Stay In A Storybook Castle – A Review of Castello Valenzino, Umbria

Cosy up in a castle and idle away the hours in a unique hotel setting.

Remember that time you slept like Sleeping Beauty in turreted luxury? 

A photograph of Castello Valenzino with an olive tree in the foreground

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Whispers of Italian folklore intermingle with the ambience of an authentic stay within the walls of Castello Valenzino.

A gate near a curve on the road to San Giovanni del Pantano leads guests up to a grey hulk of ancient stone, set within a few acres of terraced gardens. Bees buzz, busied with the sweet scent of abundant lavender, whilst olive trees gracefully brush their ashen green foliage against the medieval walls in rhythm to the Umbrian breeze.

A photo of Castello Valenzino surrounded by trees in the sunshine

LA STORIA

Perched on the verdant hillside as though an illustration from Basile’s Pentamerone, Castello Valenzino seems to belong to a fairy tale set in some far-off land. It’s easy to imagine courtiers with pointed hats and bustling dresses prancing through the rooms, knights on horseback approaching from the nearby towns of Umberide and Assisi, bread baking in the immense stone fireplaces.

A stay at Castello Valenzino feels like stepping into a story set in the past. It captures the imagination, stirs the deepest romance and evokes the timelessness of Italian elegance.

CASTLE CHARACTER

Almost like a structural fortress, historical walls flank the Castello’s central tower to reveal an archaic past. Dating from the thirteenth century, early records indicate the castle was once a sacred site. Later documents point to Castello Valenzino as a noble residence for hunting trips. Today, the royal and the rustic converge through sympathetic restoration.

A photograph to show the central circular tower flanked by walls as part of Castello Valenzino

Renovated as a charming accommodation option, Castello Valenzino offers a mixture of independent apartments and rooms. Each chamber retains period furnishings to provide an authentic atmosphere replete with original features.  

Seeped in an air of aristocratic resonance, the castle still boasts exposed ceiling beams carved from the most ancient of trees. Thick walls of exposed stone along with steep staircases exhibit the architectural style of the medieval age. Arched doorways and narrow slit windows – just wide enough to shoot a bow and arrow from – testify to the castle’s once strategic identity. It’s like travelling back in time to another world!

A photograph of Castello Valenzino with a green hill in the background.

Even with all these incredible features from a bygone age, the Castello still caters for its contemporary guests with all twenty-first century expectations – electric lights, hot water and reasonably good Wifi – so even the most aspiring of knights can feel at home within these castle walls. Inviting beds with fresh linens and soft towels ensure comfort along with room fans and blankets for whichever season you visit.

Meanwhile, modern day indulgences include jacuzzi baths in several rooms for a touch more lux, a wine cellar for organised tastings and the benefit of a small kitchenette in a select number of suites – the perfect option should you wish to stay for longer as ‘Lord-and-Lady’ of the manor!

A photograph of the anteroom to the Torgiano Room at Castello Valenzino where there is a sofa.
A photograph of the anteroom to the Torgiano Room at Castello Valenzino where there is a sofa.

Whilst the larger suites offer even more character with their open fireplaces and private outdoor terraces, the double rooms are bigger than usually expected for such an ancient setting. The Torgiano Room opened out into a tasteful lounge, an entire suite with a sofa and TV room leading on to the bedroom. A spacious bathroom with ample shelving completed the set up with views overlooking the valley.

A photograph of a simple flower arrangement by the window at Castello Valenzino

The furniture is tastefully on cue in its stylish simplicity; it is evident that the whole site is impeccably clean and well maintained. Dried flowers placed in vases catch the eye, little offerings as though Medieval Morandi’s, echoing the artist’s gentle tones with the addition of sparing glints of crimson and ochre petals – coloured jewels in the castle’s holdings.

A photograph of a simple flower arrangement by the window at Castello Valenzino

Castello Valenzino presents historic allure and inklings of magical lore, induced in a world of relaxation, rest and rejuvenation. Fling open those narrow windows and breathe in the scented Italian air! Take in the glorious views of the rolling hills! Marvel at the blue sky dancing far above! Survey your kingdom as the sun sets lazily in the quiet of evening.  

A photograph of the sun shining on the castle walls.

Slip into slumber inside your castle room, secluded by the thick stone walls with history in their heart. Rise with the sound of birdsong and the hum of cicadas, refreshed and ready to take in the grandeur of the landscape and all that Umbria has to offer.

A photograph of the Torgiano Room at Castello Valenzino, showing the cosy bed and doorway leading to the bathroom.

A STATELY SETTING

Prance out into the Castello’s gardens. Seek shade under the little pergolas or parasols lining the swimming pool. Although small in stature, this square of blue sparkles like a topaz in a tiara under the Italian sun. Plunge in to cool off and refresh as you take in the Castello’s surrounding views. . . . 

A photograph of the Swimming pool at Castello Vanenzino with umbrellas and sun beds. The rolling hills and golden fields are visible in the background.

Golden fields of honeyed linen gracefully drape the hillside, wrapping its dells in their folds of wheat and corn. Luscious thick forests border this harvest, as though a ruff around a Venetian merchant’s neck. The depth and darkness of the glade hides mystery in umber tones. Could this have been King of Woody-Valley’s castle, father of the unhappy princess? 

A little stream runs in the darkness of the wooded hollow – as though running tears to fill a jug for awakening the beloved –  the Valanzina beck from which the castle receives its name.

A photograph of the landscape surrounding Castello Valenzino. Golden fields are fringed by dense forest.

BEYOND THE CASTLE WALLS

Castello Valenzino is the perfect base to unwind and enjoy exploring ‘The Green Heart of Italy’. A region famed for its vineyards, truffles, pilgrimage sites and an annual jazz festival, Umbria is the authentic alternative to more crowded destinations. Breathtaking views and warm hospitality along with the slower, more relaxed pace mean Umbria offers something a little different!

A photograph of Gubbio taken from the funicular up near the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo. The ancient town spreads out with its red tiled roofs.
A view of Gubbio from the funicular to the Basilica of Saint Ubaldo.

Assisi, Gubbio, Perugia and Montone. So many historic towns and villages sigh in unison with Castello Valenzino. Discover fine dining beneath terracotta tiles, fashion in full swing through the winding streets and Basilicas decked out in renaissance splendour. 

Umbria is the birthplace of St Francis of Assisi. With the UNESCO complex in nearby Assisi, this certainly helps to put Umbria on the map as a major centre for Christian pilgrimage and spirituality. Marvel at Cimabue’s masterpieces within the apse, spectacular examples of Byzantine Art. 

A photograph of the UNESCO site, the Basilica of Asissi. Plants fill the foreground whilst the tower stretches to the sky as visitors throng the road to the right, taking in the views and posing for photographs.
A view of the Basilica at Assisi

Eager for more?

For your fill of spectacular medieval art including icon paintings and exquisite predellas as well as special exhibitions, head to the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria. Housed in the beautiful Palazzo dei Priori, seat of the City Council since the Middle Ages, the GNU is the only Italian public building to house a national museum.

And oh what treasures await! 

A photograph of the interior of Nazionale dell’Umbria, with a clock in the centre of the low ceiling room, decorated with murals. Artefacts line the side in glass vitrines.
A view inside the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria

For adventure seekers Monti Sibillini National Park and Lake Trasimeno offer the chance to get close to wildlife whether hiking, biking or swimming.  

A photograph looking down on a view of Lake Trasimeno.
Looking down on a view of Lake Trasimeno.

From olive oil to Deruta ceramics and Montefalco linen, artisanal souvenirs reflecting Umbria’s traditional craftmanship, famed since the middle ages, can be found on almost every street corner. 

And for chocolate lovers, don’t miss Perugia! Europe’s largest festival dedicated to chocolate –  EuroChocolate – is held here every year, following the tradition of Lusia Spagnoli’s Baci Perugina – hazelnut treats inspired by Hayez’s painting ‘Il Bacio’ (The Kiss), complete with a lover’s message. 

Now that’s a contemporary Fairytale!  

A photograph of an assortment of vintage and historic Perugina chocolate tins in the GMU.
An assortment of Perugina chocolate tins in the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria

And if you fancy a personal tour to discover more of Umbria’s hidden gems, museums and historic sites, consider booking a knowlegable and multi-lingual local via Go With Guide. From photography to Vespa themed tours, Go With Guide‘s tour leaders present special opportunities to learn about the regional way of life in a fun and relaxed way, matching your personal needs and interests.

PENDOUR PRO-TIP

It is essential to hire a car, or moto, to reach Castello Valenzino. The location is quite isolated and this part of Umbria is very hilly! The nearest shops and restaurants are good 15 minutes drive away, so be prepared to navigate narrow streets – you can’t go wrong with a Fiat 500!

CASTLE COLAZIONE

A photograph of the banqueting room at Castello Valenzino. Tables with white cloths fill the room where a tapestry bearing a coat of arms rests on the exposed stone wall.

Breakfast is served early at Castello Valenzino and like many places in Italy, it is not a big meal! Fresh breads with butter and spreads along with croissants and fruit tarts are available, served with coffee and juice.

Enjoy colazione in the privacy of your suite or dine in the banqueting room, surrounded by tasteful tapestries, the elegant stonework a fair companion. Rough hewn walls and flagstone floors all add to the ambience of castle life!

A photograph of a tapestry bearing a coat of arms in red and gold.

STORIA ONIRICA

Feel like you’ve stepped back in time to a bygone age of damsels in distress, knights in shining armour and rural living. A stay at Castello Valenzino is a destination for sweet dreams in the Fairyland of the South. 

a photograph of an olive tree growing in the garden of CAstello Valenzino

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PENDOUR PICKS

A Review of Villa Rucellai, Italy

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WANDERLUST

Linda Bell

 

PENDOUR PERFECTION * * * * *

WANDERLUST

Linda Bell

Villa Rucellai, Italy

Image of Villa Rucellai with trees behind a shallow duckpond

‘Casa da Signore 
con torre a 
modo di palagio’

(Gentleman’s House with tower in the fashion of a palace’)

An image of the welcome sign to Villa Rucellai

AN ITALIAN WELCOME

Skip back to the 15th century and enjoy a night or more of Italian luxury at Villa Rucellai

Through the gates and up the winding levels of the hillside this turreted mansion transports guests to the fuzzy realms of a sepia photograph. 

That, or the lucid mirage of a creased and dog-eared watercolour study on the back pages of a European Grand Tour folio. 

Wisteria growing along the length of Villa Rucellai

Draped in wisteria the large windows, chimney stack and sand-coloured walls are haloed by a rooftop belfry. Arranged in a rough ‘L’ shape the entrance is shielded from the strong summer sun. 

Ferns and plants with curling leaves unfurl wabi sabi up the ancient stone staircase. A set of glass doors leads into the imposing vortex of the entrance hall. Akin to the honey-coloured hue of a beehive’s heart, a rustic gold warms and refreshes. Illuminated leaves of a lemon tree dance in piercing shafts of light as bands of white slide down in diagonals, contrasting the curving vaults of the historic ceiling high above the harpsichord and harp. These first impressions magically transport you to the vision of a bygone age. 

Image of a shaft of light shining on a small tree in the entrance hall of Villa Rucellai

Your time travelling expedition into this lair of Renaissance Italy is consummated with a fine Italian welcome. No photocopier or computer in sight, your details and passport number are manually entered by hand into a yellowing, deep bound ledger, seemingly from another world. Revel in the scratchy patience, the calligraphic loops of each letter inviting you deeper into this dream of decadence. 

Furnishings, including a couch, a harp and a potted plant in the entrance hall of Villa Rucellai

And in the spirit of oldy-world-y time keeping, be sure to note your arrival time as accurately as you can when you make your booking to ensure preparations are finished in your personal part of this palace!  

CAMERA DA LETTO

Spacious and cooling rooms are ornately furnished with antique and traditional marquetry furniture. From the grandiose vanity tables enlayed with ormolu detailing to the chaise longue, the bedrooms sparkle with opulence and Italian charm. Magnificent looking-glasses will make you wish you had diamonds and Cinderella slippers for the leading role in a period film or mysterious novelette! 

An image of the decorative mirrors in a bedroom of Villa Rucellai

With no televisions to ruin the look and sense of escape from the 24/7 stream, even the wifi is a tad patchy so you can finally finish that chapter in your book or write postcards to tell your friends all about staying in a palacial hotel! 

As the velvet of night begins to fall, the gentle sounds of the water jets outside merge with the soft ambient lighting, a stately setting for sweet slumber! 

EXPLORE THE ROOMS & GROUNDS

The open space of the entrance hall contrasts with the decadence of Villa Rucellai’s lounge. From the chandeliers above to the carpets below, there is a feast for the eyes! 

Gasp in wonder at treasures from days gone by. Framed engravings and watercolours all add a personal, human element to the opulent finery. Intaglio prints and limited edition portraits all tell stories of Italian life and culture. 

Help yourself to a drink from the mini-fridge honesty bar! 

Sip as you slip outside to sit on the historic balcony and admire the views framed by the ancient stone archways. Feel like a duke or duchess from long ago as you survey the rolling hills stretching into the distance. Under blue skies this reverie into a bygone age is broken only by the rattle of a passing train in the distance beyond the proud, sentinel Cyprus trees. 

Take a stroll through the gardens, admiring the Del Tovaglia coat of arms still displayed above the door on the southern facade. Elegant statues intersperse the blossoming roses and lemon trees, all thoughtfully arranged. Gateways and viewing platforms lend an essence of majesty and hint towards secrets of romantic rondez-vous as though fleeting memories.

Garden View
View of the Villa's Garden
Look out for statues adorning the garden's walkways

SILENCIO

An elusive sense of soft, still silence eminates from Villa Rucellai. A sense of silence which rests in the creases of the curtain drapes and shifts with the shadows, sweeping across one framed mezzotint to the next. 

A sense of silence which hides in the backs of chairs and the arches of a stringless harp. A silence which follows the curves of the picturesque archways on the balcony before vanishing into the manicured landscape below. 

PENDOUR PRO-TIP

Take the bus into Firenze for a further history boost! Staying a little further away from the city saves navigating so much traffic, and you can still enjoy the peace and quiet of the Italian countryside – the best of both worlds. Plus, you get to enjoy the view of the city, rather than just the views from within the city.

Flixbuses depart from Prato Piazzale Del Museo frequently throughout the day, it’s only a 15 minute ride into Florence. If you don’t have a car rental for the Park & Ride, take a taxi into Prato, or enjoy the hour and a half walk from the villa to the bus stop! 

Excited to make the most of your time in the ‘flourishing’ city of Florence? GoWithGuide offers the chance to connect with a local travel expert who can organise a bespoke itinerary for you! From the influence of the Medicis to a tour of the Uffizzi, religious landmarks, Art, food and even a trip around the city on a vintage motorcycle, you’re sure to find a travel experience to make your time in Italy incredible! 

SWIM & RELAX

The wonderful swimming pool at Villa Rucellai

Dive in to Villa Rucellai’s inviting pool to cool off! 

This is one of the best pools I’ve enjoyed in a historic hotel! Once a fish hatchery, the water is wonderfully deep. All signs of fish have vanished long ago, so you can get your lengths – tumble turns included! – without interruption in these sparkling turquoise waters! 

Emerge from the water refreshed and ready to catch some sun in the nearby deckchairs. Matching tasselled umbrellas enhance the aesthetic and ensure the poolside offers a serene experience.

Pool side style

RESTAURANT

There is a delightful looking converted out-building opposite the pool, Villa Rucellai’s restaurant. This perhaps gives an almost ‘village life’ appeal to the grounds but unfortunately was closed on the day of my stay due to a National Holiday. 

*Do check before making your booking!*

As an alternative, the staff offered the chance of a freshly prepared picnic dinner to take out at sunset and enjoy in the gardens or little seating areas dotted about the grounds and olive grove of Villa Rucellai. However, the staff did not seem to know quite what the picnic consisted of, so I ended up going to the outskirts of Prato in search of a locals’ friendly little restaurant! 

PENDOUR PRO-TIP

Don’t miss an opportunity to crash land back into the twenty-first-century by visiting the Centre for Contemporary Art in Prato! Designed by Italo Gamberini, this futuristic exhibition space has a wonderful permanent collection with over 1000 works of art dating from the 1960s to the present day (don’t miss the Julian Schnabel); an archive; library; bookshop and restaurant with regular temporary exhibitions of paintings, sculpture, film and installation.

If you don’t have a car rental you can simply order a taxi from reception for a few euros and enjoy a trip down to this vibrant and dynamic art hub! 

Installation view of Christine Lohr's solo exhibition, Prato Art Museum
The Breakfast Room at Villa Rucellai

I did of course sample the breakfast buffet which was rather more hearty than the usual Italian affair! Served in the airy morning room with a delightfully rustic feel, you may take your meal out to the Villa Balcony if (unlike me!) you get up early enough and take in the crisp blue skies. 

Enjoy breakfast with a garden view!

Villa Rucellai also harvests and presses its own wonderful olive oil. Be sure to sample at breakfast time, poured over fresh breads, eggs and salad! If they have not run out and you have space in your luggage, you can even purchase a bottle to take home with you. . . . A little taste of the Villa’s sumptuous appeal!  

A PALAtIAL P.S.

Admittedly, this incredible place to stay may need a little attention here and there – understandably a never ending task – but this in no way affects the queen-like quality of your stay!! The overall feel and spirit of the property is evidently well cared for by the Pique family, so as to ensure an exceptional and memorable stay of palatial proportions! 

Image of statue surrounded by shrubs looking down in the garden of Villa Rucellai

PENDOUR PICKS

An image of Steve Joy's painting 'Cimabue's Barbara Hepworth'

‘ ATCG ‘ – Artistry, Time, Colour and Gold

‘ S E A S O N S ‘ Exhibition at Maple Street Construct, Omaha, USA 

 

PENDOUR CULTURE

A painting by Steve Joy titled 'Garden of Forking Paths (After Borges)'

‘Into the Labyrinth’ : Steve Joy, solo exhibition ‘American Sublime’

Garden of the Zodiac Gallery, Omaha, USA  

 

PENDOUR CULTURE

Zamas Hotel, Tulum, Mexico

PENDOUR PERFECTION *****

 

WANDERLUST