Jaipur Archives -

Juntar Muntar

No visit to Jaipur would be complete without stopping off to take in the perplexing, the impressive and almost surreal array of astronomical instruments that is Juntar Mantar!

Feel like a tiny Polly Pocket as you wind your way between towering walls of mathematical precision, silent discs of yellow stain and pink hued ramps stretching up to the heavens, akin to some kind of megalithic metropolis. Watch shadows gracefully progress around the markings etched on the world’s largest gnomon sundial, the Vrihat Samat Yantra, meaning ‘King of All Instruments,’ as the passage of the sun is measured in time. Stelae-like slabs of marble, hovering circles of bronze and inverted cupolas in the ground further the ethereal, prehistoric feel of the site.

Gaze in wonder at lofty edges of parabolas arcing upwards towards the celestial plains. Ponder at the staircase to nowhere, stretching upwards for a rendezvous with the cow that jumped over the moon . . .

The 19 instruments of Juntar Muntar mark the passage of the constellations in the dreamy night sky; the occurrence of eclipses and zeniths; the speed, motion and passing of time of the firmament’s astral beings.

Almost like the preserved remains of an ancient civilisation, it’s magical and intimidating all at the same time. A little like finding yourself in a Giant’s tool kit (if Giants do DIY that is?) or stumbling onto the film set of some sort of inter-galactic sci-fi blockbuster. . .

Despite this otherworldly appeal, Juntar Mantar was built between 1724 and 1734. Commissioned by Jai Singh II (r. 1699 – 1727) the instruments were used up until the 1940s to track Jaipur’s solar time and to calculate the passage of the solar system’s planets. During the British Raj the observatory fell into a state of decay until it was restored by Maharaja Madho Singh II in 1901.

Jaipur’s Juntar Muntar is the largest and best kept of Jai Singh II’s five observatories. The oldest one is in Delhi, (built between 1724 and 1727) with its impressive symmetrical Misra Yantra, shaped rather like a colossal fruit-bearing flower. The other observatories are located in Varanasi, Mathura and Ujjan, where the special instruments of bone white sit on the Tropic of Cancer, governing India’s time meridian.

Jaipur’s instruments are accurate to the naked eye to within three seconds, the colossal scale also serving as a reminder of the endless expanse of the heavens and the perplexing divinations used to record and measure something as transient as time. Be prepared to be amazed by the human vision and ingenuity of Rajasthan!

Although you may imagine running up a curving beam, climbing up the steep staircase or sliding down a pitched slope, (a playground for adults) the instruments make for better photo opportunities! Go at sunrise or sunset for spectacular Instagram pics with dynamic angles and light and shadow effects. Just don’t feel tempted to actually clamber over this magnificent UNESCO world heritage site!

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Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds

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Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds

'' I want something in which even if a piece of stone falls after 100 years, people will come here from all the world to see.''

– Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh

The Hawa Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’ was envisioned by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the grandson of Maharaja Sawai Jai Sing who founded the city of Jaipur. In 1799 Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh commissioned a well known architect of the time, Lal Chand Usta, to create a viewing gallery as a safe and respectable place for his wife, the Maharani Jaiwanta Bai, to observe the city’s ebb and flow whilst she and her ladies-in-waiting were confined to Purdah.

And oh want an elaborate display!

This ethereal masterpiece sits like a lotus flower about to bloom, enticing and seducing the onlooker or passer-by with its domed canopies, intricate filigree, sweeping balconies and cascade of arches. Tiny little windows with green wooden shutters add an element of mystery, opening and closing at random as visitors explore the inside of the Palace and look out to the city and crowds below them!

Blushed with the customary pink hue of Jaipur which symbolises hospitality, every inch of this façade is encrusted with finials, radiantly patterned jaali screens of chuna lime and showy niches, a marvellous mix of Rajputana and Mughal styles. Many of the lace-fine details are highlighted in white, suggestive of the delicate veins found in flower petals.

Towering five storeys high, this rosey-tinged opulence appears almost like an optical illusion from the ground as the top three layers taper in a pyramidal form to just one room thick. The Hawa Mahal is supposedly the world’s tallest building without a foundation and is built on a curve at an angle of 87 degrees for stability!

A devotee of Lord Krishna, Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh wished the palace to be reminiscent of the crown worn by Krishna. The peacock holds special symbolism in Indian Culture and Lord Krishna’s crown is often depicted as being fashioned from peacock feathers.

This ethereal, architectural wonder echoes the forms and patterns found in the outspread plumage of a peacock’s train – an extravagant and recognisable landmark very fitting for a Queen!

how to get there

Located near the Badi Chaupar Square, Hawal Mahal is about 12 km from Jaipur airport and 4.5km from the train station, just around the corner from the Jaipur City Palace.

Head across the square and up the staircases to the Café of the Winds opposite for unbeatable views of the palace’s delicate pink altitudes.

For an experience on the inside turn right from the square and then right again into the little alleyway to the side of the Palace. The main entrance gate is Anandpoli, surrounded by five sculptures of different gods. Follow through to the courtyard beyond where the tinkle of a water fountain sets the scene.

pause within whilst peeping out

Climb up through the layers of this building, each one like a different flavoured tier of an elaborate wedding cake!

There are few steps – the building is designed around a series of ramps. And why is this? Well the Queen and her friends wore bejewelled sarees laden with heavy materials, often weighting several kilograms. As such, the women could sit in carts and be wheeled around by attendants! Imagine racing from the very top, go-kart style down the ramps and to the ground floor – just the thought is enough to make you feel dizzy!

Pendour Pro-Tip

With gently sloping ramps all the way to the top, you can take your time on the climb up, progressing layer by layer, or run up to the top and take in all the details more slowly on your descent.

The ground floor, known as Sharad Mandir relates to the season of Autumn when many festivals would have been held. Just image the Palace filled with the sight of Jaipur’s most elegant women celebrating these Autumnal rites from the privacy of the Hawal Mahal.

Ascend to the second floor, the Ratan Mandir. The word Ratan translates to ‘precious stones’ and here there are a sprinkling of small stained glass windows capturing the glint of the sun and projecting beautiful colours onto the inside walls!

In contrast to the terracotta pink of the outside, the interior is a beautiful shade of light buttery yellow. Long galleries are punctuated by graceful arches, just crying out for a game of hide-and-seek!

And look out for the breathtaking doorways! These ornate portals are so mesmerising with their gorgeous patterns and materials, which often seem reminiscent of the colour, pattern, shape and even the iridescent sheen of peacock feathers, continuing the outdoor architectural theme in the palace’s interior.

Continue your ascent towards the summit of the building, passing the Vichitra Mandir, or ‘Unknown’ floor. These rooms, many of which are still closed off today, were reserved for the Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, who used this space as an escape from the City Palace, to retreat and compose poetry in honour of Lord Krishna.

From here the ramp begins to get a bit narrow and dark. We recommend wearing flat shoes to avoid slipping and to bring a torch if you’re a little claustrophobic, or nervous in the dark!

Prakash Mendir is the name of level four. You’re almost at the top! Prakash refers to light and on this level there are many balconies with spectacular views of Jaipur. Little cupola domes offer some shelter and photo opportunities (hopefully better than mine!)

You can just imagine the ladies coming up to this platform to take in the sunlight and enjoy the views!

As you go, don’t forget to pause and peek out of the some of the jharokhas – the little shuttered windows! There are 953 windows to peer out of, all offering cropped views of the cafes opposite and the frenzy of traffic below and the spread of the pink city, stretching out to the horizon.

The effective design of the building enabled the royal ladies to look out at the everyday street scenes and festivals of Jaipur whilst not being seen themselves. This enabled them to feel connected to the people of Jaipur whilst in Purdah. Of course the view now is all cars, mopeds, tuk-tuks and bicycles, but the Temple of the Winds still retains its elegant demeanour from a bygone age. The view may have dramatically changed since the eighteenth century, but the spirit of this place certainly has not!

It’s rather like being inside of a giant Christmas Advent Calendar, which window will open? Who, or what surprise will be concealed within? Yet this towering array of windows are full of the elegance and rhythm and hum that is only India!

Ahh the fifth floor! Finally the apex of the building known as ‘Hawa Mandir’ and for good reason – it’s breezy! Although often crowded at the top, it’s a good opportunity to take in the whole experience of this magnificent pink palace, before beginning the descent!

Pendour Pro-Tip

Hawa Mahal may be busy with locals, who might be just as interested in photographing you as they are the palace! Some may even hand you their young children and babies to hold for taking photos! Smile – you’re in India! (And probably all over someone’s facebook!)

easy breezy

The Hawa Mahal is on an east-west axis, matching the natural air flow in this area. The moving air picks up moisture from the main courtyard’s fountain, where it rises and the cooler air falls. Sweeping through the pierced little openings of the lacy screens and the shuttered windows, the air pressure drops, but the speed increases to generate a refreshing breeze. No need for electricity-hungry Air Conditioners here! Known as the Ventri effect, the idea supposedly came from the arches of the Khetri Mahal palace in Neemka Thana (also in Rajashan) where ramps enabled access to the top floors on horseback!

The jharokhas of the Hawa Mahal, which are different sizes and shapes on each floor can be closed and opened to control the movement of air depending on the weather and particular seasonal use of the room within.

The Hawa Mahal is not only a delectable feast for the eyes, but a climate responsive masterpiece that we can learn a lot from today in the context of the climate crisis. Perhaps we can use the principle of harnessing the movement of air to future proof the architecture of today? A hotel with 1,000 windows anyone?!

Even with a few cracks and the addition of structural supports here and there, the Hawa Mahal has certainly stood the test of time and remains a landmark masterpiece not just in Rajasthan, but in India. As Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh intended, the Hawa Mahal continues to draw in crowds from all over the world more than 100 years since its conception!

pendour pro-tip

There is a little hut in the main courtyard selling snacks and masala chai, with benches to sit on nearby, enjoy some refreshments as you enter or leave – or both(!) – in the presence of this magnificent wonder!

pendour Picks

City Palace Museum, Jaipur

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City Palace Museum, Jaipur

The City Palace is a unique and special complex featuring temples, fountain-flecked courtyards, tranquil gardens, cafes, elegant restaurants and is the residence of Jaipur’s current royal family.

Artefacts, miniature paintings, riches and clothing owned by the Maharajas are housed within the Palace’s collections and delicately decorated pavilions. You will feel transported to a regal wonderland of unrivalled splendour as soon as you enter through one of the enchanting archways!

Petit Past - A Little History

In 1727 Kachwaha Clan ruler Jai Singh II (r. 1699 – 1744) moved residence from the Amber Fort to a newly built city 11km away due to a surge in population and an ensuing water shortage. He wanted to establish a new kind of city, open to diverse settlers and fruitful trade opportunities. Straddling the Ajmer-Agra highway, Jai Singh II implemented a grid-formation on this site for the new city of Jaipur.

Inspired by the formal qualities of Hindu architecture, the wide streets and grand crossroads enable easy navigation around the bustling crowds and brash traffic of today.

Under the thoughtful architectural design of Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, a well known architect of the time, the City Palace and much of the Old City of Jaipur were completed by 1732.

Arts, crafts and jewellery making flourished under the reign of Maharaja Sawai Pratap (r. 1778-1803) who commissioned the astonishing Hawal Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’, one of Jaipur’s – and India’s – most fabulously stylised and globally recognised masterpieces.

Jaipur became an important city for the East India Company of Great Britain in the early 19th century and during the British Raj in India Jaipur positioned itself as one of the leading autonomous ‘Princely’ states. The Maharajas and their ministers continued their reigns from the splendour of the City Palace.

It was during the reign of Maharaja Ram Singh that the city was painted in the iconic pink shade in honour of Prince Albert’s visit, the eldest son of Queen Victoria, and became known as the ‘Pink City’.

Following Independence and the Second World War, Jaipur City Palace welcomed its first public guests in 1952. At this time it was compulsory to wear a turban when visiting.

Today, the City Palace is a popular tourist attraction and remains an important cultural and historic landmark in Rajasthan. Turbans are no longer required – but be prepared to be blown away by the Romantic feel, pink-kissed tint and serene ambience of this stately setting!

How to Get There

The city palace is located between the markets Badi Chopar and Choto Chopar, about 12 km from Jaipur airport and 4.5 km from the railway station. Next door is the spectacular Juntar Mantar and the palace complex is just few minutes walk to the Hawal Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’.

Take a taxi or rickshaw, or walk through the alleyways off of the main Jhotwara Road.

There are three entrance gates, although the Tripolia Gate is reserved solely for the Royal family’s access. Visitors may enter the complex through either the Viendra Pol or Udai Pol gates.

The Viendra Pol is near the spectacular Juntar Muntar and leads visitors to the sun-filled Mubrak Mahal, or ‘Welcome Place’ courtyard, the heart of the Palace complex. Here, a buttery yellow haveli takes centre stage, surrounded by cute manicured gardens replete with fountains and flowers.

Meanwhile, the Udai Pol gate leads to a series of internal corridors before visitors emerge in the pinkburst haven of the Diwan-I-Khas.

This regal wonderland is a far far cry from the thunder of hectic life out on the streets of Jaipur beyond the Palace gates!

Mubarak mahal

The very heart of the City Palace complex, this sun-filled courtyard features gorgeous doors dotted around the edge, leading to the Museum Galleries, restaurant and Atelier.

Symmetrical from all four sides, the central Pavilion was constructed with overhanging balconies of white Andhi marble in 1900 as a sumptuous space for receiving guests.

Today the building houses offices, a library and the Textile gallery. Marvel at a rare Pashmina carpet from 1650 and the decadent outfits of some of Jaipur’s Maharajas. Also on view are the Polo cups and outfits belonging to Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II, who is a very accomplished sports player.

Due to the delicate nature of many of the artefacts in this pavilion, photography is not allowed.

Rajenda pol

Two beautiful elephants flank either side of this ornate gate. Replete with dainty, overhanging balconies and delicately carved details, it’s a delight to enter!

. . . . Follow through the wonderous marble and arrive at the courtyard of the Diwan-i-Khas beyond.

Diwan-i-khas

After passing through the Rajenda Pol Gate, or if you entered the palace complex via the Udai Pol gateway, you will come to the Diwan-i-khas, a pink infused courtyard with steps leading up to an ornately designed, open-sided hall.

This private audience gathering space has been the site of coronations and regal appearances, a place of living history and a fusion between private and public duty for the Maharajas. And no wonder, with its decadent feel and columns of stone pillars, this pavilion offers a captivating sense of grandeur and majesty. It’s sure to delight and enthral.

Elaborate chandeliers hold sway above the delicately scalloped archways and marble floor. Enveloped by pastel-coloured hues echoing the rosy pink of the city beyond the palace gates and frothy white highlights in the Mughal style, it’s a sublime treat for the eyes! Prance and dance your way through the chambers for those impressive photo opportunities!

Silver So Good

Marvel at the two Gangesjalis (Ganges water urns), the largest single pieces of silver in the world! Fashioned from 14,000 melted coins, with no soldering, the urns are 1.6 m high and weigh a whopping 340kg, even when empty. With a capacity of 400l, the urns were specially made for Madho Singh II who ruled from 1880 – 1920 for storing holy drinking water from the Ganges during his visit to Britain for the coronation of King Edward III.

And whilst you’re admiring the resplendent architecture of the Diwan-i-kas, and imagining you’re a member of the royal enterage, have your photo taken with the guards, hansomely dressed in their spotless white uniforms replete with golden buttons and contrasting scarlet turbans!

The clocktower

Stepping out of the audience hall and back (to the real world) don’t miss views of the Palace clocktower. A more recent addition to the Palace, the clock by Black and Murray and Co. of Culcutta was introduced in 1873 to an existing tower to bring a little European essence and perhaps increased punctuality to court proceedings!

Pritam Niwas chowk

Expect this courtyard to be busy, and for good reason!

Pritam Niwas Chowk translates to ‘Courtyard of the Beloved’ and it’s certainly a picture perfect view! Four deliciously adorned brass doors, known as Rhidi Sidhi Pol, grace this stately cloister. Grandiosely bedecked with complex patterns and alluring kaleidoscopic colours, it’s enough to make you wish you’d brought a watercolour painting set with you! Each of the stunning doors honours a Hindu god and one of the four seasons, determining which door the Maharaja uses to enter the Chandra Mahal, for example, entering by the Lotus, or Summer Gate during the Summer months.

Take care not to damage these wonderful doors so that many more visitors can enjoy this experience in future and to ensure Maharajas can continue this Seasonal tradition for many years to come!

chandra mahal

The Chandra Mahal, or ‘Moon’ Palace is the official residence of the Jaipur royal family. Split across seven levels, it offers further opportunities to experience fairy-tale splendour! Indeed, the ticket type to perceive all this inspiring architecture is called ‘Royal Splendour’ – be prepared for a considerably higher ticket price!

Visitors can take in the magical Sukh Niwas with its cool blue scrolling patterns across the walls and ceilings; the mirrored room of Rang Mandir and even the unforgettable views from the rooftop, where flags are flown to symbolise the presence of the Maharaja.

Custodians of the Royal Palace and its collections, Her Highness Rajmata Padmini Devi lives with her daughter, the Princess Diya Kumari in the Chandra Mahal. A member of parliament since 2019 and a business woman with a portfolio of exclusive hotels, the Princess Diya Kumari’s charitable Foundation strives to empower and engage deprived communities in Rajasthan. With a focus on sustainable programmes, the Foundation particularly supports the enrichment of women’s lives at a grass-roots level.

The Princess Diya Kumari is joined by her children, His Highness Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh of Jaipur, Princess Gauravi Kumari and His Highness Maharaja Lakshraj Prakash of Sirmour, who are all very much involved in a range of high profile charitable projects dedicated to improving the lives of the people of Rajasthan.

Whilst celebrating and maintaining the heritage of the City Palace, the Royal Family have also taken on projects such as the Baradari Restaurant and have developed a range of products in the Palace Atelier to engage local and traditional artisans and architects so as to future proof the legacy of the Palace.

Baradari REstaurant

Meaning ‘pavilion with 12 doors’ in Urdu, this renovated architectural gem boasts an impeccable dining scene, perfect for a palace!

This 2016 reimagining of a café area in a somewhat forgotten corner of the palace complex was designed by Delhi-based architect Ambrish Arora and his Studio Lotus team. They previously worked on the Mehrangarh fort and designed Raas Jodhpur boutique hotel; Baradari is no exception to their visionary approach.

Fringed with elegant water pools, a sculptural fountain cascade, palm fronds and decked out with stylish tables and chairs, this fine-dining destination is a place to meet-up and chill out from the heat during your visit!

Rest those aching feet weary from exploring the city upon the chevron inlay floor – a impressive modern twist on the traditional Rajasthani leheriya, a repetitive hand dyed stripy pattern – and a response to the craftmanship and architectural expression of the region.

Sip a cocktail as you take in the age-old masonry, once hidden behind layers of concrete plaster and now since painstakingly restored with use of traditional lime mortar. The organic nature of this centuries-old courtyard is truly celebrated by the reinterpretation of the palace’s historic legacy.

In addition to being accessible from within the place gates, Baradani also has an entrance direct from the city, so that it acts as a connective point between the palace and Jaipur. With seating for up to 200 and a separate lounge and private dining room, the whole space is centred around an impressive glass pavilion. Its contemporary, minimal lines open up the narrow courtyard visually whilst acting as a focal point anchoring the intimate dining alcoves along either side. The whole feel is dynamic and effortless, a seamless interplay between echoes of the past and design tastes of the present.

Marble and glass, brass and steel provide a classy sophisticated tone to the detailing, from the lighting to the door handles, complimenting and contrasting the rustic character and charm of the courtyard. Age old techniques meet contemporary design from the mirrored walls to the Thikri patterns found on the ceilings, archways, ceilings and age-worn niches.

Even the menu celebrates the traditional colours and flavours of Rajashtani cuisine, with an up-market, street food inspired spin. Where else can you sample Aloo Pyaz within one of India’s Palaces? Italian dishes and snacks can also be enjoyed for a kick of international seasoning, a reinvention of food, going hand in hand with how traditional craftmanship meets contemporary design in these surroundings.

Baradari is more than just a restaurant in a city attraction, it is a prime example of how a historical building and traditional craftmanship can be adapted for use in contemporary times.

pendour pro-tip

Stop by the palace atelier to purchase some exotic sarees, table linen, hand fans, cushions, perfume and even chests of drawers all made by hand using traditional techniques. The Queen is a strong supporter of hand made goods and keen to inspire her visitors with the handiwork of (especially the women) of Jaipur!

You may even be able to find your own Gangajali! The royal family have put their own contemporary spin on some of the products, with polo themed gifts and momentos and educational children’s books, toys and puzzles.

There is also a small bookshop selling postcards and a whole range of books on subjects ranging from arts and crafts, the history of Jaipur to food, yoga and the royal family. But if you’re travelling light, you may like to pick up a CD (Walkmans rule!) from the shop to remind you of your pink palace experience and time in Jaipur!

pendour picks

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Pink Paradise : A Quick Guide For Visiting Jaipur

Famed for its iconic shade of pink – everywhere you look all the buildings and walls are a rosy shade – the hustle and bustle of Jaipur has so much to offer!

From historic sites, ornate palaces, to trendy rooftop bars and museums brimming with treasures, Jaipur also provides endless eye-opening cultural encounters with its manic traffic, colourfully dressed crowds and exhuberently brash attitude to city life!

Breathe in the scent of wafting incense mixed with fiery curry in the city’s famed bazaars teeming with shiny souvenirs, marigold garlands and the occasional holy cow. The ancient and modern worlds collide in an intense whorl of spellbinding palaces, lavish city gates and dreamy havelis against a backdrop of cell phone towers, rubbish heaps, clamorous traffic, crumbing facades and calls of the fruit-cart sellers, wheeling their wares through the city’s hive-like hubbub . The whole experience is intense and perhaps a little alarming at first, though peace can be sought in quiet corners of the City’s palaces and landmark attractions.

places to Pause & perceive

There’s so much to take in just navigating and experiencing a city like Jaipur but if you want to do some sightseeing, here are our top Pendour Picks, a few suggestions to get you on your way, though we’re sure you’ll find your own special places too!

P) City Palace

P) Hawa Mahal

P) Juntar Muntar

P) Amber Palace

pendour pick - a place to perch :

Jai Niwas Garden Hotel

Pendour Preferred **

LOCATION:

3, Jalupura Scheme, Gopinath Marg, M.I. Road, JAIPUR – 302001

EMAIL: ch****@******as.com

It was a delight to stay in this clean and fresh-feeling family-run hotel. The staff are friendly and attentive and the whole place has a real homely charm.

The bedrooms have recently been remodelled with beautiful floor tiling, cosy beds and comfy chairs/furniture and new curtains. Great ceiling fans too! Most rooms face the garden or inner courtyard green, which is lovely to wake up to, sit out on the terrace and enjoy the open space.

Although simple in design, the garden really promotes a sense of peace and expansive space in this bustling city! The balconies and pretty railings are a real feature of this classic hotel, located not too far away from the train station.

Clean drinking water is provided from an outside tap with pitchers to fill and take to your room so no need for plastic water bottles to ruin the vibe. There is a very nice breakfast buffet, but don’t arrive too late as it gets busy!

The evening food in the hotel’s little restaurant is fantastic value! Very tasty, homecooked food and miles better than anywhere else nearby!

Pendour Passages - Getting around Jaipur :

Whilst the Jai Niwas Garden Hotel will happily arrange a trustworthy taxi service so you can explore this large bustling city, you may fancy your chances with Jaipur’s Tuktuks! The talented drivers can not only navigate this seemingly endless city, but the crazy driving style!

Hold on to your hat!

There are few rules of the road here; namely if you are ‘beeped!’ – get out of the way! Just be careful however, as the Tuktuk drivers will always take a detour to treat you to an unexpected visit at their cousin’s friend’s uncle’s sister’s husband’s silk clothing shop or fabric printing studio, where you will feel obliged to fill your boots (or perhaps travel case)! The drivers are of course enthusiastic to introduce you and show you their favourite places from elephant reserves to the best masala chai for a financial incentive, even if you’ve already agreed on a set route/itinerary. But hey. Their charismatic personalities and even the opportunity to get in the driving seat for a few moments all adds to the experience! When in India. . . .

Catching the train in India is like nothing else! Be prepared to have your photo taken again and again by crowds of locals as you await your ride! The train station is a real hub of life, with family groups picnicking, sleeping and lazing around on the platforms, people everywhere, laid out on blankets and patterned saris. Awaiting a train is a main event! Thankfully there are lots of snack stalls going up and down the platforms, and you can even grab a tasty curry plate on your travels as trains will sometimes stop for a while at different stations. The sounds, smells, noise, sweat and companionship is like nowhere else . . . intense, overwhelming and undescribable – so enjoy the ride as the scenery flashes by!!

The Pink Paradise

Despite its sometimes rough appearance and the crumbling nature of many of the buildings, the strangely beautiful dusty pink shade of Jaipur offers a mystical appeal. This uniform aesthetic is possibly part of a grand story dating back to 1876. Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh I wanted to put on a show for the visit of Queen Victoria’s son, Prince Albert of Wales (who later became Edward VII) to not only spruce the streets up a bit but to indicate the kindness and warmth of the people of Jaipur. He decreed the city to be painted this particular gorgeous hue of rosy pink which at the time symbolised hospitality and welcome. This led Prince Albert to affectionally refer to Jaipur as ‘The Pink City’ but if you look closely, you will notice some variations in all the pink, from teracotta, slightly orange shades to bronze-y browns!

(However, at least one leading historian has asserted that Jaipur was always pink to disguise the low quality of the materials used in its construction.)

In 1877 after the Queen of Jaipur declared she was a fan of the pink paradise the city had lately become, the Maharaja passed a law stating that any further buildings in Jaipur also had to be pink! This law has endured meaning that all new buildings, from temples to bazaars and accomadation are obliged to contribute to the city’s requisite pink haze! Love, friendship and hospitality all thread together in the unparalleled, iconic pinkness of Jaipur today.

Although Jai Niwas Hotel is a creamy, buttery shade of yellow and I’m not sure how this one slipped by? If you have any information on this, please add to the comments at the bottom!

Pendour Pro-tip :

Take a bar of soap with you! Many toilets/communal street sinks do not provide this, so I’d recommend you pack your own for any day trips and especially when on the train.

Pendour Picks

City Palace, Jaipur

Linda Bell, Updated 16-04-24

Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds

Linda Bell

Juntar Muntar

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