One of the slightly more difficult places to get to in Rajasthan, Pushkar is definitely worth the journey!
This idyllic town is one of the most important sites of Hindu pilgrimage in India. Over 400 temples encircle the holy lake, or Sarovar, as delicate white ghats lead down to the water’s edge. The most important of these temples is the Brahma Temple, also known as Jagatpita Brahma Mandir. It is one of the very few Temples in India dedicated to the Creator-god Brahma.
The town’s laid back, alternative atmosphere caught Linda Bell’s curiosity – here are her top Pendour Picks for Pushkar!
EXPERIENCE THE SERENITY OF A BLESSING
There are 52 Ghats to choose from where you can receive a blessing in Pushkar though of course I’d advise going around the entire lake and visiting each one as it’s so beautiful!
You’ll have to leave your shoes at the top of the steps, or carry them with you when you enter the Ghats as this is holy ground. Feel connected to the Earth, to this sacred place through the very soles of your feet.
Just watch your footing – there are many steps, some quite sharp and of course like anywhere in India, there is rather a lot of cow dung! Although it’s an important religious symbol in India, it’s probably best to avoid pacing into… You may also find the steps and marble walkways get surprisingly warm underfoot due to the hot sun!
You will likely be approached by one of the priests who are watching out, often sitting crossed-legged nearby in meditation. Have a set figure in mind of how much each member of your group would like to donate in cash to the nearby Temple. In exchange for the donation, the priest will conduct a beautiful blessing. Incense, chanting and rejuvenation are all part of the rhythm at the water’s edge! You will be invited to cast flowers and/or rose petals into the lake. It’s a very uplifting and spiritual experience. I felt a deep connection to the sense of place, its timelessness and welcome to all who pass through, whatever they have faced in life.
Breathe in deeply and take a few moments to enjoy the tranquillity of the setting. The steep-sided, arid looking slopes of the Aravalli Mountain Range, sparsely coated in fuzzy-looking trees, punctuate the middle distance, the horizon blurs in a haze of heat and mist. The water slowly laps the decorated walkways and platforms of the ghats, whilst the spread of temples, havelis and bazaar-lined streets all radiate out from the glistening water, like a sparkling diamond set in a ring of opulent jewel stones.
The Sarovar is the beating heart of this majestic setting, where Lord Brahma is believed to have emerged from a lotus flower.
Be sure to secure your ‘Pushkar Pass’ from the Priest after your blessing. This fine piece of twine wrapped around your left wrist will enable you to wonder around the Ghats for the rest of your visit without need to make a further donation (unless you wish to of course!) I kept my bracelet for many months until it disintegrated, as I believed it would fulfil my wishes murmured at the edge of the lake!
Enjoy a tour of the nearest temple (if your donation was generous enough!) to take in its wonders and marvellous puff of incense. Study the shrines and deities in between posing for photographs for the local worshippers who may even present you with their babies to hold for the snap, it may all feel a little overwhelming, but everyone is very friendly – smile and say cheese!
SLEEP 'N STAY IN A HAVELI
There are many cheap places to stay, but for a little more, I’d recommend Inn Seventh Heaven all the way!
The moment you step off of the streets of Pushkar and into this beautifully restored, 100-year-old Haveli, you’ll feel instantly transported to another world! The welcoming courtyard, which is also the restaurant ‘Sixth Sense,’ is complete with a central fountain and provides adorable seating nooks half hidden behind palm leaves and ornate screens, where you can quietly read or contemplate all you have experienced in Rajasthan.
Climb up – towards the heavens! – for a relaxing night of slumber in one of the uniquely decorated cloud-white rooms. Incorporating hand carved antique chairs, tables fashioned out of wooden shutters and doors, the views from the windows are framed by gently floating drapes, all offering an elegant yet laid back Parisian-chic appeal.
We were lucky enough to stay in a room on the top floor with a huge glass ceiling dome, so we felt truly beneath the Heavens! The creeping plants growing over the green glass dome were silhouetted by the morning sunlight – all just magical and enchanting to wake up to along with the mesmerising sound of otherworldly singing coming from the Temple around the corner!
Just be sure to bolt your heavy wooden door at night and don’t leave your shoes out as monkeys do roam the town throughout the night!
This oasis is the perfect escape from the action and bustle of the vibrant bazaars. If you seek tranquillity and solace all at an affordable price, then Inn Seventh Heaven is your haven! Meanwhile, the Sixth Sense restaurant is a truly dreamy, sumptuous setting for the fragrant flavours of traditional Rajasthani cuisine!
Sit by the fountain and enjoy a Pushkar speciality – the delicate taste of rose lassi – it doesn’t get more romantic than this!
And don’t pass by on a massage in the downstairs suite, it’s more of a sports massage so you’ll feel extra loose for that yoga session in town!
ride the savitri mata ropeway
Go late afternoon, climb the 1100 steps to the top and take in the spectacular views before hitching a lift back down on the ropeway. Unfortunately, we left it a little too late to catch the Savitri Mata Temple at the top, but visiting this temple is a must, the setting is outstanding! Despite this we still took in the majestic bird’s eye view of Pushkar, surrounded by families of monkeys – just watch they don’t come too close and steal your bags!
There is a little café stall at the top, with water and soft drinks to quench your thirst on those hot days though it is a little more breezy at this elevated height than down at city level.
We really enjoyed the views on the way down, the sun set reflected in the lake far below. It was rather like being inside a Howard Hodgkin painting!
However, around half way down, the cart suddenly stopped for about 10-15 minutes. This was a little alarming, the other two couples in the cart did not seem to speak English and there was no way of knowing what had happened. We were left swinging in the wind for about 15 minutes until we started moving again. But I guess this just made the sunset soiree all the more memorable!
Note – there can sometimes be queues, make sure you’re prepared to wait a while when it gets busy!
feast in restaurants with unforgettable views
The town of Pushkar is a wonderful place to explore. There is so much to see and take in – but don’t forget to look up! Many restaurants are just a doorway at street level, with seating often sprayed out on balconies and viewing platforms on roofs, towers and terraces. It often feels like every elevated horizonal inch of Pushkar is put to good use so as to maximise the views of the lake and mountains. Start your day with a coffee and/or lassi overlooking the lake contemplating the beauty of this part of Rajasthan.
Many of the restaurants are vegan, you’d be hard pressed to find non-vegetarian ingredients, though you can take a trip to Ajmer if you need that protein kick . . . .
Pushkar is supposedly alcohol free too, but you’re sure to find a cheeky drink, served in the disguise of a thermos cup, if you ask around. . . .
The currys at the Laughing Buddha are excellent. However, be mindful if you order salad and pasta dishes (there is a Mediterranean style restaurant) but I’d recommend to stick to the traditional cuisine as the water used for cooking might not be drinkable.
There are lots of street food stalls too which are even cheaper than the restaurants! Go for the busiest ones, enjoy the flavours surrounded by the smells, cows, sights and sensuality of the streets lined with stalls and bejewelled by the town’s colourful inhabitants.
take in the magic of the bazaars
Shopping is a big thing here! You’ll find all sorts of mementos, souvenirs, gifts and treasures in the market stalls of Pushkar. It’s a wild and enchanting experience to roam the narrow streets lined with shops and stalls, overspilling with Rajasthani curios. From ornate padlocks to bangles, gracefully posed deities, handmade shoes and bags to even vinyl records the goodies are tantalising! Affordable saffron, quality Ashwagandha and ayurvedic treatments can also be found amongst the treasure troves of jewellery and statuettes!
The stall owners are always very friendly and not too pressurising, they tend to understand if you prefer to come back later, when it’s less hot or when you’ve had a chance to get more cash!
It may be a little risky using the ATMs in Pushkar, but there is a good bank. You’ll be shown inside and be able to sit while you wait, as obtaining cash can take a while!
Purchase anklets from the wondering women, parading through the streets with their wares. You’ll come across all sorts of characters, from beggars and priests to hippies and bohemians maintaining the Pushkar vibe from the 70s to the 20s!
visit the musuem in ajmer
If you want a little break from the sights and scenes of Pushkar, I’d recommended a trip beyond the hilltop pass, over Snake Mountain or Nag Parbat, a little further afield to Ajmer. Most likely you arrived by train in Ajmer in order to get to Pushkar, but there is much more than just a train station in this town!
You can book a taxi through your accommodation, or hail a Tuktuk for the journey of about 10km which takes roughly 30 – 40 minutes with stunning views of the Avalli Mountain Range. Distinctly Muslim in feel due to rule by Delhi Sultans since the late twelfth century, Ajmer is still an important site of Islamic pilgrimage today. Set around the Ana Sagar Lake, the city’s hustle and bustle is quite different in feel to Pushkar’s alternate vibe – it’s worth a trip to have a look around!
We prioritised visiting the museum in Ajmer and it’s a real surprise, a wonderful hidden gem! To start, we decided to savour the taste of a refreshing masala chai, served from a stall in the museum’s garden area. Of course this was served in wonderful handcrafted terracotta cups – no paper and plastic coated ones here!
(I wish I had taken a photo of all the masala chai stalls I came across in India, with their towers of charming terracotta vessels! They are so beautiful in their simplicity and of course tea tastes better when served like this!)
Energised from the sugary, cardamom-infused elixir, we entered the museum and proceeded to the main courtyard repletely lined with upstanding cypress trees, echoing the uniformity of the surrounding pillars.
Commissioned by Emperor Akbar, with construction commencing in 1570, the museum not only holds an important position in Ajmer but in historic relations between India and Britain. Originally known as Akbari Fort, the complex honoured the Sufi Saint Khwaja Moin-ud-din Christi.
Within the honey coloured Garden pavilion is a display of mannequins, depicting Sir Thomas Roe in a tricorne hat and curly wig presenting a charter to the regally dressed and magnificently serene Mughal Emperor Nur-ud-din Salim Jahangir (1605 – 1627). Roe was sent to India on behalf of James I of England to this very Pavilion in order to secure permission for the East India Company to enter into a trade agreement with India and to establish the first factories in Surat.
We proceeded to look at the collection of painted miniatures in the museum, then onto the artillery collection – and my what an assembly! There were cannons, bayonets and guns from Topider to Donali and warrior helmets, all impressively displayed. Swords from Kaatar to Farsa and Jagnol demonstrated Medieval weapons of warfare. A very enthusiastic museum guard wanted to name and explain every piece to us in broken English; he did not want us to miss anything. It wasn’t all quite up my street (hence no photos!) but his enthusiasm for our benefit was contagious!
Next we took in the spellbinding presence of some of the Museum’s incredible collection of over 600 stone sculptures. Arranged in an orderly manner along several corridors and in quiet, reflective alcoves with space to breathe between each one, an awe-inspired reverie commenced. Striking both familiar poses and unexpected meditative positions, it felt as though these pieces were living and breathing, quietly observing us through the centuries in complete stillness and eternal silence.
It would be impossible to not feel moved by the quiet majesty and enthralling calm of this assortment of carvings. The whole experience was mesmerising and completely unforgettable – a real highlight of my little adventure to India!
With so much to take in and learn, and so many stories about Rajasthan and the history of India, be sure to add the museum to your Pushkar list – don’t miss this special experience!
catch sight of the camels!
In search of a new way to get around? You’ll come across many camels in Pushkar and this part of Rajasthan! These magnificent creatures process around the wider backstreets of the town, drawing their passengers in decadent carriages, just like something from an Indian Miniature painting! Of course you can hitch a ride, or even go on an arranged camel safari, but it is just marvellous to see how these beasts are a staple of the Pushkar province.
If you’re lucky enough to visit Pushkar between October and November be sure to check out the Pushkar Camel Fair. This spectacular week long festival is held on the Kartic Moon of the Hindu Astrological calendar and also goes by the local names of Kartik Mela or Pushkar Ka Mela. According to mythology, this phase of the moon is also the time when Lord Brahma created the lake at Pushkar, the perfect reason to celebrate!
Camels from all over Rajasthan and even further afield are brought to the festival to be bought, sold and traded. Many are bedecked in pom-poms and colourful adornments for the beauty contests!
This spectacle brings about 40,000 visitors to the area so it’s advisable to book accommodation and transportation well in advance so as to join in with all the fun of the fair! With Ferris wheels, performances, fortune tellers, magic shows and music, bazaars of artisanal handiwork and food vendors all adding a buzzy flair to the festival, games of cricket and musical chairs offer a competitive edge! There is also the longest moustache competition! And wonderful opportunities for photographs. This fascinating tradition is certainly on my bucket list for my next trip to India!
pendour picks
Linda Bell, 08-08-24
Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds
Linda Bell
Linda Bell
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