The City Palace is a unique and special complex featuring temples, fountain-flecked courtyards, tranquil gardens, cafes, elegant restaurants and is the residence of Jaipur’s current royal family.
Artefacts, miniature paintings, riches and clothing owned by the Maharajas are housed within the Palace’s collections and delicately decorated pavilions. You will feel transported to a regal wonderland of unrivalled splendour as soon as you enter through one of the enchanting archways!
Petit Past - A Little History
In 1727 Kachwaha Clan ruler Jai Singh II (r. 1699 – 1744) moved residence from the Amber Fort to a newly built city 11km away due to a surge in population and an ensuing water shortage. He wanted to establish a new kind of city, open to diverse settlers and fruitful trade opportunities. Straddling the Ajmer-Agra highway, Jai Singh II implemented a grid-formation on this site for the new city of Jaipur.
Inspired by the formal qualities of Hindu architecture, the wide streets and grand crossroads enable easy navigation around the bustling crowds and brash traffic of today.
Under the thoughtful architectural design of Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, a well known architect of the time, the City Palace and much of the Old City of Jaipur were completed by 1732.
Arts, crafts and jewellery making flourished under the reign of Maharaja Sawai Pratap (r. 1778-1803) who commissioned the astonishing Hawal Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’, one of Jaipur’s – and India’s – most fabulously stylised and globally recognised masterpieces.
Jaipur became an important city for the East India Company of Great Britain in the early 19th century and during the British Raj in India Jaipur positioned itself as one of the leading autonomous ‘Princely’ states. The Maharajas and their ministers continued their reigns from the splendour of the City Palace.
It was during the reign of Maharaja Ram Singh that the city was painted in the iconic pink shade in honour of Prince Albert’s visit, the eldest son of Queen Victoria, and became known as the ‘Pink City’.
Following Independence and the Second World War, Jaipur City Palace welcomed its first public guests in 1952. At this time it was compulsory to wear a turban when visiting.
Today, the City Palace is a popular tourist attraction and remains an important cultural and historic landmark in Rajasthan. Turbans are no longer required – but be prepared to be blown away by the Romantic feel, pink-kissed tint and serene ambience of this stately setting!
How to Get There
The city palace is located between the markets Badi Chopar and Choto Chopar, about 12 km from Jaipur airport and 4.5 km from the railway station. Next door is the spectacular Juntar Mantar and the palace complex is just few minutes walk to the Hawal Mahal, or ‘Palace of the Winds’.
Take a taxi or rickshaw, or walk through the alleyways off of the main Jhotwara Road.
There are three entrance gates, although the Tripolia Gate is reserved solely for the Royal family’s access. Visitors may enter the complex through either the Viendra Pol or Udai Pol gates.
The Viendra Pol is near the spectacular Juntar Muntar and leads visitors to the sun-filled Mubrak Mahal, or ‘Welcome Place’ courtyard, the heart of the Palace complex. Here, a buttery yellow haveli takes centre stage, surrounded by cute manicured gardens replete with fountains and flowers.
Meanwhile, the Udai Pol gate leads to a series of internal corridors before visitors emerge in the pinkburst haven of the Diwan-I-Khas.
This regal wonderland is a far far cry from the thunder of hectic life out on the streets of Jaipur beyond the Palace gates!
Mubarak mahal
The very heart of the City Palace complex, this sun-filled courtyard features gorgeous doors dotted around the edge, leading to the Museum Galleries, restaurant and Atelier.
Symmetrical from all four sides, the central Pavilion was constructed with overhanging balconies of white Andhi marble in 1900 as a sumptuous space for receiving guests.
Today the building houses offices, a library and the Textile gallery. Marvel at a rare Pashmina carpet from 1650 and the decadent outfits of some of Jaipur’s Maharajas. Also on view are the Polo cups and outfits belonging to Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II, who is a very accomplished sports player.
Due to the delicate nature of many of the artefacts in this pavilion, photography is not allowed.
Rajenda pol
Two beautiful elephants flank either side of this ornate gate. Replete with dainty, overhanging balconies and delicately carved details, it’s a delight to enter!
. . . . Follow through the wonderous marble and arrive at the courtyard of the Diwan-i-Khas beyond.
Diwan-i-khas
After passing through the Rajenda Pol Gate, or if you entered the palace complex via the Udai Pol gateway, you will come to the Diwan-i-khas, a pink infused courtyard with steps leading up to an ornately designed, open-sided hall.
This private audience gathering space has been the site of coronations and regal appearances, a place of living history and a fusion between private and public duty for the Maharajas. And no wonder, with its decadent feel and columns of stone pillars, this pavilion offers a captivating sense of grandeur and majesty. It’s sure to delight and enthral.
Elaborate chandeliers hold sway above the delicately scalloped archways and marble floor. Enveloped by pastel-coloured hues echoing the rosy pink of the city beyond the palace gates and frothy white highlights in the Mughal style, it’s a sublime treat for the eyes! Prance and dance your way through the chambers for those impressive photo opportunities!
Silver So Good
Marvel at the two Gangesjalis (Ganges water urns), the largest single pieces of silver in the world! Fashioned from 14,000 melted coins, with no soldering, the urns are 1.6 m high and weigh a whopping 340kg, even when empty. With a capacity of 400l, the urns were specially made for Madho Singh II who ruled from 1880 – 1920 for storing holy drinking water from the Ganges during his visit to Britain for the coronation of King Edward III.
And whilst you’re admiring the resplendent architecture of the Diwan-i-kas, and imagining you’re a member of the royal enterage, have your photo taken with the guards, hansomely dressed in their spotless white uniforms replete with golden buttons and contrasting scarlet turbans!
The clocktower
Stepping out of the audience hall and back (to the real world) don’t miss views of the Palace clocktower. A more recent addition to the Palace, the clock by Black and Murray and Co. of Culcutta was introduced in 1873 to an existing tower to bring a little European essence and perhaps increased punctuality to court proceedings!
Pritam Niwas chowk
Expect this courtyard to be busy, and for good reason!
Pritam Niwas Chowk translates to ‘Courtyard of the Beloved’ and it’s certainly a picture perfect view! Four deliciously adorned brass doors, known as Rhidi Sidhi Pol, grace this stately cloister. Grandiosely bedecked with complex patterns and alluring kaleidoscopic colours, it’s enough to make you wish you’d brought a watercolour painting set with you! Each of the stunning doors honours a Hindu god and one of the four seasons, determining which door the Maharaja uses to enter the Chandra Mahal, for example, entering by the Lotus, or Summer Gate during the Summer months.
Take care not to damage these wonderful doors so that many more visitors can enjoy this experience in future and to ensure Maharajas can continue this Seasonal tradition for many years to come!
chandra mahal
The Chandra Mahal, or ‘Moon’ Palace is the official residence of the Jaipur royal family. Split across seven levels, it offers further opportunities to experience fairy-tale splendour! Indeed, the ticket type to perceive all this inspiring architecture is called ‘Royal Splendour’ – be prepared for a considerably higher ticket price!
Visitors can take in the magical Sukh Niwas with its cool blue scrolling patterns across the walls and ceilings; the mirrored room of Rang Mandir and even the unforgettable views from the rooftop, where flags are flown to symbolise the presence of the Maharaja.
Custodians of the Royal Palace and its collections, Her Highness Rajmata Padmini Devi lives with her daughter, the Princess Diya Kumari in the Chandra Mahal. A member of parliament since 2019 and a business woman with a portfolio of exclusive hotels, the Princess Diya Kumari’s charitable Foundation strives to empower and engage deprived communities in Rajasthan. With a focus on sustainable programmes, the Foundation particularly supports the enrichment of women’s lives at a grass-roots level.
The Princess Diya Kumari is joined by her children, His Highness Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh of Jaipur, Princess Gauravi Kumari and His Highness Maharaja Lakshraj Prakash of Sirmour, who are all very much involved in a range of high profile charitable projects dedicated to improving the lives of the people of Rajasthan.
Whilst celebrating and maintaining the heritage of the City Palace, the Royal Family have also taken on projects such as the Baradari Restaurant and have developed a range of products in the Palace Atelier to engage local and traditional artisans and architects so as to future proof the legacy of the Palace.
Baradari REstaurant
Meaning ‘pavilion with 12 doors’ in Urdu, this renovated architectural gem boasts an impeccable dining scene, perfect for a palace!
This 2016 reimagining of a café area in a somewhat forgotten corner of the palace complex was designed by Delhi-based architect Ambrish Arora and his Studio Lotus team. They previously worked on the Mehrangarh fort and designed Raas Jodhpur boutique hotel; Baradari is no exception to their visionary approach.
Fringed with elegant water pools, a sculptural fountain cascade, palm fronds and decked out with stylish tables and chairs, this fine-dining destination is a place to meet-up and chill out from the heat during your visit!
Rest those aching feet weary from exploring the city upon the chevron inlay floor – a impressive modern twist on the traditional Rajasthani leheriya, a repetitive hand dyed stripy pattern – and a response to the craftmanship and architectural expression of the region.
Sip a cocktail as you take in the age-old masonry, once hidden behind layers of concrete plaster and now since painstakingly restored with use of traditional lime mortar. The organic nature of this centuries-old courtyard is truly celebrated by the reinterpretation of the palace’s historic legacy.
In addition to being accessible from within the place gates, Baradani also has an entrance direct from the city, so that it acts as a connective point between the palace and Jaipur. With seating for up to 200 and a separate lounge and private dining room, the whole space is centred around an impressive glass pavilion. Its contemporary, minimal lines open up the narrow courtyard visually whilst acting as a focal point anchoring the intimate dining alcoves along either side. The whole feel is dynamic and effortless, a seamless interplay between echoes of the past and design tastes of the present.
Marble and glass, brass and steel provide a classy sophisticated tone to the detailing, from the lighting to the door handles, complimenting and contrasting the rustic character and charm of the courtyard. Age old techniques meet contemporary design from the mirrored walls to the Thikri patterns found on the ceilings, archways, ceilings and age-worn niches.
Even the menu celebrates the traditional colours and flavours of Rajashtani cuisine, with an up-market, street food inspired spin. Where else can you sample Aloo Pyaz within one of India’s Palaces? Italian dishes and snacks can also be enjoyed for a kick of international seasoning, a reinvention of food, going hand in hand with how traditional craftmanship meets contemporary design in these surroundings.
Baradari is more than just a restaurant in a city attraction, it is a prime example of how a historical building and traditional craftmanship can be adapted for use in contemporary times.
pendour pro-tip
Stop by the palace atelier to purchase some exotic sarees, table linen, hand fans, cushions, perfume and even chests of drawers all made by hand using traditional techniques. The Queen is a strong supporter of hand made goods and keen to inspire her visitors with the handiwork of (especially the women) of Jaipur!
You may even be able to find your own Gangajali! The royal family have put their own contemporary spin on some of the products, with polo themed gifts and momentos and educational children’s books, toys and puzzles.
There is also a small bookshop selling postcards and a whole range of books on subjects ranging from arts and crafts, the history of Jaipur to food, yoga and the royal family. But if you’re travelling light, you may like to pick up a CD (Walkmans rule!) from the shop to remind you of your pink palace experience and time in Jaipur!
pendour picks
Linda Bell
Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds
Linda Bell