Lakeside Life : Chapter I ‘Winter’ – A Stay at Fritton Lake -

What happens when a hotel stay becomes a story?

Quietly tucked away in the heart of Norfolk, Fritton Lake is more than a hotel – a place where nature, slow living and wellness come together. In this review lakeside swims, woodland walks and the warmth of a floating sauna unfold like wintery scenes in a short story, a seasonal tale of lakeside life.

AN ARRIVAL

The tree-lined driveway curved slowly through the parkland. The greying branches met overhead like the ribs of a cathedral ceiling. Their dark silhouettes stretched across the winter sky, silently criss-crossing like Nosferatu’s interlacing talons.

At the end of the avenue our travellers approached a brick building with its façade painted a welcome shade of yellow. For a moment she was reminded of time spent in Sintra, where brightly coloured walls gleam in luminous brilliance beneath a topaz blue sky.

Here, however, the warming earthy shade, touched with hints of ochre, perched solitarily and glowed softly through the pewter haze. It felt unexpectedly cheerful, a small burst of colour folded into the Norfolk Winter. A honeypot poised within the umber tones of the surrounding parkland.

Decorated as though a carnival top, with blue and white stripes climbing the wall and continuing across the oval ceiling above, swirling outward from a miniature chandelier, the entrance foyer was smaller than expected. Had they somehow stumbled into a chapter of Alice in Wonderland or a scene from Gene Wilder’s chocolate haven? Their arrival was starting to feel like the beginning of a story.

As they crossed ornate carpets breaking up the flagstone floors a relaxed and quietly chic atmosphere – very much muddy-boots and dogs-and-horses – greeted our travellers. Framed artworks from Fitzroy Modern Art Gallery paraded along the staircase and over the upright piano. Radiating a sense of exclusivity, these pieces presented an interesting contrast to the immense pike glistening inside a glass vitrine above the fireplace in the Billiards Room.

The Clubhouse at Fritton Lake felt really just that – a meeting space for those in the know. For nature lovers in search of the comforts that belonging to an exclusive group offers – minus all the fuss, rules and tight-lipped frowns judging apparent interlopers! A rather unique club-like feel!

As they checked in, our Fritton first timers received electronic wristbands, which they understood would give access through some of the gates further away on the estate. A friendly staff member answered their questions relating to parking, breakfast and exercise classes; all laid-back and centred around a casually good time. They were shown to their room upstairs decked out in a shade of sage green – as warm and comforting as could be on a chilly Tuesday in January.

Our guests glanced around the room, taking note of the TV set unobtrusively in the corner, thankful for its inconspicuous presence. A framed work on paper with emerald green leaf-like forms held the main wall, complementing its sage-hued shade.

Original features such as the Georgian sash window elegantly matched the snug-looking bed. A curiously arched door, nestled between two oak beams – again like something from Alice’s adventures, led the way to the en suite bathroom. Our guest smiled as she spied a heated towel rail and plenty of space to lay out an array of skin care saviours despite the estate’s offering of delightful, sweet-scented Bramley shower gel and hair-smoothing shampoo and conditioner. A pleasant surprise for any guest!

SENSATIONAL SHOPPING

Content with their room but realising they had forgotten to pack toothpaste, our travellers decided to explore. Arm in arm they strolled past little gardens bordered with cute box hedges to Valentine & Silver, the estate’s shop set in a renovated barn.

Browsing the products with gusto they were impressed by the range of minimally packaged soaps and toiletries, along with a delectable-looking selection of local wines. ‘If you were just dropped here, with only a swimsuit, it wouldn’t matter’ she thought, as everything – even beautifully knit scarves, jackets and socks – could be found lovingly presented next to sustainably made greeting cards, children’s hair ties, local honey, sweet treats and fresh milk, cheese and organic eggs.

A Secret Garden?

Gliding along the avenue of pleached trees she passed the tennis and badminton courts on either side. Presently, she approached what appeared to be a walled kitchen garden, now transformed into the pool and solarium. Rustic huts at either end of the 22 metre expanse of shimmering light blue appeared as though gingerbread cottages, replete with gabled roofs and even outdoor fireplaces for those chilly days! Within these biscuit barrel abodes were farmhouse style changing booths with welcome underfloor heating and large shower rooms.

First opting for a chance to check out the sauna, our guests proceeded through a gate in the kitchen garden wall. Taking in the expanding view they made note of how the grounds were carefully trimmed, weeded and tended for the Winter Season.

A bronze depicting a youth – arms outstretched to the heavens – inhabited the sloping lawn and was accompanied by a plaque referencing loss of life during the World Wars. Who had once lived and worked here? What were they like? Was their presence still felt in the biting cold and washed-out sky, just out of this youngster’s reach?

The wall of ancient red bricks revealed a shabby-chic lean-to on its other side. The glass panes mostly still in place, the potting shed structure lent itself to a make-believe of lovers’ clandestine meetings, rolling on an imaginary spool of black and white faded glamour. The old-worldly feel gave chance for whispers of the past to permeate. Could there have been a secret love affair or a Go-Between? A quaint idea.

Approaching the lake the temperature dropped a little more. As they stepped out onto the jetty a tablecloth of rippled velvet stretched as far as they could see to the left and right, the scene framed by the droops of weeping willows like veiled curtains. The curvature of the opposite bank meant they gazed across a crescent-shaped lake. A body of opaque fresh water, recalling the Radiohead album – A Moon-Shaped Pool.

Despite the occasional ripple of dark, peaty tones, the view seemed still and silent. A moment hanging unhurried and unspent. She imagined what the view must be like in Summer: the mottled tones of grey instead infused with green; the dark shade of the lake transformed to the Azul blue of the sky; blossoms along the banks; little ducklings of yellow fluff taking to the water.

A (Sunset) Sauna

Footlights led to a small black hut connected to the bank by a tip-toe bridge, almost like a scene from the Willow Pattern. Barefoot, she gingerly stepped along the path, wincing slightly at the sharp stones underfoot until she reached the bridge and finally across to her destination, the floating sauna!

A fiery orange glow from the crackling wood burner met our travellers as other Fritton Lake guests and club members shimmied along the bench to make space. Lower and upper benches made a cosy, sociable atmosphere. The heat rose. Skin feeling hot and dried, our nomads chatted with the other sauna sitters, learning about the park and hearing all about the cabins and what a treat it is to stay in one, nestled in the forest, or better still, to own one!

‘Yes, it’s a popular spot this’ remarked one of the ladies, before heading out. A moment later the sauna swayed as she dived deeply into the dark water. Aghast, the sauna sitters watched her through the large window, a single pane with unrivalled views of the silvery, lunar-like lake. The sauna rocked slightly until it regained its equilibrium. The woman re-entered the hut and the conversation, her dripping hair and skin quickly drying, glistening by the growing light of the fire.

The wood burner’s roaring heat made our nomad feel better, warmer, alive! It was like she had forgotten what it was to feel warm amid Winter’s foggy breath. Once she had plucked up the courage, she stepped out into the icy air, holding the steps as she lowered herself into the dark waters. First her feet, then allowing the water up to her calves and midriff. A deep breath. She closed her eyes. Shoulders in. Head under. Breathless. A burning sensation on her thighs. She bobbed back up for air, not letting go of the ladder. Elated, she took another deep breath and head under, once more. She had to prove to herself that she could do it!

Quickly up the steps and straight back into the desirable, welcome glow of the little floating sauna. Refreshed, feeling brazen despite the cold, emboldened by the fresh air and ready to test herself – Wim Hof style. After this initial timid scuttle into the peat-dark water, she decided to have another go. Jumping in from the ledge, just beside the window. Her body tensed as it hit the water, breaking the granite-hued surface. That sinking feeling, for a few moments the world seemed to stand still except for the descent. Then her head emerged back above the water line, a deep breath in. Clearing her fringe out of her eyes, she looked around the lake, taking in the darkening view, lifting her arms as though to see what would happen as the tingling sensation set in.

She rounded it off by blasting out a good twenty lengths or so back in the heated pool of the walled garden, steam vaporising off the pool’s teal top. She must always swim lengths in a pool. Wide, deep and long, the Fritton Lake swimming pool was perfect for front crawl drills, tumble turns and finally a cool-down. She completed her set lengths as the darkness grew around her.

Mist from the pool cast strange clouds in front of the wrought iron gate, the red brick wall now more brown in the twilight. Breathless, grasping hold of the pool ledge, she could hear the crows cawing in the distance. Completely alone she glanced at the open gate, its wrought iron design wreathed with tangled trees and spidery branches. The witching hour had begun.

EVENING GROWS

She drew back the plush curtains in the sage coloured room, closing out the receding light to prepare her outfit for dinner with friends who live close by. ‘Had I realised how wonderful it is to be here at Fritton Lake, I would have certainly tried the food in the pub’s dining room. But this treat will have to wait until a summer visit!’

Following an enjoyable evening she was reminded of other excellent hotel experiences, too good for photos and words… places that have a distinct feeling, where you feel immediately at home though all is new and exciting and yet to be discovered. On reflection, she decided that Fritton Lake was a little like a place she once stayed in in the Dolomites, or at the venue of the wedding of the last decade, hosted in Oxfordshire. But with its chilled vibe and lake-life focus, this new discovery of Fritton, just two hours out of London, hits the top!

AND SO TO BED

Tucked into the cosy white bed she enjoyed a few more pages from her book, glanced through the local ‘Living In Suffolk’ magazine and finished sipping a chamomile tea from the Teapigs chest. A bedtime ritual enhanced with the soothing sound of the Roberts radio, breaking through the quiet fabric of the night. The swim, sauna and ripples on the lake. . . . The wild, cool air – scented with grass and moss – lingered outside the window where bunnies roamed in frosty velvet darkness under the fleeting clouds and star-spangled sky.

GOOD MORNING!

As our guests awoke they opted out of the breakfast offering, despite the occasional scent wafting up from the restaurant below and along the corridor. An empty belly was better for her plan – an exercise morning!

Following a strong cup of coffee fresh from the Kofra Koffee tin (no plastic here!) and brewed in the cafetière supplied – nice touch for a hotel! – she packed away her belongings to meet the required check-out time and headed over to the gym for a dance and body sculpt class. The gym was clean and orderly, the machines of a high-spec with aesthetics also in mind! You could work out to views of the parkland, whilst around the corner the open hall featured wall bars and mirrors.

A little apprehensive, the ecstatic instructor put everyone at ease and then the music started. Pumps and samba, box step and Riverdance – all to the riffs of well-known favourite beats. A fun-filled (if rather sweaty!) way to begin the day. A few other members and guests joined in, with barre fitness to round off the session, hoisting weights above whilst in plie and développé.

Following a little chat afterwards, saying farewell to the other members of the class was like saying goodbye to well-known friends. She decided to head back out to the lake and couldn’t resist another sauna session with two more lakeside plunges, each time a little bolder, despite the ominous pike flicking near the surface, whipped up in the arctic wind.

Today, the blackened water seemed reminiscent of a Norwegian Fjord, or perhaps Lemony Snicket’s Lake Lachrymose minus the leeches of course! The muted tones looked even harder in the cold, after the frost. Along the opposite bank pines dressed in furry green attire dwarfed the naked branches of the deciduous trees. A final few lengths in the pool saw our guest shower off in the beautifully heated gingerbread changing rooms before heading to the Clubhouse.

Here, from the comfort of an armchair she enjoyed a creamy bowl of celery soup beside the crackling fire. Now that’s a Winter’s morning well spent!

FAREWELL, FRITTON

With yoga classes, nature safaris and even foraging sessions there’s yet more to enjoy and experience at Fritton Lake. A world of its own, an idyllic kingdom blending relaxation with a special opportunity to get close and connect with nature. Whether through incorporating freshly harvested ingredients from the land in their tasty dishes, fresh coffee in the rooms or produce in the shop, Fritton Lake has achieved a balance of adventure and relaxed effortless making each stay charming and exclusive.

If only it wasn’t already time to go! Passing through St Olaves and surveying the sweeping vista of the Norfolk Broads – pale and quiet in the Winter light – our travellers promised they would return to Fritton Lake.

Somewhere behind them, beyond the fields and trees, lay the dark lake – still and brooding, wrapped in the hush of the Season. A place of misty swims, crackling fires and cold-water courage. One visit had revealed only a single mood of the place; surely this nature retreat would transform as the seasons turned?

She imagined the jetty warm beneath her feet as dragonflies skimmed the watery world; the pool filled with laughter and gardens with colourful blooms bordering the estate’s shop and ball courts. . . .

‘Yes!’ she said aloud: ‘Winter was atmospheric. Summer would be the perfect time to return and savour the keen hospitality, comfortable beds, fitness facilities and the joy of lakeside life’.

To be continued with Chapter II ‘Summer’, later in the year.