set figure in mind of how much each member of your group would like to donate in cash to the nearby Temple. In exchange for the donation, the priest will conduct a beautiful blessing. Incense, chanting and rejuvenation are all part of the rhythm at the water’s edge! You will be invited to cast flowers and/or rose petals into the lake. It’s a very uplifting and spiritual experience. I felt a deep connection to the sense of place, its timelessness and welcome to all who pass through, whatever they have faced in life.

Breathe in deeply and take a few moments to enjoy the tranquillity of the setting. The steep-sided, arid looking slopes of the Aravalli Mountain Range, sparsely coated in fuzzy-looking trees, punctuate the middle distance, the horizon blurs in a haze of heat and mist. The water slowly laps the decorated walkways and platforms of the ghats, whilst the spread of temples, havelis and bazaar-lined streets all radiate out from the glistening water, like a sparkling diamond set in a ring of opulent jewel stones.

The Sarovar is the beating heart of this majestic setting, where Lord Brahma is believed to have emerged from a lotus flower.

Be sure to secure your ‘Pushkar Pass’ from the Priest after your blessing. This fine piece of twine wrapped around your left wrist will enable you to wonder around the Ghats for the rest of your visit without need to make a further donation (unless you wish to of course!) I kept my bracelet for many months until it disintegrated, as I believed it would fulfil my wishes murmured at the edge of the lake!

Enjoy a tour of the nearest temple (if your donation was generous enough!) to take in its wonders and marvellous puff of incense. Study the shrines and deities in between posing for photographs for the local worshippers who may even present you with their babies to hold for the snap, it may all feel a little overwhelming, but everyone is very friendly – smile and say cheese!

SLEEP 'N STAY IN A HAVELI

There are many cheap places to stay, but for a little more, I’d recommend Inn Seventh Heaven all the way!

The moment you step off of the streets of Pushkar and into this beautifully restored, 100-year-old Haveli, you’ll feel instantly transported to another world! The welcoming courtyard, which is also the restaurant ‘Sixth Sense,’ is complete with a central fountain and provides adorable seating nooks half hidden behind palm leaves and ornate screens, where you can quietly read or contemplate all you have experienced in Rajasthan.

Climb up – towards the heavens! – for a relaxing night of slumber in one of the uniquely decorated cloud-white rooms. Incorporating hand carved antique chairs, tables fashioned out of wooden shutters and doors, the views from the windows are framed by gently floating drapes, all offering an elegant yet laid back Parisian-chic appeal.

We were lucky enough to stay in a room on the top floor with a huge glass ceiling dome, so we felt truly beneath the Heavens! The creeping plants growing over the green glass dome were silhouetted by the morning sunlight – all just magical and enchanting to wake up to along with the mesmerising sound of otherworldly singing coming from the Temple around the corner!

Just be sure to bolt your heavy wooden door at night and don’t leave your shoes out as monkeys do roam the town throughout the night!

This oasis is the perfect escape from the action and bustle of the vibrant bazaars. If you seek tranquillity and solace all at an affordable price, then Inn Seventh Heaven is your haven! Meanwhile, the Sixth Sense restaurant is a truly dreamy, sumptuous setting for the fragrant flavours of traditional Rajasthani cuisine!

Sit by the fountain and enjoy a Pushkar speciality – the delicate taste of rose lassi – it doesn’t get more romantic than this!

And don’t pass by on a massage in the downstairs suite, it’s more of a sports massage so you’ll feel extra loose for that yoga session in town!

ride the savitri mata ropeway

Go late afternoon, climb the 1100 steps to the top and take in the spectacular views before hitching a lift back down on the ropeway. Unfortunately, we left it a little too late to catch the Savitri Mata Temple at the top, but visiting this temple is a must, the setting is outstanding! Despite this we still took in the majestic bird’s eye view of Pushkar, surrounded by families of monkeys – just watch they don’t come too close and steal your bags!

There is a little café stall at the top, with water and soft drinks to quench your thirst on those hot days though it is a little more breezy at this elevated height than down at city level.

We really enjoyed the views on the way down, the sun set reflected in the lake far below. It was rather like being inside a Howard Hodgkin painting!

However, around half way down, the cart suddenly stopped for about 10-15 minutes. This was a little alarming, the other two couples in the cart did not seem to speak English and there was no way of knowing what had happened. We were left swinging in the wind for about 15 minutes until we started moving again. But I guess this just made the sunset soiree all the more memorable!

Note – there can sometimes be queues, make sure you’re prepared to wait a while when it gets busy!

feast in restaurants with unforgettable views

The town of Pushkar is a wonderful place to explore. There is so much to see and take in – but don’t forget to look up! Many restaurants are just a doorway at street level, with seating often sprayed out on balconies and viewing platforms on roofs, towers and terraces. It often feels like every elevated horizonal inch of Pushkar is put to good use so as to maximise the views of the lake and mountains. Start your day with a coffee and/or lassi overlooking the lake contemplating the beauty of this part of Rajasthan.

Many of the restaurants are vegan, you’d be hard pressed to find non-vegetarian ingredients, though you can take a trip to Ajmer if you need that protein kick . . . .

Pushkar is supposedly alcohol free too, but you’re sure to find a cheeky drink, served in the disguise of a thermos cup, if you ask around. . . .

The currys at the Laughing Buddha are excellent. However, be mindful if you order salad and pasta dishes (there is a Mediterranean style restaurant) but I’d recommend to stick to the traditional cuisine as the water used for cooking might not be drinkable.

There are lots of street food stalls too which are even cheaper than the restaurants! Go for the busiest ones, enjoy the flavours surrounded by the smells, cows, sights and sensuality of the streets lined with stalls and bejewelled by the town’s colourful inhabitants.

take in the magic of the bazaars

Shopping is a big thing here! You’ll find all sorts of mementos, souvenirs, gifts and treasures in the market stalls of Pushkar. It’s a wild and enchanting experience to roam the narrow streets lined with shops and stalls, overspilling with Rajasthani curios. From ornate padlocks to bangles, gracefully posed deities, handmade shoes and bags to even vinyl records the goodies are tantalising! Affordable saffron, quality Ashwagandha and ayurvedic treatments can also be found amongst the treasure troves of jewellery and statuettes!

The stall owners are always very friendly and not too pressurising, they tend to understand if you prefer to come back later, when it’s less hot or when you’ve had a chance to get more cash!

It may be a little risky using the ATMs in Pushkar, but there is a good bank. You’ll be shown inside and be able to sit while you wait, as obtaining cash can take a while!

Purchase anklets from the wondering women, parading through the streets with their wares. You’ll come across all sorts of characters, from beggars and priests to hippies and bohemians maintaining the Pushkar vibe from the 70s to the 20s!

visit the musuem in ajmer

If you want a little break from the sights and scenes of Pushkar, I’d recommended a trip beyond the hilltop pass, over Snake Mountain or Nag Parbat, a little further afield to Ajmer. Most likely you arrived by train in Ajmer in order to get to Pushkar, but there is much more than just a train station in this town!

You can book a taxi through your accommodation, or hail a Tuktuk for the journey of about 10km which takes roughly 30 – 40 minutes with stunning views of the Avalli Mountain Range. Distinctly Muslim in feel due to rule by Delhi Sultans since the late twelfth century, Ajmer is still an important site of Islamic pilgrimage today. Set around the Ana Sagar Lake, the city’s hustle and bustle is quite different in feel to Pushkar’s alternate vibe – it’s worth a trip to have a look around!

We prioritised visiting the museum in Ajmer and it’s a real surprise, a wonderful hidden gem! To start, we decided to savour the taste of a refreshing masala chai, served from a stall in the museum’s garden area. Of course this was served in wonderful handcrafted terracotta cups – no paper and plastic coated ones here!

(I wish I had taken a photo of all the masala chai stalls I came across in India, with their towers of charming terracotta vessels! They are so beautiful in their simplicity and of course tea tastes better when served like this!)

Energised from the sugary, cardamom-infused elixir, we entered the museum and proceeded to the main courtyard repletely lined with upstanding cypress trees, echoing the uniformity of the surrounding pillars.

Commissioned by Emperor Akbar, with construction commencing in 1570, the museum not only holds an important position in Ajmer but in historic relations between India and Britain. Originally known as Akbari Fort, the complex honoured the Sufi Saint Khwaja Moin-ud-din Christi.

Within the honey coloured Garden pavilion is a display of mannequins, depicting Sir Thomas Roe in a tricorne hat and curly wig presenting a charter to the regally dressed and magnificently serene Mughal Emperor Nur-ud-din Salim Jahangir (1605 – 1627). Roe was sent to India on behalf of James I of England to this very Pavilion in order to secure permission for the East India Company to enter into a trade agreement with India and to establish the first factories in Surat.

We proceeded to look at the collection of painted miniatures in the museum, then onto the artillery collection – and my what an assembly! There were cannons, bayonets and guns from Topider to Donali and warrior helmets, all impressively displayed. Swords from Kaatar to Farsa and Jagnol demonstrated Medieval weapons of warfare. A very enthusiastic museum guard wanted to name and explain every piece to us in broken English; he did not want us to miss anything. It wasn’t all quite up my street (hence no photos!) but his enthusiasm for our benefit was contagious!

Next we took in the spellbinding presence of some of the Museum’s incredible collection of over 600 stone sculptures. Arranged in an orderly manner along several corridors and in quiet, reflective alcoves with space to breathe between each one, an awe-inspired reverie commenced. Striking both familiar poses and unexpected meditative positions, it felt as though these pieces were living and breathing, quietly observing us through the centuries in complete stillness and eternal silence.

It would be impossible to not feel moved by the quiet majesty and enthralling calm of this assortment of carvings. The whole experience was mesmerising and completely unforgettable – a real highlight of my little adventure to India!

With so much to take in and learn, and so many stories about Rajasthan and the history of India, be sure to add the museum to your Pushkar list – don’t miss this special experience!

catch sight of the camels!

In search of a new way to get around? You’ll come across many camels in Pushkar and this part of Rajasthan! These magnificent creatures process around the wider backstreets of the town, drawing their passengers in decadent carriages, just like something from an Indian Miniature painting! Of course you can hitch a ride, or even go on an arranged camel safari, but it is just marvellous to see how these beasts are a staple of the Pushkar province.

If you’re lucky enough to visit Pushkar between October and November be sure to check out the Pushkar Camel Fair. This spectacular week long festival is held on the Kartic Moon of the Hindu Astrological calendar and also goes by the local names of Kartik Mela or Pushkar Ka Mela. According to mythology, this phase of the moon is also the time when Lord Brahma created the lake at Pushkar, the perfect reason to celebrate!

Camels from all over Rajasthan and even further afield are brought to the festival to be bought, sold and traded. Many are bedecked in pom-poms and colourful adornments for the beauty contests!

This spectacle brings about 40,000 visitors to the area so it’s advisable to book accommodation and transportation well in advance so as to join in with all the fun of the fair! With Ferris wheels, performances, fortune tellers, magic shows and music, bazaars of artisanal handiwork and food vendors all adding a buzzy flair to the festival, games of cricket and musical chairs offer a competitive edge! There is also the longest moustache competition! And wonderful opportunities for photographs. This fascinating tradition is certainly on my bucket list for my next trip to India!

pendour picks

Zamas Hotel, Tulum, Mexico

Linda Bell, 08-08-24

Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds

Linda Bell

Juntar Muntar

Linda Bell

Pink Paradise : A Quick Guide for Visiting Jaipur

Linda Bell

Instagram

30 - 04 - 2406 - 07 - 24

Juntar Muntar

No visit to Jaipur would be complete without stopping off to take in the perplexing, the impressive and almost surreal array of astronomical instruments that is Juntar Mantar!

Feel like a tiny Polly Pocket as you wind your way between towering walls of mathematical precision, silent discs of yellow stain and pink hued ramps stretching up to the heavens, akin to some kind of megalithic metropolis. Watch shadows gracefully progress around the markings etched on the world’s largest gnomon sundial, the Vrihat Samat Yantra, meaning ‘King of All Instruments,’ as the passage of the sun is measured in time. Stelae-like slabs of marble, hovering circles of bronze and inverted cupolas in the ground further the ethereal, prehistoric feel of the site.

Gaze in wonder at lofty edges of parabolas arcing upwards towards the celestial plains. Ponder at the staircase to nowhere, stretching upwards for a rendezvous with the cow that jumped over the moon . . .

The 19 instruments of Juntar Muntar mark the passage of the constellations in the dreamy night sky; the occurrence of eclipses and zeniths; the speed, motion and passing of time of the firmament’s astral beings.

Almost like the preserved remains of an ancient civilisation, it’s magical and intimidating all at the same time. A little like finding yourself in a Giant’s tool kit (if Giants do DIY that is?) or stumbling onto the film set of some sort of inter-galactic sci-fi blockbuster. . .

Despite this otherworldly appeal, Juntar Mantar was built between 1724 and 1734. Commissioned by Jai Singh II (r. 1699 – 1727) the instruments were used up until the 1940s to track Jaipur’s solar time and to calculate the passage of the solar system’s planets. During the British Raj the observatory fell into a state of decay until it was restored by Maharaja Madho Singh II in 1901.

Jaipur’s Juntar Muntar is the largest and best kept of Jai Singh II’s five observatories. The oldest one is in Delhi, (built between 1724 and 1727) with its impressive symmetrical Misra Yantra, shaped rather like a colossal fruit-bearing flower. The other observatories are located in Varanasi, Mathura and Ujjan, where the special instruments of bone white sit on the Tropic of Cancer, governing India’s time meridian.

Jaipur’s instruments are accurate to the naked eye to within three seconds, the colossal scale also serving as a reminder of the endless expanse of the heavens and the perplexing divinations used to record and measure something as transient as time. Be prepared to be amazed by the human vision and ingenuity of Rajasthan!

Although you may imagine running up a curving beam, climbing up the steep staircase or sliding down a pitched slope, (a playground for adults) the instruments make for better photo opportunities! Go at sunrise or sunset for spectacular Instagram pics with dynamic angles and light and shadow effects. Just don’t feel tempted to actually clamber over this magnificent UNESCO world heritage site!

Pendour Picks

Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds

Linda Bell

Pendour Picks For Visiting Pushkar

Linda Bell

City Palace Museum, Jaipur

Linda Bell

Pink Paradise : A Quick Guide For Visiting Jaipur

Linda Bell

Instagram

26 - 04 - 2428 - 07 - 24

Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds

'' I want something in which even if a piece of stone falls after 100 years, people will come here from all the world to see.''

– Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh

The Hawa Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’ was envisioned by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the grandson of Maharaja Sawai Jai Sing who founded the city of Jaipur. In 1799 Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh commissioned a well known architect of the time, Lal Chand Usta, to create a viewing gallery as a safe and respectable place for his wife, the Maharani Jaiwanta Bai, to observe the city’s ebb and flow whilst she and her ladies-in-waiting were confined to Purdah.

And oh want an elaborate display!

This ethereal masterpiece sits like a lotus flower about to bloom, enticing and seducing the onlooker or passer-by with its domed canopies, intricate filigree, sweeping balconies and cascade of arches. Tiny little windows with green wooden shutters add an element of mystery, opening and closing at random as visitors explore the inside of the Palace and look out to the city and crowds below them!

Blushed with the customary pink hue of Jaipur which symbolises hospitality, every inch of this façade is encrusted with finials, radiantly patterned jaali screens of chuna lime and showy niches, a marvellous mix of Rajputana and Mughal styles. Many of the lace-fine details are highlighted in white, suggestive of the delicate veins found in flower petals.

Towering five storeys high, this rosey-tinged opulence appears almost like an optical illusion from the ground as the top three layers taper in a pyramidal form to just one room thick. The Hawa Mahal is supposedly the world’s tallest building without a foundation and is built on a curve at an angle of 87 degrees for stability!

A devotee of Lord Krishna, Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh wished the palace to be reminiscent of the crown worn by Krishna. The peacock holds special symbolism in Indian Culture and Lord Krishna’s crown is often depicted as being fashioned from peacock feathers.

This ethereal, architectural wonder echoes the forms and patterns found in the outspread plumage of a peacock’s train – an extravagant and recognisable landmark very fitting for a Queen!

how to get there

Located near the Badi Chaupar Square, Hawal Mahal is about 12 km from Jaipur airport and 4.5km from the train station, just around the corner from the Jaipur City Palace.

Head across the square and up the staircases to the Café of the Winds opposite for unbeatable views of the palace’s delicate pink altitudes.

For an experience on the inside turn right from the square and then right again into the little alleyway to the side of the Palace. The main entrance gate is Anandpoli, surrounded by five sculptures of different gods. Follow through to the courtyard beyond where the tinkle of a water fountain sets the scene.

pause within whilst peeping out

Climb up through the layers of this building, each one like a different flavoured tier of an elaborate wedding cake!

There are few steps – the building is designed around a series of ramps. And why is this? Well the Queen and her friends wore bejewelled sarees laden with heavy materials, often weighting several kilograms. As such, the women could sit in carts and be wheeled around by attendants! Imagine racing from the very top, go-kart style down the ramps and to the ground floor – just the thought is enough to make you feel dizzy!

Pendour Pro-Tip

With gently sloping ramps all the way to the top, you can take your time on the climb up, progressing layer by layer, or run up to the top and take in all the details more slowly on your descent.

The ground floor, known as Sharad Mandir relates to the season of Autumn when many festivals would have been held. Just image the Palace filled with the sight of Jaipur’s most elegant women celebrating these Autumnal rites from the privacy of the Hawal Mahal.

Ascend to the second floor, the Ratan Mandir. The word Ratan translates to ‘precious stones’ and here there are a sprinkling of small stained glass windows capturing the glint of the sun and projecting beautiful colours onto the inside walls!

In contrast to the terracotta pink of the outside, the interior is a beautiful shade of light buttery yellow. Long galleries are punctuated by graceful arches, just crying out for a game of hide-and-seek!

And look out for the breathtaking doorways! These ornate portals are so mesmerising with their gorgeous patterns and materials, which often seem reminiscent of the colour, pattern, shape and even the iridescent sheen of peacock feathers, continuing the outdoor architectural theme in the palace’s interior.

Continue your ascent towards the summit of the building, passing the Vichitra Mandir, or ‘Unknown’ floor. These rooms, many of which are still closed off today, were reserved for the Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, who used this space as an escape from the City Palace, to retreat and compose poetry in honour of Lord Krishna.

From here the ramp begins to get a bit narrow and dark. We recommend wearing flat shoes to avoid slipping and to bring a torch if you’re a little claustrophobic, or nervous in the dark!

Prakash Mendir is the name of level four. You’re almost at the top! Prakash refers to light and on this level there are many balconies with spectacular views of Jaipur. Little cupola domes offer some shelter and photo opportunities (hopefully better than mine!)

You can just imagine the ladies coming up to this platform to take in the sunlight and enjoy the views!

As you go, don’t forget to pause and peek out of the some of the jharokhas – the little shuttered windows! There are 953 windows to peer out of, all offering cropped views of the cafes opposite and the frenzy of traffic below and the spread of the pink city, stretching out to the horizon.

The effective design of the building enabled the royal ladies to look out at the everyday street scenes and festivals of Jaipur whilst not being seen themselves. This enabled them to feel connected to the people of Jaipur whilst in Purdah. Of course the view now is all cars, mopeds, tuk-tuks and bicycles, but the Temple of the Winds still retains its elegant demeanour from a bygone age. The view may have dramatically changed since the eighteenth century, but the spirit of this place certainly has not!

It’s rather like being inside of a giant Christmas Advent Calendar, which window will open? Who, or what surprise will be concealed within? Yet this towering array of windows are full of the elegance and rhythm and hum that is only India!

Ahh the fifth floor! Finally the apex of the building known as ‘Hawa Mandir’ and for good reason – it’s breezy! Although often crowded at the top, it’s a good opportunity to take in the whole experience of this magnificent pink palace, before beginning the descent!

Pendour Pro-Tip

Hawa Mahal may be busy with locals, who might be just as interested in photographing you as they are the palace! Some may even hand you their young children and babies to hold for taking photos! Smile – you’re in India! (And probably all over someone’s facebook!)

easy breezy

The Hawa Mahal is on an east-west axis, matching the natural air flow in this area. The moving air picks up moisture from the main courtyard’s fountain, where it rises and the cooler air falls. Sweeping through the pierced little openings of the lacy screens and the shuttered windows, the air pressure drops, but the speed increases to generate a refreshing breeze. No need for electricity-hungry Air Conditioners here! Known as the Ventri effect, the idea supposedly came from the arches of the Khetri Mahal palace in Neemka Thana (also in Rajashan) where ramps enabled access to the top floors on horseback!

The jharokhas of the Hawa Mahal, which are different sizes and shapes on each floor can be closed and opened to control the movement of air depending on the weather and particular seasonal use of the room within.

The Hawa Mahal is not only a delectable feast for the eyes, but a climate responsive masterpiece that we can learn a lot from today in the context of the climate crisis. Perhaps we can use the principle of harnessing the movement of air to future proof the architecture of today? A hotel with 1,000 windows anyone?!

Even with a few cracks and the addition of structural supports here and there, the Hawa Mahal has certainly stood the test of time and remains a landmark masterpiece not just in Rajasthan, but in India. As Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh intended, the Hawa Mahal continues to draw in crowds from all over the world more than 100 years since its conception!

pendour pro-tip

There is a little hut in the main courtyard selling snacks and masala chai, with benches to sit on nearby, enjoy some refreshments as you enter or leave – or both(!) – in the presence of this magnificent wonder!

pendour Picks

City Palace Museum, Jaipur

Linda Bell

Pink Paradise : A Quick Guide for Visiting Jaipur

Linda Bell

Juntar Mantar

Linda Bell

Instagram

06 - 04 - 2406 - 07 - 24

City Palace Museum, Jaipur

The City Palace is a unique and special complex featuring temples, fountain-flecked courtyards, tranquil gardens, cafes, elegant restaurants and is the residence of Jaipur’s current royal family.

Artefacts, miniature paintings, riches and clothing owned by the Maharajas are housed within the Palace’s collections and delicately decorated pavilions. You will feel transported to a regal wonderland of unrivalled splendour as soon as you enter through one of the enchanting archways!

Petit Past - A Little History

In 1727 Kachwaha Clan ruler Jai Singh II (r. 1699 – 1744) moved residence from the Amber Fort to a newly built city 11km away due to a surge in population and an ensuing water shortage. He wanted to establish a new kind of city, open to diverse settlers and fruitful trade opportunities. Straddling the Ajmer-Agra highway, Jai Singh II implemented a grid-formation on this site for the new city of Jaipur.

Inspired by the formal qualities of Hindu architecture, the wide streets and grand crossroads enable easy navigation around the bustling crowds and brash traffic of today.

Under the thoughtful architectural design of Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, a well known architect of the time, the City Palace and much of the Old City of Jaipur were completed by 1732.

Arts, crafts and jewellery making flourished under the reign of Maharaja Sawai Pratap (r. 1778-1803) who commissioned the astonishing Hawal Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’, one of Jaipur’s – and India’s – most fabulously stylised and globally recognised masterpieces.

Jaipur became an important city for the East India Company of Great Britain in the early 19th century and during the British Raj in India Jaipur positioned itself as one of the leading autonomous ‘Princely’ states. The Maharajas and their ministers continued their reigns from the splendour of the City Palace.

It was during the reign of Maharaja Ram Singh that the city was painted in the iconic pink shade in honour of Prince Albert’s visit, the eldest son of Queen Victoria, and became known as the ‘Pink City’.

Following Independence and the Second World War, Jaipur City Palace welcomed its first public guests in 1952. At this time it was compulsory to wear a turban when visiting.

Today, the City Palace is a popular tourist attraction and remains an important cultural and historic landmark in Rajasthan. Turbans are no longer required – but be prepared to be blown away by the Romantic feel, pink-kissed tint and serene ambience of this stately setting!

How to Get There

The city palace is located between the markets Badi Chopar and Choto Chopar, about 12 km from Jaipur airport and 4.5 km from the railway station. Next door is the spectacular Juntar Mantar and the palace complex is just few minutes walk to the Hawal Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’.

Take a taxi or rickshaw, or walk through the alleyways off of the main Jhotwara Road.

There are three entrance gates, although the Tripolia Gate is reserved solely for the Royal family’s access. Visitors may enter the complex through either the Viendra Pol or Udai Pol gates.

The Viendra Pol is near the spectacular Juntar Muntar and leads visitors to the sun-filled Mubrak Mahal, or ‘Welcome Place’ courtyard, the heart of the Palace complex. Here, a buttery yellow haveli takes centre stage, surrounded by cute manicured gardens replete with fountains and flowers.

Meanwhile, the Udai Pol gate leads to a series of internal corridors before visitors emerge in the pinkburst haven of the Diwan-I-Khas.

This regal wonderland is a far far cry from the thunder of hectic life out on the streets of Jaipur beyond the Palace gates!

Mubarak mahal

The very heart of the City Palace complex, this sun-filled courtyard features gorgeous doors dotted around the edge, leading to the Museum Galleries, restaurant and Atelier.

Symmetrical from all four sides, the central Pavilion was constructed with overhanging balconies of white Andhi marble in 1900 as a sumptuous space for receiving guests.

Today the building houses offices, a library and the Textile gallery. Marvel at a rare Pashmina carpet from 1650 and the decadent outfits of some of Jaipur’s Maharajas. Also on view are the Polo cups and outfits belonging to Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II, who is a very accomplished sports player.

Due to the delicate nature of many of the artefacts in this pavilion, photography is not allowed.

Rajenda pol

Two beautiful elephants flank either side of this ornate gate. Replete with dainty, overhanging balconies and delicately carved details, it’s a delight to enter!

. . . . Follow through the wonderous marble and arrive at the courtyard of the Diwan-i-Khas beyond.

Diwan-i-khas

After passing through the Rajenda Pol Gate, or if you entered the palace complex via the Udai Pol gateway, you will come to the Diwan-i-khas, a pink infused courtyard with steps leading up to an ornately designed, open-sided hall.

This private audience gathering space has been the site of coronations and regal appearances, a place of living history and a fusion between private and public duty for the Maharajas. And no wonder, with its decadent feel and columns of stone pillars, this pavilion offers a captivating sense of grandeur and majesty. It’s sure to delight and enthral.

Elaborate chandeliers hold sway above the delicately scalloped archways and marble floor. Enveloped by pastel-coloured hues echoing the rosy pink of the city beyond the palace gates and frothy white highlights in the Mughal style, it’s a sublime treat for the eyes! Prance and dance your way through the chambers for those impressive photo opportunities!

Silver So Good

Marvel at the two Gangesjalis (Ganges water urns), the largest single pieces of silver in the world! Fashioned from 14,000 melted coins, with no soldering, the urns are 1.6 m high and weigh a whopping 340kg, even when empty. With a capacity of 400l, the urns were specially made for Madho Singh II who ruled from 1880 – 1920 for storing holy drinking water from the Ganges during his visit to Britain for the coronation of King Edward III.

And whilst you’re admiring the resplendent architecture of the Diwan-i-kas, and imagining you’re a member of the royal enterage, have your photo taken with the guards, hansomely dressed in their spotless white uniforms replete with golden buttons and contrasting scarlet turbans!

The clocktower

Stepping out of the audience hall and back (to the real world) don’t miss views of the Palace clocktower. A more recent addition to the Palace, the clock by Black and Murray and Co. of Culcutta was introduced in 1873 to an existing tower to bring a little European essence and perhaps increased punctuality to court proceedings!

Pritam Niwas chowk

Expect this courtyard to be busy, and for good reason!

Pritam Niwas Chowk translates to ‘Courtyard of the Beloved’ and it’s certainly a picture perfect view! Four deliciously adorned brass doors, known as Rhidi Sidhi Pol, grace this stately cloister. Grandiosely bedecked with complex patterns and alluring kaleidoscopic colours, it’s enough to make you wish you’d brought a watercolour painting set with you! Each of the stunning doors honours a Hindu god and one of the four seasons, determining which door the Maharaja uses to enter the Chandra Mahal, for example, entering by the Lotus, or Summer Gate during the Summer months.

Take care not to damage these wonderful doors so that many more visitors can enjoy this experience in future and to ensure Maharajas can continue this Seasonal tradition for many years to come!

chandra mahal

The Chandra Mahal, or ‘Moon’ Palace is the official residence of the Jaipur royal family. Split across seven levels, it offers further opportunities to experience fairy-tale splendour! Indeed, the ticket type to perceive all this inspiring architecture is called ‘Royal Splendour’ – be prepared for a considerably higher ticket price!

Visitors can take in the magical Sukh Niwas with its cool blue scrolling patterns across the walls and ceilings; the mirrored room of Rang Mandir and even the unforgettable views from the rooftop, where flags are flown to symbolise the presence of the Maharaja.

Custodians of the Royal Palace and its collections, Her Highness Rajmata Padmini Devi lives with her daughter, the Princess Diya Kumari in the Chandra Mahal. A member of parliament since 2019 and a business woman with a portfolio of exclusive hotels, the Princess Diya Kumari’s charitable Foundation strives to empower and engage deprived communities in Rajasthan. With a focus on sustainable programmes, the Foundation particularly supports the enrichment of women’s lives at a grass-roots level.

The Princess Diya Kumari is joined by her children, His Highness Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh of Jaipur, Princess Gauravi Kumari and His Highness Maharaja Lakshraj Prakash of Sirmour, who are all very much involved in a range of high profile charitable projects dedicated to improving the lives of the people of Rajasthan.

Whilst celebrating and maintaining the heritage of the City Palace, the Royal Family have also taken on projects such as the Baradari Restaurant and have developed a range of products in the Palace Atelier to engage local and traditional artisans and architects so as to future proof the legacy of the Palace.

Baradari REstaurant

Meaning ‘pavilion with 12 doors’ in Urdu, this renovated architectural gem boasts an impeccable dining scene, perfect for a palace!

This 2016 reimagining of a café area in a somewhat forgotten corner of the palace complex was designed by Delhi-based architect Ambrish Arora and his Studio Lotus team. They previously worked on the Mehrangarh fort and designed Raas Jodhpur boutique hotel; Baradari is no exception to their visionary approach.

Fringed with elegant water pools, a sculptural fountain cascade, palm fronds and decked out with stylish tables and chairs, this fine-dining destination is a place to meet-up and chill out from the heat during your visit!

Rest those aching feet weary from exploring the city upon the chevron inlay floor – a impressive modern twist on the traditional Rajasthani leheriya, a repetitive hand dyed stripy pattern – and a response to the craftmanship and architectural expression of the region.

Sip a cocktail as you take in the age-old masonry, once hidden behind layers of concrete plaster and now since painstakingly restored with use of traditional lime mortar. The organic nature of this centuries-old courtyard is truly celebrated by the reinterpretation of the palace’s historic legacy.

In addition to being accessible from within the place gates, Baradani also has an entrance direct from the city, so that it acts as a connective point between the palace and Jaipur. With seating for up to 200 and a separate lounge and private dining room, the whole space is centred around an impressive glass pavilion. Its contemporary, minimal lines open up the narrow courtyard visually whilst acting as a focal point anchoring the intimate dining alcoves along either side. The whole feel is dynamic and effortless, a seamless interplay between echoes of the past and design tastes of the present.

Marble and glass, brass and steel provide a classy sophisticated tone to the detailing, from the lighting to the door handles, complimenting and contrasting the rustic character and charm of the courtyard. Age old techniques meet contemporary design from the mirrored walls to the Thikri patterns found on the ceilings, archways, ceilings and age-worn niches.

Even the menu celebrates the traditional colours and flavours of Rajashtani cuisine, with an up-market, street food inspired spin. Where else can you sample Aloo Pyaz within one of India’s Palaces? Italian dishes and snacks can also be enjoyed for a kick of international seasoning, a reinvention of food, going hand in hand with how traditional craftmanship meets contemporary design in these surroundings.

Baradari is more than just a restaurant in a city attraction, it is a prime example of how a historical building and traditional craftmanship can be adapted for use in contemporary times.

pendour pro-tip

Stop by the palace atelier to purchase some exotic sarees, table linen, hand fans, cushions, perfume and even chests of drawers all made by hand using traditional techniques. The Queen is a strong supporter of hand made goods and keen to inspire her visitors with the handiwork of (especially the women) of Jaipur!

You may even be able to find your own Gangajali! The royal family have put their own contemporary spin on some of the products, with polo themed gifts and momentos and educational children’s books, toys and puzzles.

There is also a small bookshop selling postcards and a whole range of books on subjects ranging from arts and crafts, the history of Jaipur to food, yoga and the royal family. But if you’re travelling light, you may like to pick up a CD (Walkmans rule!) from the shop to remind you of your pink palace experience and time in Jaipur!

pendour picks

Pink Paradise : A Quick Guide for Visiting Jaipur

Linda Bell

Juntar Muntar

Linda Bell

Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds

Linda Bell

Instagram

08 - 10 - 2327 - 04 - 24

Ayur Ayur Ayurvedic Retreat

Negombo, Sri Lanka

Pendour Perfection * * * *

My partner and I felt so welcome by the hotel’s friendly staff, a cold drink and the gorgeous architecture!

Boasting a touch of Frank Lloyd Wright, an array of topaz blue pools provide a sense of serendipitous tranquility – you have arrived!

This watery affiliation reflects the overhanging balconies above, teeming with tropical ferns and floating walkway bridges connecting different sections of the hotel. Ayur Ayur is a real oasis from the frenzied rush of Columbo and Negumbo.

From your afternoon welcome drink to the laid back, leisurely breakfast, enjoy the symphonic sound of exotic bird song, staged from within the luscious gardens of carefully tended plants. It’s so calming and relaxing – easy to forget you are just off the main road of a big city!

The furniture in the bedroom is so tasteful, high quality towels and linens making a haven for sleep with the plaster textured walls and sensitive lighting. Great ceiling fans and AC, rooms come with delightful balconies and bathrooms are completed to a really high standard. Although in plastic, all guest toiletries are made of natural ingredients – no sulphates to be seen, in keeping with the Aryuvedic atmosphere!

I couldn’t resist and booked in a massage in the Spa and this is the real thing! And very well priced, so don’t deny yourself a well deserved and relaxing experience! The Spa doctor also made a special appointment to look at my partner’s hand which never really healed after surgery and offered an Aryuvedic treatment suggestion. This just goes to show the level of care, dedication and hospitality this hotel provides for its guests, and how much staff want to help you!

Yes… There are mosquitoes about. But this hotel is located along a historic canal, once used to transport spices and nuts to the port. It’s nice how the hotel reception and dining area open out onto the water, rather than just offering this fifteenth century feat of brilliant engineering their behind! Check out the framed drawings explaining this in the welcome area.

Left: Early History: King of Kotte Vera Parakramabahu III (1477 – 1495) constructed a network of canals connecting outlaying villages with Colombo and Negombo for the transport of produce such as cloves, cardamom, pepper and cinnamon to the seaport at Negombo.

Right: Middle History: Around the 18th century, the Dutch commenced the construction of a series of structures, dams and canals using and enhancing the original system of waterways forming a continuous line of waterways between ports and the remote section of territory.

It’s wonderful to savour a touch from the past, so beautifully complimenting the contemporary feel of the hotel. Besides, Ayur Ayur has a lovely boutique shop selling a natural citronella deterrent along with many other wonderful creams and soaps and staff carefully use smoke to manage the bugs. They are only really noticeable at dusk and early morning.

The railway runs parallel to the canal and it’s great fun to hear the trains rumbling past in the distance.

So much luscious greenery all around, look out for colourful butteries by the railway tracks!

All in all an absolutely wonderful experience – I just wish we could have stayed longer . . . can’t wait until next time!!

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Pink Paradise : A Quick Guide For Visiting Jaipur

Famed for its iconic shade of pink – everywhere you look all the buildings and walls are a rosy shade – the hustle and bustle of Jaipur has so much to offer!

From historic sites, ornate palaces, to trendy rooftop bars and museums brimming with treasures, Jaipur also provides endless eye-opening cultural encounters with its manic traffic, colourfully dressed crowds and exhuberently brash attitude to city life!

Breathe in the scent of wafting incense mixed with fiery curry in the city’s famed bazaars teeming with shiny souvenirs, marigold garlands and the occasional holy cow. The ancient and modern worlds collide in an intense whorl of spellbinding palaces, lavish city gates and dreamy havelis against a backdrop of cell phone towers, rubbish heaps, clamorous traffic, crumbing facades and calls of the fruit-cart sellers, wheeling their wares through the city’s hive-like hubbub . The whole experience is intense and perhaps a little alarming at first, though peace can be sought in quiet corners of the City’s palaces and landmark attractions.

places to Pause & perceive

There’s so much to take in just navigating and experiencing a city like Jaipur but if you want to do some sightseeing, here are our top Pendour Picks, a few suggestions to get you on your way, though we’re sure you’ll find your own special places too!

P) City Palace

P) Hawa Mahal

P) Juntar Muntar

P) Amber Palace

pendour pick - a place to perch :

Jai Niwas Garden Hotel

Pendour Preferred **

LOCATION:

3, Jalupura Scheme, Gopinath Marg, M.I. Road, JAIPUR – 302001

EMAIL: ch****@******as.com

It was a delight to stay in this clean and fresh-feeling family-run hotel. The staff are friendly and attentive and the whole place has a real homely charm.

The bedrooms have recently been remodelled with beautiful floor tiling, cosy beds and comfy chairs/furniture and new curtains. Great ceiling fans too! Most rooms face the garden or inner courtyard green, which is lovely to wake up to, sit out on the terrace and enjoy the open space.

Although simple in design, the garden really promotes a sense of peace and expansive space in this bustling city! The balconies and pretty railings are a real feature of this classic hotel, located not too far away from the train station.

Clean drinking water is provided from an outside tap with pitchers to fill and take to your room so no need for plastic water bottles to ruin the vibe. There is a very nice breakfast buffet, but don’t arrive too late as it gets busy!

The evening food in the hotel’s little restaurant is fantastic value! Very tasty, homecooked food and miles better than anywhere else nearby!

Pendour Passages - Getting around Jaipur :

Whilst the Jai Niwas Garden Hotel will happily arrange a trustworthy taxi service so you can explore this large bustling city, you may fancy your chances with Jaipur’s Tuktuks! The talented drivers can not only navigate this seemingly endless city, but the crazy driving style!

Hold on to your hat!

There are few rules of the road here; namely if you are ‘beeped!’ – get out of the way! Just be careful however, as the Tuktuk drivers will always take a detour to treat you to an unexpected visit at their cousin’s friend’s uncle’s sister’s husband’s silk clothing shop or fabric printing studio, where you will feel obliged to fill your boots (or perhaps travel case)! The drivers are of course enthusiastic to introduce you and show you their favourite places from elephant reserves to the best masala chai for a financial incentive, even if you’ve already agreed on a set route/itinerary. But hey. Their charismatic personalities and even the opportunity to get in the driving seat for a few moments all adds to the experience! When in India. . . .

Catching the train in India is like nothing else! Be prepared to have your photo taken again and again by crowds of locals as you await your ride! The train station is a real hub of life, with family groups picnicking, sleeping and lazing around on the platforms, people everywhere, laid out on blankets and patterned saris. Awaiting a train is a main event! Thankfully there are lots of snack stalls going up and down the platforms, and you can even grab a tasty curry plate on your travels as trains will sometimes stop for a while at different stations. The sounds, smells, noise, sweat and companionship is like nowhere else . . . intense, overwhelming and undescribable – so enjoy the ride as the scenery flashes by!!

The Pink Paradise

Despite its sometimes rough appearance and the crumbling nature of many of the buildings, the strangely beautiful dusty pink shade of Jaipur offers a mystical appeal. This uniform aesthetic is possibly part of a grand story dating back to 1876. Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh I wanted to put on a show for the visit of Queen Victoria’s son, Prince Albert of Wales (who later became Edward VII) to not only spruce the streets up a bit but to indicate the kindness and warmth of the people of Jaipur. He decreed the city to be painted this particular gorgeous hue of rosy pink which at the time symbolised hospitality and welcome. This led Prince Albert to affectionally refer to Jaipur as ‘The Pink City’ but if you look closely, you will notice some variations in all the pink, from teracotta, slightly orange shades to bronze-y browns!

(However, at least one leading historian has asserted that Jaipur was always pink to disguise the low quality of the materials used in its construction.)

In 1877 after the Queen of Jaipur declared she was a fan of the pink paradise the city had lately become, the Maharaja passed a law stating that any further buildings in Jaipur also had to be pink! This law has endured meaning that all new buildings, from temples to bazaars and accomadation are obliged to contribute to the city’s requisite pink haze! Love, friendship and hospitality all thread together in the unparalleled, iconic pinkness of Jaipur today.

Although Jai Niwas Hotel is a creamy, buttery shade of yellow and I’m not sure how this one slipped by? If you have any information on this, please add to the comments at the bottom!

Pendour Pro-tip :

Take a bar of soap with you! Many toilets/communal street sinks do not provide this, so I’d recommend you pack your own for any day trips and especially when on the train.

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‘Casa da Signore con torre a modo di palagio’

AN ITALIAN WELCOME

CAMERA DA LETTO

EXPLORE THE ROOMS & GROUNDS

SILENCIO

PENDOUR PRO-TIP

SWIM & RELAX

RESTAURANT

PENDOUR PRO-TIP

A PALAtIAL P.S.

PENDOUR PICKS

PENDOUR PICKS

EXPERIENCE THE SERENITY OF A BLESSING

SLEEP 'N STAY IN A HAVELI

ride the savitri mata ropeway

feast in restaurants with unforgettable views

take in the magic of the bazaars

visit the musuem in ajmer

catch sight of the camels!

pendour picks

Pendour Picks

how to get there

pause within whilst peeping out

Pendour Pro-Tip

Pendour Pro-Tip

easy breezy

pendour pro-tip

pendour Picks

Petit Past - A Little History

How to Get There

Mubarak mahal

Rajenda pol

Diwan-i-khas

Silver So Good

The clocktower

Pritam Niwas chowk

chandra mahal

Baradari REstaurant

pendour pro-tip

pendour picks

Pendour Perfection * * * *

places to Pause & perceive

pendour pick - a place to perch :

Pendour Preferred **

Pendour Passages - Getting around Jaipur :

The Pink Paradise

Pendour Pro-tip :

Pendour Picks

‘Casa da Signore
con torre a
modo di palagio’